JZS147 swap thread
#37
#40
Hello,
To do it like the factory and be able to bolt the ECU down in the stock location, you need to extend the ECU and body harness wires on the engine wiring harness. I did 26 inches if I remember correctly. You might be able to "cheat" it and move the ecu up in the footwell, but why would you want to spend mutliple $1000's of dollars to give up on the wiring and do it ghetto?
CArl C
To do it like the factory and be able to bolt the ECU down in the stock location, you need to extend the ECU and body harness wires on the engine wiring harness. I did 26 inches if I remember correctly. You might be able to "cheat" it and move the ecu up in the footwell, but why would you want to spend mutliple $1000's of dollars to give up on the wiring and do it ghetto?
CArl C
#41
Racer
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,831
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To each his own Carl. Cutting the main ECU harness is more of a risk than an inconvenience IMO. Last time I read up on the SC swaps guys were crossing their fingers that the knock sensors would function properly after they soldered them together. My ECU is secured, grounded and under the factory plastic cover. If it keeps you up at night that it's not bolted to the factory mounts, extend it. But 26" is a bit much. The cabin harness was 20" and that is further than the ECU.
#42
Lexus Champion
Hello,
To do it like the factory and be able to bolt the ECU down in the stock location, you need to extend the ECU and body harness wires on the engine wiring harness. I did 26 inches if I remember correctly. You might be able to "cheat" it and move the ecu up in the footwell, but why would you want to spend mutliple $1000's of dollars to give up on the wiring and do it ghetto?
CArl C
To do it like the factory and be able to bolt the ECU down in the stock location, you need to extend the ECU and body harness wires on the engine wiring harness. I did 26 inches if I remember correctly. You might be able to "cheat" it and move the ecu up in the footwell, but why would you want to spend mutliple $1000's of dollars to give up on the wiring and do it ghetto?
CArl C
#44
24" sounds right. There is some risk that if you cut and splice the wires that are shielded, (such as the crank triggers and knock sensors) that you will lose the integrity of the signal. I always run new shielded wire for these important signal inputs.