Toyota Aristo upgraded Fuel System FAQ
02-26-10, 02:40 PM
#1
Toyota Aristo upgraded Fuel System FAQ
OK, I'm terrible at doing write-ups, but I get asked so often I figured I'd put out a little information:
(this should prolly get turned into a Sticky at some point).
The 2JZ-GTE Toyota Aristo is a MAP Based ECU and uses 440cc HIGH impedance, side feed injectors. The stock fuel system is good for about 400rwhp.
I have a theory about upgrading the setup for a cost effective solution to get it ready for ~525-550rwhp.
The stock setup uses a 2BAR MAP Sensor, and an Air intake temp sensor for it's MAP based calculations.
Step 1:
Injectors you have two options:
1) use the USDM 550cc LOW Impedance injectors from the MKIV Toyota Supra Twin Turbo. These are side feed injectors and bolt right into your factory fuel rail. I haven't done this in a LONG time, so I think you have to shave down the connector on the injector a little so the "clip" will slide on. And then Add a resistor on the positive Side (Black/Orange srtipe) to each injector to have to have a injector resistor put between them, and then making the LOW impedance setup, high impedance so the Aristo ECU is happy 8-).
2) Get a set of HIGH impedance RX-7 Top feed injectors, and get an aftermarket fuel rail for top feed injectors, and get new clips and wire them in, no resitor pack needed.
(I'm going to be going with option #2 cuz I have lots of Braided line around, and I think it'll look cooler, and I don't feel like finding a resistor pack.)
Now, Reg Reimer made the lexus/500 mod on supras famous, so I'm taking a page from his book. Now that we've given the car 25% more fuel, we need to give it 25% more air, well since it doesn't monitor air, only pressure, lets give it more pressure. In the form of a 2.5Bar MAP sensor. Now in theory this will get you close. You'll ultimately need a fuel computer to fine tune this, and instead of the MAP sensor telling you 2.5v is middle (and atmospheric pressure), the 2.5bar will tell you at like 1.75 or something like that. So it'll get you close, but not right. Once I figure out what this voltage difference is I'll be posting it. Eventually you'll tell the fuel computer when it see's 1.75 volts, tell the computer 2.5 and scale down and up accordingly. Then when you go into boost, add or subtract fuel as needed. That's the theory anyway 8-). I've yet to put it into practice, but lots of people just put in the 550cc injectors, and correct everything with the fuel computer, and it's never quite right. With the larger MAP sensor, it should get you MUCH closer, almost to the point that you have a solid base, with very little adjustment needed to fine tune it.
Fuel Computers:
I'm sure there are lots of options for people, but the cheapest (and this is a BUDGET fuel system upgrade) is to just use an Apexi S-AFC, or Apexi S-AFC II. It's simple, easy as hell to use, and very user friendly. It's cheap $125-$250 too.
FUEL PUMP:
Now, normally people cheap out here too, DO NOT GET A WALBRO 255. Use a used MKIV TT Supra Pump. It's the same price as a new Walbro, and MUCH better at pumping fuel. The Walbros are very famous for making noise. They should always be whisper quiet. If it makes noise, it's bad.
Lemme say that again: if you can hear the Walbro it's bad.
Oh, it'll still pump out fuel, but it tends to not RELIABLY pump out the fuel over 50psi after it starts whining. Your car will go lean, and starve your injectors of fuel, and if you're tuning around it you're adding fuel, messing it up more.
I sell Denso MKIV TT fuel pump on my site AT COST because I want people to use the MKIV Denso pump over the walbro. IN fact I no longer sell the Walbros at all anymore.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR:
You can get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator if you want, or use the stock one which will work for a while, but it limits your tuning. AND GET A QUALITY one. This ISN'Y a place to cheap out. Sure the ebay ones are $100, and the Aeromotive is $240. It's worth the extra $140 for your $2,000 engine.
That's all I can think of for now. I'll try to answer questions as best I can.
Jeff
(this should prolly get turned into a Sticky at some point).
The 2JZ-GTE Toyota Aristo is a MAP Based ECU and uses 440cc HIGH impedance, side feed injectors. The stock fuel system is good for about 400rwhp.
I have a theory about upgrading the setup for a cost effective solution to get it ready for ~525-550rwhp.
The stock setup uses a 2BAR MAP Sensor, and an Air intake temp sensor for it's MAP based calculations.
Step 1:
Injectors you have two options:
1) use the USDM 550cc LOW Impedance injectors from the MKIV Toyota Supra Twin Turbo. These are side feed injectors and bolt right into your factory fuel rail. I haven't done this in a LONG time, so I think you have to shave down the connector on the injector a little so the "clip" will slide on. And then Add a resistor on the positive Side (Black/Orange srtipe) to each injector to have to have a injector resistor put between them, and then making the LOW impedance setup, high impedance so the Aristo ECU is happy 8-).
2) Get a set of HIGH impedance RX-7 Top feed injectors, and get an aftermarket fuel rail for top feed injectors, and get new clips and wire them in, no resitor pack needed.
(I'm going to be going with option #2 cuz I have lots of Braided line around, and I think it'll look cooler, and I don't feel like finding a resistor pack.)
Now, Reg Reimer made the lexus/500 mod on supras famous, so I'm taking a page from his book. Now that we've given the car 25% more fuel, we need to give it 25% more air, well since it doesn't monitor air, only pressure, lets give it more pressure. In the form of a 2.5Bar MAP sensor. Now in theory this will get you close. You'll ultimately need a fuel computer to fine tune this, and instead of the MAP sensor telling you 2.5v is middle (and atmospheric pressure), the 2.5bar will tell you at like 1.75 or something like that. So it'll get you close, but not right. Once I figure out what this voltage difference is I'll be posting it. Eventually you'll tell the fuel computer when it see's 1.75 volts, tell the computer 2.5 and scale down and up accordingly. Then when you go into boost, add or subtract fuel as needed. That's the theory anyway 8-). I've yet to put it into practice, but lots of people just put in the 550cc injectors, and correct everything with the fuel computer, and it's never quite right. With the larger MAP sensor, it should get you MUCH closer, almost to the point that you have a solid base, with very little adjustment needed to fine tune it.
Fuel Computers:
I'm sure there are lots of options for people, but the cheapest (and this is a BUDGET fuel system upgrade) is to just use an Apexi S-AFC, or Apexi S-AFC II. It's simple, easy as hell to use, and very user friendly. It's cheap $125-$250 too.
FUEL PUMP:
Now, normally people cheap out here too, DO NOT GET A WALBRO 255. Use a used MKIV TT Supra Pump. It's the same price as a new Walbro, and MUCH better at pumping fuel. The Walbros are very famous for making noise. They should always be whisper quiet. If it makes noise, it's bad.
Lemme say that again: if you can hear the Walbro it's bad.
Oh, it'll still pump out fuel, but it tends to not RELIABLY pump out the fuel over 50psi after it starts whining. Your car will go lean, and starve your injectors of fuel, and if you're tuning around it you're adding fuel, messing it up more.
I sell Denso MKIV TT fuel pump on my site AT COST because I want people to use the MKIV Denso pump over the walbro. IN fact I no longer sell the Walbros at all anymore.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR:
You can get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator if you want, or use the stock one which will work for a while, but it limits your tuning. AND GET A QUALITY one. This ISN'Y a place to cheap out. Sure the ebay ones are $100, and the Aeromotive is $240. It's worth the extra $140 for your $2,000 engine.
That's all I can think of for now. I'll try to answer questions as best I can.
Jeff
Last edited by jtamulis; 03-01-10 at 06:41 PM.
02-26-10, 03:18 PM
#4
For the 93 Lexus GS300, there's a different solution.
The stock ECU uses a MAF, so you get a MAF from a 4.0 V8 (25% bigger), and the injectors are 330cc stock, so get a set of 440cc injectors from a MKIV Supra turbo (25% bigger). And then you have a fuel system for easy 400rwhp.
(use the pump and fuel computer stuff too)
(and I have 440cc MKIV turbo injectors around the shop somewhere I'd be willing to sell off cheap 8-).
Jeff
The stock ECU uses a MAF, so you get a MAF from a 4.0 V8 (25% bigger), and the injectors are 330cc stock, so get a set of 440cc injectors from a MKIV Supra turbo (25% bigger). And then you have a fuel system for easy 400rwhp.
(use the pump and fuel computer stuff too)
(and I have 440cc MKIV turbo injectors around the shop somewhere I'd be willing to sell off cheap 8-).
Jeff
02-27-10, 12:06 PM
#5
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...istor+injector
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=569687
Last edited by supra247; 02-27-10 at 12:44 PM.
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03-25-10, 10:00 PM
#9
I've decided on going with either 650cc or 720cc injectors and getting a 3-bar MAP sensor (50% bigger injector, 50% bigger MAP).
And running an S-AFC. I'm leaning for 720s, and running the fuel pressure down a bit so that it'll act like 660s, and then I'll be able to bump UP the fuel pressure if I ever need to. I just need to play with datalogging to make a "fuel map" so i can make my S-AFC think nothing has changed for off-boost performance, but tuned for mid and top end via wideband. Hopefully I'll have the same off-boost driveability and a fuel system for lots of power.
Jeff
And running an S-AFC. I'm leaning for 720s, and running the fuel pressure down a bit so that it'll act like 660s, and then I'll be able to bump UP the fuel pressure if I ever need to. I just need to play with datalogging to make a "fuel map" so i can make my S-AFC think nothing has changed for off-boost performance, but tuned for mid and top end via wideband. Hopefully I'll have the same off-boost driveability and a fuel system for lots of power.
Jeff
03-10-11, 09:25 AM
#11
Actually, I just used a MAP-ECU and told it scale up 50% for 660cc injectors. Worked perfectly in no time, it included its own map sensor, and is easy to tune. Don't waste the time getting a 2.5 bar MAP sensor. Just get the MAP-ECU. I have a used one if you want.
Lemme know.
Jeff
Lemme know.
Jeff
03-15-11, 04:17 PM
#12
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For the 93 Lexus GS300, there's a different solution.
The stock ECU uses a MAF, so you get a MAF from a 4.0 V8 (25% bigger), and the injectors are 330cc stock, so get a set of 440cc injectors from a MKIV Supra turbo (25% bigger). And then you have a fuel system for easy 400rwhp.
(use the pump and fuel computer stuff too)
(and I have 440cc MKIV turbo injectors around the shop somewhere I'd be willing to sell off cheap 8-).
Jeff
The stock ECU uses a MAF, so you get a MAF from a 4.0 V8 (25% bigger), and the injectors are 330cc stock, so get a set of 440cc injectors from a MKIV Supra turbo (25% bigger). And then you have a fuel system for easy 400rwhp.
(use the pump and fuel computer stuff too)
(and I have 440cc MKIV turbo injectors around the shop somewhere I'd be willing to sell off cheap 8-).
Jeff
08-24-11, 04:21 PM
#14
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Look what I found
"Found a set of 440 sidefeed Aristo injectors for pretty cheap. Will these fit the 1jzgte fuel rail?"
"The answer is Yes.
Common parts between the 2JZ and 1JZ
- Power steering pump
- Alternator
- Spark plugs (ngk 3330 and 6097)
- US spec 550cc injectors (resistor pack needed)
- JDM Spec 440cc injectors (drop in upgrade)
- Water Pump (requires removal of the 1J hydro fan and a 2J pulley)
- Head gasket
- Clutch fan (if you use a MKIV water pump and pulley, JDM/USDM JZA80 water pump uses clutch fan not hydro)
- Serpentine belt (but NOT timing belt - see below)
- Oil filter and relocation kits
- Intercooler kits
- Plug coils
- Cam gears (incl aftermarket adjustable)
- JDM 2JZ Map sensor
- Ignitor
1) The rod and main bearings.
2) The head bolts, crank and rod bolts from stock or ARP either bolts or studs w/nuts.
3) The pistons including the wrist pins, wrings and locks.
4) The head gasket, stock or aftermarket.
5) stock side feed or after market side feed high ohm injectors. Low ohm injectors require wiring in the 7M or preferably 2JZ injector resistor pack.
6) Water pump and housing when replacing the hydro fan to electric or clutch fan.
7) Cams are normally not interchangeable with out some grinding on the 2JZ cam and having it spun balanced, HKS, Jun and Blitz all make 256, 264, and 272 cams for the 1JZ.
8) Cam shims, springs, retainers, Valves and springs, along with buckets are interchangeable.
9) turbos are not directly interchangeable and require a degree of machining to swap out the 12As for 12b.
The 1988+ Isuzu Trooper 4 cylinder 2.6 liter engine (4ZEL) uses the same belt as the Toyota 1JZ engine. So instead of getting a belt from Japan (~$100) you can pick up an Isuzu Trooper belt locally at an auto parts store for about $30 US. Make Sure You Get The 4 Cylinder 2.6 Litre Engine Belt! "
As posted in: http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...ector-Question
"Found a set of 440 sidefeed Aristo injectors for pretty cheap. Will these fit the 1jzgte fuel rail?"
"The answer is Yes.
Common parts between the 2JZ and 1JZ
- Power steering pump
- Alternator
- Spark plugs (ngk 3330 and 6097)
- US spec 550cc injectors (resistor pack needed)
- JDM Spec 440cc injectors (drop in upgrade)
- Water Pump (requires removal of the 1J hydro fan and a 2J pulley)
- Head gasket
- Clutch fan (if you use a MKIV water pump and pulley, JDM/USDM JZA80 water pump uses clutch fan not hydro)
- Serpentine belt (but NOT timing belt - see below)
- Oil filter and relocation kits
- Intercooler kits
- Plug coils
- Cam gears (incl aftermarket adjustable)
- JDM 2JZ Map sensor
- Ignitor
1) The rod and main bearings.
2) The head bolts, crank and rod bolts from stock or ARP either bolts or studs w/nuts.
3) The pistons including the wrist pins, wrings and locks.
4) The head gasket, stock or aftermarket.
5) stock side feed or after market side feed high ohm injectors. Low ohm injectors require wiring in the 7M or preferably 2JZ injector resistor pack.
6) Water pump and housing when replacing the hydro fan to electric or clutch fan.
7) Cams are normally not interchangeable with out some grinding on the 2JZ cam and having it spun balanced, HKS, Jun and Blitz all make 256, 264, and 272 cams for the 1JZ.
8) Cam shims, springs, retainers, Valves and springs, along with buckets are interchangeable.
9) turbos are not directly interchangeable and require a degree of machining to swap out the 12As for 12b.
The 1988+ Isuzu Trooper 4 cylinder 2.6 liter engine (4ZEL) uses the same belt as the Toyota 1JZ engine. So instead of getting a belt from Japan (~$100) you can pick up an Isuzu Trooper belt locally at an auto parts store for about $30 US. Make Sure You Get The 4 Cylinder 2.6 Litre Engine Belt! "
As posted in: http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...ector-Question
09-01-14, 10:59 PM
#15
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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Actually, I just used a MAP-ECU and told it scale up 50% for 660cc injectors. Worked perfectly in no time, it included its own map sensor, and is easy to tune. Don't waste the time getting a 2.5 bar MAP sensor. Just get the MAP-ECU. I have a used one if you want.
Lemme know.
Jeff
Lemme know.
Jeff