Replacing fuel pump
12-26-05, 10:46 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by SuprRunner
Did you have problems with .040? Sound like I will probalby give that a try today, after I try a different coil.
Now that I can use my TIG(wife wouldn't let me use it until after christmas), I can start working on my TT intake adaptor and get rid of my crossover Y-pipe. Then it won't be so hard pulling the plugs out.
Now that I can use my TIG(wife wouldn't let me use it until after christmas), I can start working on my TT intake adaptor and get rid of my crossover Y-pipe. Then it won't be so hard pulling the plugs out.
12-27-05, 01:43 PM
#32
Sunroof Surfer
Originally Posted by SuprRunner
I dropped in the Walboro 255L pump. Works great. noisy though.
i have supra TT and its so much more quiter.. and yes im sorry u got the winnningboro... cuz thats what it does at all times very loud and its a big biatch to change that pump ..
FYI: any fuel pump u use for this particular car you must use a relay!
and my spark plugs are gapped at .28
10-04-06, 02:28 PM
#33
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i have supra TT and its so much more quiter.. and yes im sorry u got the winnningboro... cuz thats what it does at all times very loud and its a big biatch to change that pump ..
FYI: any fuel pump u use for this particular car you must use a relay!
and my spark plugs are gapped at .28
FYI: any fuel pump u use for this particular car you must use a relay!
and my spark plugs are gapped at .28
I am not too familiar with the relay setup, what must I do?
03-11-07, 10:45 AM
#35
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So it sounds like its not the normal easy replacement... any specific details on why the relay is needed? Where it need to be installed? In the middle of swapping pumps and came across this thread. Thanks
03-12-07, 08:31 AM
#38
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I will be doing external aeromotive 1000 this week. No more internal tank for me. I did find it MUCH easier to go through the back seat. Wasn't as hard as I had supposed. DO not go through the trunk, that is a PITA!!!
03-13-07, 06:07 PM
#39
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Something to be aware of using external fuel pumps...
they get "HOT" the infuel pumps are cooled off by the fuel itself.
Also, when you mount your external pump, you will hear the buzzing sound and sometimes may even feel the vibration.
There are various writeups about the pro's and con's of internal vs. external.
Its all a matter of choice.
Don't forget to use a good fuel filter, I like the see-thru ones for the obvious reason.
they get "HOT" the infuel pumps are cooled off by the fuel itself.
Also, when you mount your external pump, you will hear the buzzing sound and sometimes may even feel the vibration.
There are various writeups about the pro's and con's of internal vs. external.
Its all a matter of choice.
Don't forget to use a good fuel filter, I like the see-thru ones for the obvious reason.
03-13-07, 06:16 PM
#40
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many high performance 2JZGT's use colder plugs.
The NGK's are cheap and work just as good as the HKS's and or Denso iridiums. This too has been discussed in various forums.
For the younger tuners, you want to avoid detonation so proper fuel octane, fuel pressure, plugs and timing settings is critical in a performance setup.
The NGK's are cheap and work just as good as the HKS's and or Denso iridiums. This too has been discussed in various forums.
For the younger tuners, you want to avoid detonation so proper fuel octane, fuel pressure, plugs and timing settings is critical in a performance setup.
03-16-07, 03:39 PM
#41
Intermediate
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The Aermotive pumps are very large diameter pumps, and hold quite a bit of fuel to help with internal cooling, plus the RPM of the motor is much less due to increased size.
I ran a test last night. I let it run under 40psi for 2 hours(checking for leaks in my custom fuel rail). Anyway, after 2 hours of running, the pump was still cool to the touch. NO HEAT!!!
As for noise....I will build myself a rubber isolator, and I got myself a 1000 micron servicable filter that screws directly into the pump.
I will have to take more pictures of my current fuel setup. I welded a SS hard line to the inside of the pump access panel and then welded on an -8AN fitting on the outer side of the plate. I then run SS braided line to the trunk where it connects to the filter, the goes into the pump. From the pump I change to -8AN and run more braided line to a Y fitting under the intake manifold. I then have 2 -6AN fittings welded on each side of the stock fuel rail, and another in the center. The fuel comes from the Y splitter, enters the rail on either side, and exits through the center of the rail to an aeromotive pressure regulator. Then back into the tank using stock fuel lines.
Total cost around $800.
I will take pictures tonight.
I ran a test last night. I let it run under 40psi for 2 hours(checking for leaks in my custom fuel rail). Anyway, after 2 hours of running, the pump was still cool to the touch. NO HEAT!!!
As for noise....I will build myself a rubber isolator, and I got myself a 1000 micron servicable filter that screws directly into the pump.
I will have to take more pictures of my current fuel setup. I welded a SS hard line to the inside of the pump access panel and then welded on an -8AN fitting on the outer side of the plate. I then run SS braided line to the trunk where it connects to the filter, the goes into the pump. From the pump I change to -8AN and run more braided line to a Y fitting under the intake manifold. I then have 2 -6AN fittings welded on each side of the stock fuel rail, and another in the center. The fuel comes from the Y splitter, enters the rail on either side, and exits through the center of the rail to an aeromotive pressure regulator. Then back into the tank using stock fuel lines.
Total cost around $800.
I will take pictures tonight.
03-16-07, 04:26 PM
#42
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Very nice, your cost is well below my what I had done to my ride. great job!
The Aermotive pumps are very large diameter pumps, and hold quite a bit of fuel to help with internal cooling, plus the RPM of the motor is much less due to increased size.
I ran a test last night. I let it run under 40psi for 2 hours(checking for leaks in my custom fuel rail). Anyway, after 2 hours of running, the pump was still cool to the touch. NO HEAT!!!
As for noise....I will build myself a rubber isolator, and I got myself a 1000 micron servicable filter that screws directly into the pump.
I will have to take more pictures of my current fuel setup. I welded a SS hard line to the inside of the pump access panel and then welded on an -8AN fitting on the outer side of the plate. I then run SS braided line to the trunk where it connects to the filter, the goes into the pump. From the pump I change to -8AN and run more braided line to a Y fitting under the intake manifold. I then have 2 -6AN fittings welded on each side of the stock fuel rail, and another in the center. The fuel comes from the Y splitter, enters the rail on either side, and exits through the center of the rail to an aeromotive pressure regulator. Then back into the tank using stock fuel lines.
Total cost around $800.
I will take pictures tonight.
I ran a test last night. I let it run under 40psi for 2 hours(checking for leaks in my custom fuel rail). Anyway, after 2 hours of running, the pump was still cool to the touch. NO HEAT!!!
As for noise....I will build myself a rubber isolator, and I got myself a 1000 micron servicable filter that screws directly into the pump.
I will have to take more pictures of my current fuel setup. I welded a SS hard line to the inside of the pump access panel and then welded on an -8AN fitting on the outer side of the plate. I then run SS braided line to the trunk where it connects to the filter, the goes into the pump. From the pump I change to -8AN and run more braided line to a Y fitting under the intake manifold. I then have 2 -6AN fittings welded on each side of the stock fuel rail, and another in the center. The fuel comes from the Y splitter, enters the rail on either side, and exits through the center of the rail to an aeromotive pressure regulator. Then back into the tank using stock fuel lines.
Total cost around $800.
I will take pictures tonight.
03-16-07, 09:13 PM
#44
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You're smarter than me!
I was crying when I first purchased the HKS fule rail and SARD 800CC injectors and later was told that my build would require larger injectors and a bigger fuel rail. the HKS and the SARD injectors alone at the time I purchased them both were just shy of $1K. The SP fuel kit plus the labor are stupid expensive. I learned to expensive way.
Like many have said... big horse power is expensive and man who ever coined that phrase knew what they were saying!
06-17-10, 08:45 AM
#45
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i need to change pump as well. wouldn't it be easier to just undo the whole tank by removing the fill pipe and sending unit rather than going to the backseat? also, would a high pressure pump hurt in anyway the fuel pressure regulator or something else as, at the moment i only have a stock engine? (planning turbo soon, dont know exactly when though...)
with walbro i have following choices:
190LPH Fuel Pump is ideal for, low combustion stock engine, preferably un-modified.
255LPH Fuel Pump is ideal for slightly modified engines.
255LPH High Pressure Fuel Pump (forced induction) is ideal for superchargers, turbo chargers, and racing parts on a vehicle with up to 600 horse power.
thanks
with walbro i have following choices:
190LPH Fuel Pump is ideal for, low combustion stock engine, preferably un-modified.
255LPH Fuel Pump is ideal for slightly modified engines.
255LPH High Pressure Fuel Pump (forced induction) is ideal for superchargers, turbo chargers, and racing parts on a vehicle with up to 600 horse power.
thanks