Basic GS300 NA-T thread.
01-28-09, 01:32 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Basic GS300 NA-T thread.
Hey guys, I just thought Id answer a couple of Basic questions for people that I had when I started my NA-T Project on the Gs300. Im also a noob, and feel free to correct me and ill edit the information as we go. Also Check out CLUBNA-T.COM for more info on going NA-T. Hopefully Ill get around to writing up a DIY with Pictures also.
1. Should I go NA-T or 2JZGTE Swap?
That really depends on your car, and your opinion of the Pro's and Con's, theres plenty of threads on this. In my opinion, If your engine is healthy and under 150,000 miles, and you have someone in the smog business thatll "help" you out on your 2 year smog test, Go NA-t! If your engine is worn, have around 4k plus, engines going to die on you, or you prefer to be more sleeper, go 2JZGTE.
2. Is going NA-T street legal?
From what Ive Researched, No company makes a street legal kit for our Cars. However, While im not endorsing criminal activities, there are smog shops who "pass" illegal cars, and some people also make their car's sleeper (BOSCH Recirculated bypass vavle, Electric exhuast Cutouts, Recirculated wastegates etc..) However your not 100% safe from a State referee ticket.
3. How will my transmission handle a turbo?
Your transmission will be under more stress, it will also be forced to shift quicker. According to the research ive found , Stock gs300 transmissions can handle upto 310-350 Wheel Horsepower, However A mechanic i met told me his 2jzge tranny took 365 to the wheels, and when he pushed 380 his tranny failed. Remember everyone's transmission's condition is different, and I recommend getting a tranny cooler.
3. How Much Will going NA-T cost?
This actually can range from 1.5k (DIY Install) and up, Its rare but possible to do it for under that if you install it yourself and find cheaply priced parts. If you buy a kit, it would be more expensive, but you can have peace of mind Knowing that the parts should all fit together.
Heres a list of what I spent putting my Custom kit together. (Some new, Some Used)
Garret T04 turbo used- 110$
Turbo rebuild kit - 25$
XSPower Manifold/Downpipe - 300$
Aristo Intercooler- 50$
Garret T04 Oil line kit-120$
Porsche Bypass vavle (Instead of BOV) -35$
Ebay Intercooler piping - 150$
Walboro Fuel Pump- 99$
T3 to T4 Manifold adapter- 60$
XSPower 38mm Wastegate- 90$
Apexi SAFC - 140$
Manual boost controller- 20$
Greddy Boost Gauge- 45$
PLX Wideband 02 sensor and AFR Guage- 200$
Miscellaneous (Couplers, Zip ties,Vacuum line Gaskets,flanges) - 150$
I also Asked my mechanic to tap my oil pan and oil sender unit - 50$
Grand total (minus tools heh) = 1644 $ (Basic parts listed above)
With this setup at 9PSI I expect to make 300-310 to the wheels.
The key is to find good deals, Have patience, THOROUGHLY check used parts, and research. Everyone's price range is going to be different. and Expect some random expenses.
4. What are the Basic Parts needed for an Na-T setup?
This depends on your power goals, expect to shell out more $$$ for more HP. Also your going to want to balance reliability and affordability. The basic parts are just that, Basic. Which means less proficiency and reliability. The more horsepower you want, the more advanced (recommended parts) you want to get. In a sense , you get what you pay for (While this doesn't always apply,it does the majority of the time.)
Basic Parts
Turbine
Turbo Exhaust Manifold
Downpipe
Oil line Kit
Wastegate
Blow off vavle or Bypass Valve.
Piping/couplers
Fuel Management device or tuned ECU
Recommended additional Parts depending on HP GOALS
Intercooler
Air Fuel ratio, PSI, Oil temp, Volt Gauges
Boost controller
Walboro Fuel pump
Bigger Fuel injectors
Oil Pressure regulator
Oil Catch Can
Turbo rebuild kit (If your turbo is used)
2JZGTE Headgasket
Heat Wrap
New Head studs
Modified Exhaust
Sorry If i Missed anything.
5. What problems might I run into while Turbocharging my Gs300?
A couple of problems actually need to be dealt with, Since theirs not many companies making turbo kits or parts for our car we have to settle with kits and parts from the 1993-2002 MKIV NA Supra (the 4th gen supra). This means we will have fitment and other issues. I'll just talk about some problems I ran into or avoided. The newer turbo manifolds use 02 sensors that are screw in type, according to my research 2jzge's made before 1996 (Im iffy about the year,someone please correct me if im wrong) have bolt in O2 sensors. So you might have to buy New 02 sensors that screw into the manifold instead of bolting in. Another problem you might run into is the Distributor, it gets in the way of the Intake outlet (the cold silver side of the turbo,where the air gets sucked in) for some T4 and larger turbo's. You can solve this problem in many ways, You can use a smaller turbo, you can weld a different flange on the manifold, and the next two would be the easiest,you can use a 90 degree silicone coupler to avoid the distributor , or you can replace your distributor cap with one of a smaller 4runner distributor cap ( http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showt...ht=distributor ). You might also run into inter cooler + Piping fitment issues. All i can say to that one is hello Dremel.
6. Where can I place my intercooler?
In front of the radiator is what is seen most commonly, and it does require some fabrication to the bumper, nothing too crazy. However after researching I found out,If you have a small enough intercooler, you can place it where the stock aristo intercooler goes, near the Passenger fog light.
7. How much Can my stock rods and block hold?
Ive seen that 700-800 hp is do-able with simple modifications (ARP Headbolts, Headgasket). While it may not be safe or not, its still do-able. I think the member who did this is still around lol.
8. Will I need bigger Fuel injectors or a Better Fuel pump?
The stock injectors can safely hit 400hp with proper tuning. And for any turbo application I'd go with a new fuel pump. They usually run around 100$ anyways.
9. How much PSI can my engine handle?
The answer to this question varies. It's not about How much PSI your engine can run, its more about how much heat your engine can handle, how much Horsepower/ torque can it take, what Head gasket you use, the condition of your engine (including gaskets), your fuel system, your turbo size, and your electronics. With my setup posted above, I can run 9Psi safely, but I wouldn't go any higher than that without adding more parts.
10. Is 6 PSI with a small turbo the same as 6 PSI with a larger turbo?
This question always causes a huge debate, so Ill try to answer this as simple as possible. No, its different in terms of quality (Temperature/ Volume) of the air. However you should get similar results in terms of HP and Torque.
11. Electronics..... Can I run a turbo kit without any electronics or modifications to my ECU (Car's computer) even at 6 psi?
Yes you can, but there's a very high chance of detonating your engine, and it will run "*****y". This is because the amount of air entering your engine increases dramatically when you go turbo, and your ecu cannot calculate a correct Air/Fuel ratio needed for your engine to work correctly. You will either run too rich (too much fuel!) or too lean (too much Air). Both can lead to the destruction of your engine, however running lean will probably do it faster.
12. Should I go with a Stand alone Ecu Computer (Full "turbo computer"), A re-mapped Ecu (tuned Stock Ecu to fit turbo settings) or a Piggyback (Device attaching to your ECU which modify signals) ?
You can go with any 3, however again it all depends on your Power goals and budget. If you have the money go with a standalone ecu such as the AEM. If your short on cash and your power goals aren't ridiculously fast, you can go with a tuned ECU or a piggyback. I would go with a piggyback because it leaves you with more tuning options, and wont revert back to factory settings (Ive heard "stories" of Tuned Ecu's relearning there OEM programming, I could be wrong).
13. What Piggyback ECU should I choose?
After researching Ive noticed that there are 3 main contenders for our car in this field. The APEXI SAFC series (NEO,I, II) , the greddy emanage Blue and the Greddy Emanage Ultimate. The Apexi SAFC is a pretty safe bet when tuning our cars, it has many on screen displays ,you can adjust the fuel on the spot and it has a setting for our engines specifically. The greddy Emanage blue is similar except it does not have an on screen display or gauges, it has small ***** to adjust fuel addition, However it has more tuning options if you buy the Software (Which you can download for free in some locations) and the Special USB cable. An example of this would be the ability for the E-manage to Adjust Timing (which SAFC does not have). These two piggybacks run into a problem however. Our cars use a Karman Vortex Mass air flow sensor (The metal silver rectangle piece with the small black square on it next to your Air box). This sensor reads the amount of air coming into your car, however it does not account for the air lost through your Blow off valve when you close the throttle plate (when you release the acceleration pedal and here the Swoosh noise, the swoosh noise is actually air leaving your inter cooler piping so it doesn't go back up your turbo and damage it). You can usually fix this problem by Venting your BOV to a pipe between your Turbo intake outlet(where the turbo sucks the air in) and the MAF. Its pretty much attaching a rubber/silicone hose to your BOV and connecting it to that pipe. However with the greddy Emanage Ultimate, you not only get the tuning options of the greddy emanage blue, but you no longer have any stalling problems due to the anti-stall feature of the Emanage ultimate, you can even get rid of your Mass Air flow Sensor.
Here's a brief and overly simplified description of what Basic Turbo parts do.
Turbocharger- Uses exhaust gas from your engine to rotate a fan (hot side of turbo), which creates Pressurized air and force feeds it to your Intake manifold (cold side of the turbo).
Turbo Manifold- Replaces your stock Exhaust manifold, its the piece which the exhaust Gasses travel through and lead to the hotside of your turbo.
External Waste gate- Attached to the turbo manifold , it regulates the pressure of the Exhaust gas going through to the turbo (Hotside), more gas means more rotations of the turbo, which means more psi. Its set to open at a certain amount of pressure and its controlled by a spring. PSI can be adjusted with a boost controller.
Intercooler- When air is compressed it heats up, the intercooler basically cools it down with pressure drops and temperature, however you do lose a small amount of PSI.
Turbo Oil Lines- The "fan" inside the turbo rotates extremely fast, not only does the turbo heat up, it needs lubrication. This is where your engine oil comes in, it lubricates and cools down the turbo. There are two parts to this An oil sending line (to the turbo) , and an oil drain line (From the turbo) . On our cars you can using the stock oil pressure sensor as an oil sending line to the turbo. For the oil drain line, one end connects to the turbo and the other one can connect to your oil pan. (You need to drill and tap your oil pan , however I asked my mechanic to tap my sender and Drain line for 50$)
Blow off valve or Bypass Valve - When you step on the acceleration a plate in your throttle body opens up and allows air into the engine, the more you press the pedal, the more it opens. When you turbo your car theres alot of pressurized air in the intercooler piping and the turbo, so if you close the throttle plate, the unused air has no place to go and is forced back up your turbo which can damage it. The blow off valve release that air into the atmosphere (Whoosh sound). You can also reroute that air back into your intake with a bypass valve.
Downpipe- Your turbo Exhuast manifold sends exhuast gas to your turbo and no longer lets the exhuast gas out through your exhaust system (the pipes) , So the down pipe attaches to the hotside of the turbo and sends the Exhuast gas back to the Exhuast system (the pipes that pop out of the rear of your car).
I may have missed a couple of things, and made some mistakes (Including grammer haha). So feel Free to correct me or add on. A NECESSARY tool to help you learn more is http://forum.clubna-t.com/ . Much of my information was learned through there, I also wanna thank any of the members on this forum who taught me some stuff too. Also like to thank the pioneers of GS300's that have been turbocharged on this forum. My advice to you, is to research, have patience, do it once, do it right if you can (but messing up is learning and its okay). And have fun, if your turbocharging your car, you must love it and enjoy this hobby. Most Importantly ASK QUESTIONS!
1. Should I go NA-T or 2JZGTE Swap?
That really depends on your car, and your opinion of the Pro's and Con's, theres plenty of threads on this. In my opinion, If your engine is healthy and under 150,000 miles, and you have someone in the smog business thatll "help" you out on your 2 year smog test, Go NA-t! If your engine is worn, have around 4k plus, engines going to die on you, or you prefer to be more sleeper, go 2JZGTE.
2. Is going NA-T street legal?
From what Ive Researched, No company makes a street legal kit for our Cars. However, While im not endorsing criminal activities, there are smog shops who "pass" illegal cars, and some people also make their car's sleeper (BOSCH Recirculated bypass vavle, Electric exhuast Cutouts, Recirculated wastegates etc..) However your not 100% safe from a State referee ticket.
3. How will my transmission handle a turbo?
Your transmission will be under more stress, it will also be forced to shift quicker. According to the research ive found , Stock gs300 transmissions can handle upto 310-350 Wheel Horsepower, However A mechanic i met told me his 2jzge tranny took 365 to the wheels, and when he pushed 380 his tranny failed. Remember everyone's transmission's condition is different, and I recommend getting a tranny cooler.
3. How Much Will going NA-T cost?
This actually can range from 1.5k (DIY Install) and up, Its rare but possible to do it for under that if you install it yourself and find cheaply priced parts. If you buy a kit, it would be more expensive, but you can have peace of mind Knowing that the parts should all fit together.
Heres a list of what I spent putting my Custom kit together. (Some new, Some Used)
Garret T04 turbo used- 110$
Turbo rebuild kit - 25$
XSPower Manifold/Downpipe - 300$
Aristo Intercooler- 50$
Garret T04 Oil line kit-120$
Porsche Bypass vavle (Instead of BOV) -35$
Ebay Intercooler piping - 150$
Walboro Fuel Pump- 99$
T3 to T4 Manifold adapter- 60$
XSPower 38mm Wastegate- 90$
Apexi SAFC - 140$
Manual boost controller- 20$
Greddy Boost Gauge- 45$
PLX Wideband 02 sensor and AFR Guage- 200$
Miscellaneous (Couplers, Zip ties,Vacuum line Gaskets,flanges) - 150$
I also Asked my mechanic to tap my oil pan and oil sender unit - 50$
Grand total (minus tools heh) = 1644 $ (Basic parts listed above)
With this setup at 9PSI I expect to make 300-310 to the wheels.
The key is to find good deals, Have patience, THOROUGHLY check used parts, and research. Everyone's price range is going to be different. and Expect some random expenses.
4. What are the Basic Parts needed for an Na-T setup?
This depends on your power goals, expect to shell out more $$$ for more HP. Also your going to want to balance reliability and affordability. The basic parts are just that, Basic. Which means less proficiency and reliability. The more horsepower you want, the more advanced (recommended parts) you want to get. In a sense , you get what you pay for (While this doesn't always apply,it does the majority of the time.)
Basic Parts
Turbine
Turbo Exhaust Manifold
Downpipe
Oil line Kit
Wastegate
Blow off vavle or Bypass Valve.
Piping/couplers
Fuel Management device or tuned ECU
Recommended additional Parts depending on HP GOALS
Intercooler
Air Fuel ratio, PSI, Oil temp, Volt Gauges
Boost controller
Walboro Fuel pump
Bigger Fuel injectors
Oil Pressure regulator
Oil Catch Can
Turbo rebuild kit (If your turbo is used)
2JZGTE Headgasket
Heat Wrap
New Head studs
Modified Exhaust
Sorry If i Missed anything.
5. What problems might I run into while Turbocharging my Gs300?
A couple of problems actually need to be dealt with, Since theirs not many companies making turbo kits or parts for our car we have to settle with kits and parts from the 1993-2002 MKIV NA Supra (the 4th gen supra). This means we will have fitment and other issues. I'll just talk about some problems I ran into or avoided. The newer turbo manifolds use 02 sensors that are screw in type, according to my research 2jzge's made before 1996 (Im iffy about the year,someone please correct me if im wrong) have bolt in O2 sensors. So you might have to buy New 02 sensors that screw into the manifold instead of bolting in. Another problem you might run into is the Distributor, it gets in the way of the Intake outlet (the cold silver side of the turbo,where the air gets sucked in) for some T4 and larger turbo's. You can solve this problem in many ways, You can use a smaller turbo, you can weld a different flange on the manifold, and the next two would be the easiest,you can use a 90 degree silicone coupler to avoid the distributor , or you can replace your distributor cap with one of a smaller 4runner distributor cap ( http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showt...ht=distributor ). You might also run into inter cooler + Piping fitment issues. All i can say to that one is hello Dremel.
6. Where can I place my intercooler?
In front of the radiator is what is seen most commonly, and it does require some fabrication to the bumper, nothing too crazy. However after researching I found out,If you have a small enough intercooler, you can place it where the stock aristo intercooler goes, near the Passenger fog light.
7. How much Can my stock rods and block hold?
Ive seen that 700-800 hp is do-able with simple modifications (ARP Headbolts, Headgasket). While it may not be safe or not, its still do-able. I think the member who did this is still around lol.
8. Will I need bigger Fuel injectors or a Better Fuel pump?
The stock injectors can safely hit 400hp with proper tuning. And for any turbo application I'd go with a new fuel pump. They usually run around 100$ anyways.
9. How much PSI can my engine handle?
The answer to this question varies. It's not about How much PSI your engine can run, its more about how much heat your engine can handle, how much Horsepower/ torque can it take, what Head gasket you use, the condition of your engine (including gaskets), your fuel system, your turbo size, and your electronics. With my setup posted above, I can run 9Psi safely, but I wouldn't go any higher than that without adding more parts.
10. Is 6 PSI with a small turbo the same as 6 PSI with a larger turbo?
This question always causes a huge debate, so Ill try to answer this as simple as possible. No, its different in terms of quality (Temperature/ Volume) of the air. However you should get similar results in terms of HP and Torque.
11. Electronics..... Can I run a turbo kit without any electronics or modifications to my ECU (Car's computer) even at 6 psi?
Yes you can, but there's a very high chance of detonating your engine, and it will run "*****y". This is because the amount of air entering your engine increases dramatically when you go turbo, and your ecu cannot calculate a correct Air/Fuel ratio needed for your engine to work correctly. You will either run too rich (too much fuel!) or too lean (too much Air). Both can lead to the destruction of your engine, however running lean will probably do it faster.
12. Should I go with a Stand alone Ecu Computer (Full "turbo computer"), A re-mapped Ecu (tuned Stock Ecu to fit turbo settings) or a Piggyback (Device attaching to your ECU which modify signals) ?
You can go with any 3, however again it all depends on your Power goals and budget. If you have the money go with a standalone ecu such as the AEM. If your short on cash and your power goals aren't ridiculously fast, you can go with a tuned ECU or a piggyback. I would go with a piggyback because it leaves you with more tuning options, and wont revert back to factory settings (Ive heard "stories" of Tuned Ecu's relearning there OEM programming, I could be wrong).
13. What Piggyback ECU should I choose?
After researching Ive noticed that there are 3 main contenders for our car in this field. The APEXI SAFC series (NEO,I, II) , the greddy emanage Blue and the Greddy Emanage Ultimate. The Apexi SAFC is a pretty safe bet when tuning our cars, it has many on screen displays ,you can adjust the fuel on the spot and it has a setting for our engines specifically. The greddy Emanage blue is similar except it does not have an on screen display or gauges, it has small ***** to adjust fuel addition, However it has more tuning options if you buy the Software (Which you can download for free in some locations) and the Special USB cable. An example of this would be the ability for the E-manage to Adjust Timing (which SAFC does not have). These two piggybacks run into a problem however. Our cars use a Karman Vortex Mass air flow sensor (The metal silver rectangle piece with the small black square on it next to your Air box). This sensor reads the amount of air coming into your car, however it does not account for the air lost through your Blow off valve when you close the throttle plate (when you release the acceleration pedal and here the Swoosh noise, the swoosh noise is actually air leaving your inter cooler piping so it doesn't go back up your turbo and damage it). You can usually fix this problem by Venting your BOV to a pipe between your Turbo intake outlet(where the turbo sucks the air in) and the MAF. Its pretty much attaching a rubber/silicone hose to your BOV and connecting it to that pipe. However with the greddy Emanage Ultimate, you not only get the tuning options of the greddy emanage blue, but you no longer have any stalling problems due to the anti-stall feature of the Emanage ultimate, you can even get rid of your Mass Air flow Sensor.
Here's a brief and overly simplified description of what Basic Turbo parts do.
Turbocharger- Uses exhaust gas from your engine to rotate a fan (hot side of turbo), which creates Pressurized air and force feeds it to your Intake manifold (cold side of the turbo).
Turbo Manifold- Replaces your stock Exhaust manifold, its the piece which the exhaust Gasses travel through and lead to the hotside of your turbo.
External Waste gate- Attached to the turbo manifold , it regulates the pressure of the Exhaust gas going through to the turbo (Hotside), more gas means more rotations of the turbo, which means more psi. Its set to open at a certain amount of pressure and its controlled by a spring. PSI can be adjusted with a boost controller.
Intercooler- When air is compressed it heats up, the intercooler basically cools it down with pressure drops and temperature, however you do lose a small amount of PSI.
Turbo Oil Lines- The "fan" inside the turbo rotates extremely fast, not only does the turbo heat up, it needs lubrication. This is where your engine oil comes in, it lubricates and cools down the turbo. There are two parts to this An oil sending line (to the turbo) , and an oil drain line (From the turbo) . On our cars you can using the stock oil pressure sensor as an oil sending line to the turbo. For the oil drain line, one end connects to the turbo and the other one can connect to your oil pan. (You need to drill and tap your oil pan , however I asked my mechanic to tap my sender and Drain line for 50$)
Blow off valve or Bypass Valve - When you step on the acceleration a plate in your throttle body opens up and allows air into the engine, the more you press the pedal, the more it opens. When you turbo your car theres alot of pressurized air in the intercooler piping and the turbo, so if you close the throttle plate, the unused air has no place to go and is forced back up your turbo which can damage it. The blow off valve release that air into the atmosphere (Whoosh sound). You can also reroute that air back into your intake with a bypass valve.
Downpipe- Your turbo Exhuast manifold sends exhuast gas to your turbo and no longer lets the exhuast gas out through your exhaust system (the pipes) , So the down pipe attaches to the hotside of the turbo and sends the Exhuast gas back to the Exhuast system (the pipes that pop out of the rear of your car).
I may have missed a couple of things, and made some mistakes (Including grammer haha). So feel Free to correct me or add on. A NECESSARY tool to help you learn more is http://forum.clubna-t.com/ . Much of my information was learned through there, I also wanna thank any of the members on this forum who taught me some stuff too. Also like to thank the pioneers of GS300's that have been turbocharged on this forum. My advice to you, is to research, have patience, do it once, do it right if you can (but messing up is learning and its okay). And have fun, if your turbocharging your car, you must love it and enjoy this hobby. Most Importantly ASK QUESTIONS!
The following users liked this post:
Jakthedog (01-31-20)
01-28-09, 05:25 AM
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Just want to add that while you are referring to our karmen vortex sensors as a MAF it should be referred to it as an AFM. When most people say MAF they are talking about the hot wire type sensor found in the turbo and obd2 2jz's.
01-28-09, 09:40 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
The spring rate is how many milimeters the wastegate will open per PSI
Last edited by vindedreal; 01-28-09 at 09:54 AM.
01-28-09, 10:04 AM
#5
Oh yeah, thats what it should be referred to, thanks for reminding me.
If your waste gate spring is set at 7psi, it will open at 7psi, However with a boost controller, you can change the PSI, as long as your waste gate spring can support that much PSI.
The spring rate is how many milimeters the wastegate will open per PSI
If your waste gate spring is set at 7psi, it will open at 7psi, However with a boost controller, you can change the PSI, as long as your waste gate spring can support that much PSI.
The spring rate is how many milimeters the wastegate will open per PSI
01-28-09, 01:03 PM
#6
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Wrong. The spring determines the lowest amount of boost the wastegate will allow you to run. IE, 10 psi spring....you can't boost any lower than 10psi. To add to this, normally any type of boost controller either manual or electronic typically will only allow you to run double the wg spring pressure. You can run more but it'll probably creep or spike and then drop so order your spring according to both your base boost and high boost settings.
01-28-09, 01:14 PM
#7
Wrong. The spring determines the lowest amount of boost the wastegate will allow you to run. IE, 10 psi spring....you can't boost any lower than 10psi. To add to this, normally any type of boost controller either manual or electronic typically will only allow you to run double the wg spring pressure. You can run more but it'll probably creep or spike and then drop so order your spring according to both your base boost and high boost settings.
Plus Boost Spike or creep is determined by the size of the wastegate valve. Boost creep is rising boost due to not enough exhaust bypassing the housing not by the size of your wastegate spring!
Last edited by Rising_Sun; 01-28-09 at 01:27 PM.
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01-28-09, 01:37 PM
#8
Wrong. The spring determines the lowest amount of boost the wastegate will allow you to run. IE, 10 psi spring....you can't boost any lower than 10psi. To add to this, normally any type of boost controller either manual or electronic typically will only allow you to run double the wg spring pressure. You can run more but it'll probably creep or spike and then drop so order your spring according to both your base boost and high boost settings.
A wastegate does dictates max boost pressure under wide open throttle, unless you have a boost controller. This is not counting boost spiking.
Under part throttle, you can have turbo pressure much less than the set spring on the wastegate.
This is all semantics.
01-28-09, 02:03 PM
#9
Ok let me put my .02 in about the wastegate spring question, it depends.
Wastegate springs without a boost controller would be max boost, with a boost controller would be minimum boost.
The reason for putting a boost controller beside getting more boost is also to eliminate pre-openning leak.
So it was kind of a trick question.
Wastegate springs without a boost controller would be max boost, with a boost controller would be minimum boost.
The reason for putting a boost controller beside getting more boost is also to eliminate pre-openning leak.
So it was kind of a trick question.
01-28-09, 02:26 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LStlqe64m4M
By the way, thanks for everyones input. Any more information would also be appreciated.
By the way, thanks for everyones input. Any more information would also be appreciated.
01-30-09, 09:18 AM
#11
haha you guys are funny when describing the wastegates lol. i understand though.
next question. walbro fuel pumps. the 255lph ones. is there a specific part number for the ones that will fit our vehicles? I know that some 2GS ppl have some issues fitting it, so i wanted to know if we will run into the same problem/need to get a specific pump.
and would this pump be alright to get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
next question. walbro fuel pumps. the 255lph ones. is there a specific part number for the ones that will fit our vehicles? I know that some 2GS ppl have some issues fitting it, so i wanted to know if we will run into the same problem/need to get a specific pump.
and would this pump be alright to get?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
01-30-09, 11:17 AM
#12
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So u r sayin that with a 10lb spring, I can run 10 or more lbs and not 9 and less?! 
Wrong. A 10lb spring will allow u to run up to 10lbs of of boost (on a properly working wastegate). Thats it.Everything else I agree with.
10-30-09, 02:24 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Well Im putting my turbo back in on monday (I had to take it off to pass smog..) , Im going to try and document the major steps with photos, anyone have any pictures of anything specific they wanted to see?
Also if you have anything else to add to this thread Just lemme know Ill edit the previous posts.
Also if you have anything else to add to this thread Just lemme know Ill edit the previous posts.
10-31-09, 08:56 PM
#15
Driver
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pa
Posts: 184
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I know this is an old thread but I missed what was being said...
You guys are looking at it back-asswards. When choosing a wastegate you choose the spring based on the minimum amount of boost you choose to run. Anyone can acheive 1 or 2 or 3, etc psi at part throttle......but normally WOT is how you base anything to do with your boost. Example: Your installing an electronic boost controller. Are you gonna tune your high boost value on 75% throttle? No, thats just assinine. I'm pretty sure I know a thing or two about wastegates and how they work
You guys are looking at it back-asswards. When choosing a wastegate you choose the spring based on the minimum amount of boost you choose to run. Anyone can acheive 1 or 2 or 3, etc psi at part throttle......but normally WOT is how you base anything to do with your boost. Example: Your installing an electronic boost controller. Are you gonna tune your high boost value on 75% throttle? No, thats just assinine. I'm pretty sure I know a thing or two about wastegates and how they work
