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i never go wot on this car, it is my dd, not my fun/toy. and i dont have it set super lean at the higher rpm,'s i know how to taper it off. ive got plenty of experience tuning the standalone in my 84 supra to know the trends. and no, i have a wideband in my 84 supra, but not in the gs. i watch the temp gauge. when its so lean at cruise that the temps start rising, then i know its time to upgrade the radiator. so far that hasnt happened. i went from ~19.5 to 22mpg when i initially leaned it out, though the fuel pump was acting as if it was dieing, turned out to be that hose pictured, and i think the fpr is in need of replacement as i dont think it is lowering the fuel pressure under high vacuum as it should. when i fill up tomorrow night on the way home ill reset the trip meter to check mileage again. i run from completely full to the gas light coming on then fill up to get the mileage. i drive about 44miles each way for work, so 88miles round trip daily. wont take long to get the results. prolly fill up again friday night on the way home, maybe sat morning.
trust me, when i get the thing running right, ill post the results. it was obviously too rich before. used to make the back bumper and exhaust tips black really quick. so far they arnt black yet. though i think i need to put new o2 sensors in as well. ones i threw on with the header where just used ones i had laying around.
the car has 298k as we speak. itll be rolling over 300k within a month easily. im just tackling all the little things that are adding up to crappy mileage. eventually they will all be done and i wont have to worry about it for a very long time.
oh and btw, if you hit a lean condition the engine light comes on. btdt. tested it to be sure. and i havent gone lean enough to trip it yet. just when i tested it to make sure id get the code.
I don't think the coolant temp. gauge is a good indication of your air fuel ratio. An exhaust temp gauge would be a much better indicator of whats happening in the combustion chamber. WOT is not the only time you need to know your A/F ratio anytime the motor is under a heavy load like climbing a hill, passing in traffic or pulling away from a stopped position.
I don't think the coolant temp. gauge is a good indication of your air fuel ratio. An exhaust temp gauge would be a much better indicator of whats happening in the combustion chamber. WOT is not the only time you need to know your A/F ratio anytime the motor is under a heavy load like climbing a hill, passing in traffic or pulling away from a stopped position.
i didnt say the temp quge would show the a/f ratio. i dont care what the a/f ratio is. if it isnt pinging, or causing the temp to rise, im in the clear. i have run my 84 at 17:1afr ON PURPOSE for cruise and it did not ping, it simply caused engine temps to climb due to the stock radiator not being up to the task. you are obsessed with tuning for power. i am not concerned about power at all. only fuel mileage. you may think your 3600+lb gs is a performance car. mine is not. I have actual performance cars for performance driving. this car is simply a means of transportation to and from work etc...
also, have you ever used an safc2 at all before? it has a low throttle/high throttle split. so when i press the gas past a certain throttle percentage(35% in my case is where i have it set), i am in an entirely different tuning range. all i am speaking of changing is the LOW throttle at cruise. I am not concerned with high throttle acceleration. that remains mostly unchanged. and again, even with the fuel i have pulled under high throttle, which is far less than i pulled at low throttle, i have no pinging. if i go too lean i will hear pinging/knocking. this isnt my first rodeo in tuning a car. my 84 supra will spin the DRAG RADIALS in 3rd gear from a roll. i know what im doing.
Your header and Mid pipe install looks really good!! Just wondering how your header is holding up and also wondering if you could take pic to show how close the header is to the AC lines? I am considering buying a E-Bay Supra Header (Since I can't find for specifically for the GS) and having it ceramic coated to cut down on the heat. After you made the new mid pipe have you notices any issues with ground clearance or extra rattles? Thanks in advance for any information!!
I will try to get a pic of that this weekend. I ordered the Rear caster arm bushings, inner control arm bushings and shock mount bushings and new tie rod ends. once they are in I will install them and then get my new tires mounted and another alignment. the rear tires are shot. it has been feeling like something in the rear would move when I back up in reverse. now I am certain of it as the rear tires have the belts showing on the inner and outer edges, but are still fully inflated. going with Goodyear's with low rolling resistance this time around. got 45-50k out of this last set of tires so not too bad i guess.
Very nicely done. I'm going to take a better look at this thread when I can. Those headers look just like mine, are they obx also? I just don't have the b pipe. And I dread the day that I have to replace the bushings. Is there a good place to find them at a decent price?
Well, got the rear inner control arm bushings, shock mount bushings, and caster arm bushings installed. Installed the 2 new outer tie rod ends, and the passenger side tie rod was fine, the problem is the lower ball joint. I ordered one and it will be in sometime this week. Hopefully I can get the new tires on next weekend and have it aligned.
these 3 bushings likely all would have pressed out with the c-clamp tool after cutting the lip off. I didn't realize they didn't have an outer metal sleeve like the other bushings I have replaced until after burning out the caster arm bushings. Anyhow, here are the pics.And to anyone that is going to change these bushings, get the thread all and nuts/washers etc.. that figs engineering suggests in the writeup, it makes it sooooooo much easier on the install part.
Well, got the passenger ball joint replaced. I checked the driver side again now that I'm not exhausted, and wouldn't ya know, its bad too. Damn it. No one has one in stock, so had to order it online and cant get my tires mounted now till next weekend. Oh well. It should handle like brand new once all this is done. I went ahead and got it popped loose from the control arm and the bolts broken loose so itll be an easy swap out when the new one arrives. Bother are beck arnley.
part 101-7355=driver side
part 101-7356=passenger side
Also, I took the pic that was requested of the header clearance. You can see that the AC lines are wrapped with exhaust wrap and that I put a nut on the mounting stud to act as a spacer to push off of the header. It is a TIGHT fit.
Well, been busy with other projects, but I got a spare cylinder head with cams awhile back. I plan to clean it up and port it, and then install it on my GS. I also got a spare set of valve covers and upper timing cover a couple weeks ago at the junkyard so I can clean them up and install them at the same time. I am contemplating sending the cams off to be reground, but haven't made up my mind yet. I still need to get a spare intake manifold setup so I can gasket match the lower, upper, y pipe etc.. so they can go on with the new head as well. Currently, the car is running great, turned 316k miles a week or so ago and still climbing fast since I drive ~500 miles a week.
Well, the front pump on my transmission started making a loud whine and the shifts got soft and I could feel the trans slipping. I have an Aristo tt auto trans leftover from the 2jzgte I bought for my 84 supra. Luckily I kept it as a spare so swapped it in this weekend. For some reason I couldn't find a write up to explain what is needed for the swap, so here it is. I finished the swap today and it drives great. Shifts firmer than stock, though I did not install a shift kit. Did not have time to wait for one to arrive so will order it later. No engine light, no weird issues, etc.. Car runs great with this trans.
You need the Aristo trans complete with the tq convertor and the flexplate. You will need a 30mm deep well socket, and a strong impact gun. You will need the front and rear trans seals and a new filter with gasket. The only place that had the correct rear seal was NAPA. Part Number: NOS 16531. The other one they had listed is apparently for the SC300 with the slip yoke extension housing and will not fit the Aristo trans.
Anyway, onto the swap.
Once you have the original trans out of your GS300, you will want to roll both of them upside down so the pan side is up. You will need to remove both pans, and then disconnect all of the electrical connectors from the solenoids on the valve bodies. The Aristo has 5, the GS300 has 4 and a cable that needs disconnected (it is self explanatory to remove from the valve body inside the trans and very easy. Forgot to take a pic of this part, may add one later). You will then need to remove the 17 bolts that hold the valve body to the transmission leaving the bolts in their spot( See valve body pic at the bottom of the post). Gently lift it out of each trans. You can then pull the wiring harnesses out o the transmissions.
Put the GS300 harness in the Aristo trans, and set the GS300 valve body in as well and bolt it down. The bolts need tightened to 80in/lbs. Then remove the plug for the cable port from the Aristo trans and install the line pressure cable from the GS300 trans. Make sure you hook it back onto the cam on the valve body as it was in your old trans. (again easy to do, I will try to find a pic of it later)
Reconnect the harness to the solenoids. Install the new filter and gasket and trans pan. Pull the tq convertor out and replace the front seal, then reinstall the convertor. Be sure it seats all the way in the trans. The flat spots with the threads for the tq convertor bolts should be inside of the bell housing. Use a straight edge on the bell housing and make sure these "pads" are not sticking out.
At this point, you will need to roll them back onto their pans. Use the 30mm socket on the impact gun and remove the nut holding each drive shaft flange. When the flanges are removed, remove the old rear seal on the Aristo trans and install the new one. (Napa Part Number: NOS 16531)Then install the GS300 flange onto the Aristo trans. Use the impact and socket to tighten it back down.
You will then need to remove the shift lever arm from the GS300 trans and install it onto the Aristo trans as the Aristo one is to short and bent differently. It is easy, just pull the clip out, then slide the pin out on both transmissions, then put the GS300 shift rod onto the Aristo, reinsert the pin and then the clip.
Lastly, you need to remove the heat shield, the temp sensor, and then the fitting for the front most trans line connection, and swap over the straight unit from the GS300 trans, otherwise your front trans line wont bolt back to the trans.
After this has been completed, remove the flexplate from the engine. Replace the rear main seal. BE CAREFULL! You do not want to push it in too far as it will leak. It needs to be flush. Clean the bolts and apply a small amount of thread sealer to them. Be sure to install the spacer plates in the correct location from the original flexplate with the Aristo flexplate, one goes between the flexplate and crank, the other between the flexplate and bolts. You must use the Aristo flexplate as it is a different bolt pattern for the tq converter then the GS300, and the splines in the trans for the tq converter are different, so you MUST use the Aristo converter with the Aristo trans.
Once the flexplate is on the engine, at this point, the rest of the install is the same as reinstalling a normal gs30 trans. I have some pics below with crucial items circled, along with some notes for reference.
Aristo trans
Note the check valve circled in Yellow. If you install the transgo "A340 HD2" shift kit with the trans in the car, this will fall out when you remove the valve body. Be sure to put some trans assembly grease on it and put it back in with the spring going up into the trans and the ball visible. Saw some vids while researching and people didnt know where this thing went, so making sure I point it out in case someone searches this thread.
GS300
+
Here is the pic of the valve body removed. I have marked each of the 17 bolts that needs to be removed with a red dash. DO NOT REMOVE ANY OTHER BOLTS!
I believe the gearing is the same, it is a A340-LE. The tt trans has more clutches in one of the drums. The USDM tt auto has more clutches in 2 of the drums as I recall. Also, I believe all of the springs for the accumulators etc.. are stiffer as this trans shifts MUCH firmer when the Power mode is selected than the stock trans did.
Also I have read that since the tq convertor is larger, it is more efficient. IDK how true that is but I will be able to tell within a few weeks as I keep track of my gas mileage. i drive 90 miles a day for work.
Also while swapping the trans, I used my air compressor to flush all of the old fluid from the trans lines and cooler. Then sprayed a good amount of brake cleaner in there and power flushed it with air again to make sure it was clean of the old trans fluid. It had plenty of time to dry before the replacement trans went in.
01-12-14, 05:48 PM
