REQUEST: How-To Remove Headlights w/ PICTURES
09-26-08, 01:06 PM
#64
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some final observations after finishing R side
1) If you like self-torture, you will enjoy retrofitting HIDs into your stock headlamps.
2) While I learned a lot, there are certainly things I could have done better. For example, more careful cutting and planning with the grey metal bracket. I really beat the **** out of that bracket, mostly because I was _learning_ while I was working. Next time, I will know exactly what cuts to make for this particular HID assembly, and how to guarantee success. Unfortunately, when you begin your retrofit, you will go through the same learning. You might benefit from having a spare headlamp or whatever....something I did not have the luxury of.
3) Retrofit is obviously a great opportunity to clear your corners, and generally clean your headlamps inside and out
4) HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS. I particular, find yourself a paint marking pen with a thin long tip. If I had only had something like that, I would have been better off. Also, find a dremel tool with a long battery life, or a plug. My dremel ran out of power no less than 12 times during this project. Such a waste of time while I waited for it to charge. Finally, have a good set of large and small metal files, and a VERY long philips # 2 screwdriver, a nice razor blade, some sand paper, a cordless drill with bits, a trim panel tool, various needle nose plyers and cutters and probably some other stuff I am forgetting.
5) If you buy HIDs make sure the come with RINGS. While I am happy with the outcome of this project, I can't help but think it would have been even better if I had the factory projector rings on there. At the same time, having the stock Lexus rings over the aftermarket projector assemblies kind of makes this look like the Bixenon HID's came with this 1993 GS300. And that is kind of cool.
I'll update this thread with more pics of the headlamp installed, etc. when I get to that point. Thanks!
1) If you like self-torture, you will enjoy retrofitting HIDs into your stock headlamps.
2) While I learned a lot, there are certainly things I could have done better. For example, more careful cutting and planning with the grey metal bracket. I really beat the **** out of that bracket, mostly because I was _learning_ while I was working. Next time, I will know exactly what cuts to make for this particular HID assembly, and how to guarantee success. Unfortunately, when you begin your retrofit, you will go through the same learning. You might benefit from having a spare headlamp or whatever....something I did not have the luxury of.
3) Retrofit is obviously a great opportunity to clear your corners, and generally clean your headlamps inside and out
4) HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS. I particular, find yourself a paint marking pen with a thin long tip. If I had only had something like that, I would have been better off. Also, find a dremel tool with a long battery life, or a plug. My dremel ran out of power no less than 12 times during this project. Such a waste of time while I waited for it to charge. Finally, have a good set of large and small metal files, and a VERY long philips # 2 screwdriver, a nice razor blade, some sand paper, a cordless drill with bits, a trim panel tool, various needle nose plyers and cutters and probably some other stuff I am forgetting.
5) If you buy HIDs make sure the come with RINGS. While I am happy with the outcome of this project, I can't help but think it would have been even better if I had the factory projector rings on there. At the same time, having the stock Lexus rings over the aftermarket projector assemblies kind of makes this look like the Bixenon HID's came with this 1993 GS300. And that is kind of cool.
I'll update this thread with more pics of the headlamp installed, etc. when I get to that point. Thanks!
09-27-08, 09:55 AM
#65
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props props props!!! you are going to LOVE those HID's!!! i know i do! thanks for the detailed write-up. i'm not as crafty as you so i don't think i will be swapping out my own projectors. but, i'm definitely clearing the headlights and restoring them once i get my car back from the autobody shop. currently getting the jdm bumper painted and installed
once you've finished the other headlight, be sure to post pics during day and night so we can see your finished product installed and in use.
once you've finished the other headlight, be sure to post pics during day and night so we can see your finished product installed and in use.
09-30-08, 09:07 AM
#66
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finished pics side one. wish I could show you a compare halogen vs. HID but I am using the drivers side headlight plug as a feed for the aftermarket harness. This came out SOOOO good, very happy right now.
Last edited by bguild; 09-30-08 at 09:12 AM.
09-30-08, 09:34 AM
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Super Clean!!! we have the same color GS. are those GOLD rims I see on your car?? do you have any side pics of your GS?? I should be gettin mine back this week from the body shop. I can't wait to finally have it back and start working on my headlights!!! once again, good job and good write-up!
09-30-08, 01:10 PM
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Super Clean!!! we have the same color GS. are those GOLD rims I see on your car?? do you have any side pics of your GS?? I should be gettin mine back this week from the body shop. I can't wait to finally have it back and start working on my headlights!!! once again, good job and good write-up!https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=382729
10-02-08, 08:02 AM
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ROUND 2 - THEME IS PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
Guys, doing this on the drivers side has been a breeze because I learned much from my first experience on the passengers side.
For example, I can now remove a headlamp from the car in less than 10 minutes, vs. 30 minutes the first time (most of the time spent in figuring out how to remove).
Another example, headlight disassembled, baked, and seperated all within 30 minutes, vs. 2 hours before.
Last example, grey mounting plate removed successfully and modified for projector in only 2 hours! This is the part that took me over 8 hours last time. As an added benefit, this grey mounting plate looks 5x better than the first one. The cuts and grinds are more precise, and better placed. The mount is solid, and 100% straight.
Based on my experience with this drivers side, I might actually buy another passenger side headlight, and do the modifications one more time. See, even though the passengers side came out good, I am a perfectionist, and it needs to be even better. I now have the experience to do it 100% right.
In the following pictures I will detail some of my learning.
This first picture is of the finished drivers side grey mounting plate with projector installed. Note specifically a few things:
1) Stock projector cutoff is completely cut off and sanded smooth. No lip is needed, and in fact, leaving a lip like I did on the passengers side only causes difficulty when putting the stock rings over the aftermarket projectors.
2) Seperate 3/16" holes for mounting nubs on the projector assembly. 3/16" allows a bit of adjustment for the assembly once installed. Then, tighten the bolts once 100% straight.
3) Angled notches for lower legs of projector assembly. These lower legs cause a lot of grief because the angle makes it hard to cut openings. This time when I cut these openings, I cut them with a hand held mini hacksaw, which allowed me more flexibility with the cuts, and a neater result. I finished each opening with a dremel metal grinding bit, which was ideal.
4) Last but not least, notice the side notches next to the lower legs. This is required to allow sufficient clearance for the bixenon projector shield for the high beam actuation mechanism. Without this, your shield will get hung up repeatedly, and you will likely burn out the servo. Plus, your high beams will not work.
These mods have allowed the current projector to mount level vertically and horizontally. I must emphasize how important it is to mount the assembly relatively level for both horizontal and vertical. If you do not take care in this step, adjusting your headlamps later is going to be a challenge (yet another piece of learning for me personally, as I am having trouble adjusting the passengers side).
Guys, doing this on the drivers side has been a breeze because I learned much from my first experience on the passengers side.
For example, I can now remove a headlamp from the car in less than 10 minutes, vs. 30 minutes the first time (most of the time spent in figuring out how to remove).
Another example, headlight disassembled, baked, and seperated all within 30 minutes, vs. 2 hours before.
Last example, grey mounting plate removed successfully and modified for projector in only 2 hours! This is the part that took me over 8 hours last time. As an added benefit, this grey mounting plate looks 5x better than the first one. The cuts and grinds are more precise, and better placed. The mount is solid, and 100% straight.
Based on my experience with this drivers side, I might actually buy another passenger side headlight, and do the modifications one more time. See, even though the passengers side came out good, I am a perfectionist, and it needs to be even better. I now have the experience to do it 100% right.
In the following pictures I will detail some of my learning.
This first picture is of the finished drivers side grey mounting plate with projector installed. Note specifically a few things:
1) Stock projector cutoff is completely cut off and sanded smooth. No lip is needed, and in fact, leaving a lip like I did on the passengers side only causes difficulty when putting the stock rings over the aftermarket projectors.
2) Seperate 3/16" holes for mounting nubs on the projector assembly. 3/16" allows a bit of adjustment for the assembly once installed. Then, tighten the bolts once 100% straight.
3) Angled notches for lower legs of projector assembly. These lower legs cause a lot of grief because the angle makes it hard to cut openings. This time when I cut these openings, I cut them with a hand held mini hacksaw, which allowed me more flexibility with the cuts, and a neater result. I finished each opening with a dremel metal grinding bit, which was ideal.
4) Last but not least, notice the side notches next to the lower legs. This is required to allow sufficient clearance for the bixenon projector shield for the high beam actuation mechanism. Without this, your shield will get hung up repeatedly, and you will likely burn out the servo. Plus, your high beams will not work.
These mods have allowed the current projector to mount level vertically and horizontally. I must emphasize how important it is to mount the assembly relatively level for both horizontal and vertical. If you do not take care in this step, adjusting your headlamps later is going to be a challenge (yet another piece of learning for me personally, as I am having trouble adjusting the passengers side).
10-02-08, 08:10 AM
#73
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Note the areas where the heads of the screws sit have been carved out to allow a flat seat. Very important, because you want you screws to tighten straight - no stripping of holes allowed!
10-02-08, 08:12 AM
#74
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This part was not that fun, but I learned a lot here on the first one.
My cuts are much more precise on the stock rings, to allow them to sit flat and level. Notice the cuts on this ring are slightly angled to accomodate those stupid lower projector arms.
My cuts are much more precise on the stock rings, to allow them to sit flat and level. Notice the cuts on this ring are slightly angled to accomodate those stupid lower projector arms.
10-02-08, 08:14 AM
#75
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another shot - btw, who is that handsome devil in the reflection? Luckily, it's an upper body reflection. don't tell anyone, I take all of my digital photos in the nude. lmao.