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JZS147 swap thread

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Old 06-24-07, 06:29 PM   #31
Kaiser
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R7 is a resistor and you need to jump from one side to the other. It's just above the orange plug. I just reinstalled my US tach and jumped it. It is the solution!
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Old 06-25-07, 08:55 AM   #32
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youre right ..its just like i had to do with my 1jz sc.. just jump the resistor with a wire....it defenitely is the fix..pssh to mds tach adapter...Thanks alot guys!
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Old 06-30-07, 05:39 PM   #33
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Is this write up for if you just have the motor? What if I have the whole clip?
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Old 06-30-07, 07:13 PM   #34
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I had a half cut shipped to me for $2500. What did I miss in the thread that would be different?
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Old 06-30-07, 11:17 PM   #35
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I have no clue, I was just asking because you were talking about how we need all these parts and I figured they'd be on a clip...
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Old 08-03-07, 03:30 PM   #36
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how about a thread that shows how to wire?
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Old 08-08-07, 09:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
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how about a thread that shows how to wire?
Lol that would be a good thread, although I think it would be to much work for someone to write up.
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Old 09-13-07, 02:20 AM   #38
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I extended the body harness today ...Im seeing that im going to have to also do the ecu one also...Have you guys extended the ecu wires also ? Has anyone done this?
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Old 09-13-07, 08:40 AM   #39
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No I didn't. It 'barely' makes it. You can't bolt it down this way so I added a ground to the chassis of the ECU. What you could do is get a fields harness to extend it.
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Old 09-13-07, 09:26 AM   #40
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Hello,
To do it like the factory and be able to bolt the ECU down in the stock location, you need to extend the ECU and body harness wires on the engine wiring harness. I did 26 inches if I remember correctly. You might be able to "cheat" it and move the ecu up in the footwell, but why would you want to spend mutliple $1000's of dollars to give up on the wiring and do it ghetto?
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Old 09-13-07, 10:02 AM   #41
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To each his own Carl. Cutting the main ECU harness is more of a risk than an inconvenience IMO. Last time I read up on the SC swaps guys were crossing their fingers that the knock sensors would function properly after they soldered them together. My ECU is secured, grounded and under the factory plastic cover. If it keeps you up at night that it's not bolted to the factory mounts, extend it. But 26" is a bit much. The cabin harness was 20" and that is further than the ECU.
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Old 09-13-07, 10:41 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cacrawfo View Post
Hello,
To do it like the factory and be able to bolt the ECU down in the stock location, you need to extend the ECU and body harness wires on the engine wiring harness. I did 26 inches if I remember correctly. You might be able to "cheat" it and move the ecu up in the footwell, but why would you want to spend mutliple $1000's of dollars to give up on the wiring and do it ghetto?
CArl C
I heard someone else say 26" as well. I will be extending mine and I will do a write up, but it wont be till the end of the winter when I have all the parts gathered.
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Old 09-13-07, 10:04 PM   #43
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FWIW.. i did the extension on the main bundle, 24", before it passed thru the firewall.. and my ECU is bolted in the factory location. Dunno the big deal.. just cut and solder the extension into one wire at a time. And shrink wrap each end.
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Old 09-13-07, 10:19 PM   #44
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24" sounds right. There is some risk that if you cut and splice the wires that are shielded, (such as the crank triggers and knock sensors) that you will lose the integrity of the signal. I always run new shielded wire for these important signal inputs.
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Old 09-16-07, 07:22 PM   #45
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I'm swapping a JDM Aristo TT into my 93 GS300. My trans mount is TOAST on my swap, what trans mount do I order? One for the car, or one for the swap? Thanks,
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Old 09-16-07, 07:22 PM
 
 
 
 
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