Subtle clunking noise from front and rear end
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Subtle clunking noise from front and rear end
Recently picked up a CPO 2013 F-Sport and I've been experiencing a subtle clunking noise over sharp bumps (like raised expansion joints) or potholes at speed. It's a very subtle clunk that comes from the front and rear end, not attributable to any specific corner of the car.The sound completely disappears when I flip it to Sport+ mode, leading me to wonder if the noise is just inherent to the adjustable suspension. Additionally, I didn't notice the noise until after a new set of Michelin Pilot SSs which replaced some cheap dealer tires (Accelera Phis) with very soft sidewalls.
It's not an alarming noise but it does have 53K on the odo so I'm curious as to whether this is indicative of impending bushing/strut issues or if it's normal and other F-Sport owners experience the same noise.
Prior to this I had 2009 STi (low profile tires, stiffer suspension) and never heard any clunking type noise over these same bumps (expansion joints, potholes) so it does have me slightly worried.
Cheers.
It's not an alarming noise but it does have 53K on the odo so I'm curious as to whether this is indicative of impending bushing/strut issues or if it's normal and other F-Sport owners experience the same noise.
Prior to this I had 2009 STi (low profile tires, stiffer suspension) and never heard any clunking type noise over these same bumps (expansion joints, potholes) so it does have me slightly worried.
Cheers.
#5
All noises are the result of two surfaces making contact, period. I state this for your sanity. If you hear something, a clunk/thunk/creak/squeak, then something needs to be tightened/lubed/replaced. If a dealership says "it's nothing," don't buy it. As an engineer, I have had my fair-share of service advisors I wanted to throat-punch, believe me.
I had this clunking noise in the rear recently, and it was driving me insane. For me, so far, was the that the lug lock wasn't clipped into place all the way in it's plastic tray (which is located in the passenger-side of the trunk). At least that's the last thing I tried since I last heard the clunk.
If I hear it again, I will:
- verify everything in my trunk under the carpet is secure,
- think of all bolts that may have been loosened and re-torque them, i.e. re-torque my sway bar end links (I did my springs, so I know this is a place I would check first on my car).
- give up and take it to the dealership to be fixed.
CPO cars must go through an extensive inspection, required by Lexus, in order to be labeled a Lexus Certified Pre-Owned, AND get the CPO warranty. Since dealers can spend a lot to make these cars pass, they have no problem telling you. Ask them to see the CPO inspection to know what was done, say you need it to keep on top of the maintenance (you shouldn't need an excuse but just in case).
Check if the struts were replaced, or even one of them, which likely were by 53k miles. I'd bet a $3 bill that suspension work of some kind was done, and the sway bars weren't torqued properly. The sway bar end-link's bolts must not be tightened, let alone torqued to spec, until the car has all four wheels on the ground supporting the car's full weight. I did my own springs and forgot this and that subtle clunk drove me crazy until I re-torqued them correctly. Not talking big bumps, but just light ones like changes in pavement height, expansion joints, potholes, etc.
If you're handy with a wrench and have car ramps:
- drive one axle at a time onto the ramps
- loosen the strut bar nuts, releasing the bind
- tighten the strut bar nuts
- torque to spec
- repeat with other axle if needed
Or, just have the dealership do it, you have a 3 year 100k warranty. If it's a non-wear and tear item they will fix it. If it is a wear and tear item, ask them why the item wasn't replaced via the CPO certification process.
It's not the tires themselves so you can cross them off the list. However, the installation itself might have loosened the problem. Not the tire place's fault at all, but they do lift the car into the air, which "resets," if you will, the suspension geometry. In time, your suspension might have settled into place, reducing the noise, and when the car was lifted into the air, this all started over.
You're correct in that it is not alarming, and correct to at least be concerned. If your dealership gives you too much trouble, or cannot diagnose it, take it to another dealership.
And this is how your GS should be, so let your STi the bar and make sure your GS exceeds it.
With RS*R Superdowns, FIGS rear uppers, Sport+ mode, and s****y Seattle streets, I have no clunks/squeaks/rattles. Settle for nothing less.
If I hear it again, I will:
- verify everything in my trunk under the carpet is secure,
- think of all bolts that may have been loosened and re-torque them, i.e. re-torque my sway bar end links (I did my springs, so I know this is a place I would check first on my car).
- give up and take it to the dealership to be fixed.
Recently picked up a CPO 2013 F-Sport and I've been experiencing a subtle clunking noise over sharp bumps (like raised expansion joints) or potholes at speed. It's a very subtle clunk that comes from the front and rear end, not attributable to any specific corner of the car.The sound completely disappears when I flip it to Sport+ mode, leading me to wonder if the noise is just inherent to the adjustable suspension.
...
...
Check if the struts were replaced, or even one of them, which likely were by 53k miles. I'd bet a $3 bill that suspension work of some kind was done, and the sway bars weren't torqued properly. The sway bar end-link's bolts must not be tightened, let alone torqued to spec, until the car has all four wheels on the ground supporting the car's full weight. I did my own springs and forgot this and that subtle clunk drove me crazy until I re-torqued them correctly. Not talking big bumps, but just light ones like changes in pavement height, expansion joints, potholes, etc.
If you're handy with a wrench and have car ramps:
- drive one axle at a time onto the ramps
- loosen the strut bar nuts, releasing the bind
- tighten the strut bar nuts
- torque to spec
- repeat with other axle if needed
Or, just have the dealership do it, you have a 3 year 100k warranty. If it's a non-wear and tear item they will fix it. If it is a wear and tear item, ask them why the item wasn't replaced via the CPO certification process.
...
Additionally, I didn't notice the noise until after a new set of Michelin Pilot SSs which replaced some cheap dealer tires (Accelera Phis) with very soft sidewalls.
It's not an alarming noise but it does have 53K on the odo so I'm curious as to whether this is indicative of impending bushing/strut issues or if it's normal and other F-Sport owners experience the same noise.
...
Additionally, I didn't notice the noise until after a new set of Michelin Pilot SSs which replaced some cheap dealer tires (Accelera Phis) with very soft sidewalls.
It's not an alarming noise but it does have 53K on the odo so I'm curious as to whether this is indicative of impending bushing/strut issues or if it's normal and other F-Sport owners experience the same noise.
...
You're correct in that it is not alarming, and correct to at least be concerned. If your dealership gives you too much trouble, or cannot diagnose it, take it to another dealership.
With RS*R Superdowns, FIGS rear uppers, Sport+ mode, and s****y Seattle streets, I have no clunks/squeaks/rattles. Settle for nothing less.
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signdetres (12-10-20)
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
All noises are the result of two surfaces making contact, period. I state this for your sanity. If you hear something, a clunk/thunk/creak/squeak, then something needs to be tightened/lubed/replaced. If a dealership says "it's nothing," don't buy it. As an engineer, I have had my fair-share of service advisors I wanted to throat-punch, believe me.
I had this clunking noise in the rear recently, and it was driving me insane. For me, so far, was the that the lug lock wasn't clipped into place all the way in it's plastic tray (which is located in the passenger-side of the trunk). At least that's the last thing I tried since I last heard the clunk.
If I hear it again, I will:
- verify everything in my trunk under the carpet is secure,
- think of all bolts that may have been loosened and re-torque them, i.e. re-torque my sway bar end links (I did my springs, so I know this is a place I would check first on my car).
- give up and take it to the dealership to be fixed.
CPO cars must go through an extensive inspection, required by Lexus, in order to be labeled a Lexus Certified Pre-Owned, AND get the CPO warranty. Since dealers can spend a lot to make these cars pass, they have no problem telling you. Ask them to see the CPO inspection to know what was done, say you need it to keep on top of the maintenance (you shouldn't need an excuse but just in case).
Check if the struts were replaced, or even one of them, which likely were by 53k miles. I'd bet a $3 bill that suspension work of some kind was done, and the sway bars weren't torqued properly. The sway bar end-link's bolts must not be tightened, let alone torqued to spec, until the car has all four wheels on the ground supporting the car's full weight. I did my own springs and forgot this and that subtle clunk drove me crazy until I re-torqued them correctly. Not talking big bumps, but just light ones like changes in pavement height, expansion joints, potholes, etc.
If you're handy with a wrench and have car ramps:
- drive one axle at a time onto the ramps
- loosen the strut bar nuts, releasing the bind
- tighten the strut bar nuts
- torque to spec
- repeat with other axle if needed
Or, just have the dealership do it, you have a 3 year 100k warranty. If it's a non-wear and tear item they will fix it. If it is a wear and tear item, ask them why the item wasn't replaced via the CPO certification process.
It's not the tires themselves so you can cross them off the list. However, the installation itself might have loosened the problem. Not the tire place's fault at all, but they do lift the car into the air, which "resets," if you will, the suspension geometry. In time, your suspension might have settled into place, reducing the noise, and when the car was lifted into the air, this all started over.
You're correct in that it is not alarming, and correct to at least be concerned. If your dealership gives you too much trouble, or cannot diagnose it, take it to another dealership.
And this is how your GS should be, so let your STi the bar and make sure your GS exceeds it.
With RS*R Superdowns, FIGS rear uppers, Sport+ mode, and s****y Seattle streets, I have no clunks/squeaks/rattles. Settle for nothing less.
I had this clunking noise in the rear recently, and it was driving me insane. For me, so far, was the that the lug lock wasn't clipped into place all the way in it's plastic tray (which is located in the passenger-side of the trunk). At least that's the last thing I tried since I last heard the clunk.
If I hear it again, I will:
- verify everything in my trunk under the carpet is secure,
- think of all bolts that may have been loosened and re-torque them, i.e. re-torque my sway bar end links (I did my springs, so I know this is a place I would check first on my car).
- give up and take it to the dealership to be fixed.
CPO cars must go through an extensive inspection, required by Lexus, in order to be labeled a Lexus Certified Pre-Owned, AND get the CPO warranty. Since dealers can spend a lot to make these cars pass, they have no problem telling you. Ask them to see the CPO inspection to know what was done, say you need it to keep on top of the maintenance (you shouldn't need an excuse but just in case).
Check if the struts were replaced, or even one of them, which likely were by 53k miles. I'd bet a $3 bill that suspension work of some kind was done, and the sway bars weren't torqued properly. The sway bar end-link's bolts must not be tightened, let alone torqued to spec, until the car has all four wheels on the ground supporting the car's full weight. I did my own springs and forgot this and that subtle clunk drove me crazy until I re-torqued them correctly. Not talking big bumps, but just light ones like changes in pavement height, expansion joints, potholes, etc.
If you're handy with a wrench and have car ramps:
- drive one axle at a time onto the ramps
- loosen the strut bar nuts, releasing the bind
- tighten the strut bar nuts
- torque to spec
- repeat with other axle if needed
Or, just have the dealership do it, you have a 3 year 100k warranty. If it's a non-wear and tear item they will fix it. If it is a wear and tear item, ask them why the item wasn't replaced via the CPO certification process.
It's not the tires themselves so you can cross them off the list. However, the installation itself might have loosened the problem. Not the tire place's fault at all, but they do lift the car into the air, which "resets," if you will, the suspension geometry. In time, your suspension might have settled into place, reducing the noise, and when the car was lifted into the air, this all started over.
You're correct in that it is not alarming, and correct to at least be concerned. If your dealership gives you too much trouble, or cannot diagnose it, take it to another dealership.
And this is how your GS should be, so let your STi the bar and make sure your GS exceeds it.
With RS*R Superdowns, FIGS rear uppers, Sport+ mode, and s****y Seattle streets, I have no clunks/squeaks/rattles. Settle for nothing less.
#7
does it have anything to do with turning sharply at slow speeds? I ask because I hear and feel clunking in the front wheels when I turn sharply in reverse like when I back out of a parking spot. Dealer says "everything is normal" but it clearly isnt.. i had a buddy check it out briefly with a quick test drive, he is a mechanic, he thinks something may be binding in the CV joint.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
I have it on my brand new '15 Fsport. I can only hear it when my window is down, and I am going over a bump. I think someone mentioned it could be the 2-piece rotor design causing the rattle. Sounds plausible.
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cabello (04-25-21)
#9
Driver School Candidate
i have the same issue with my 14 f sport. i only hear it when my window is rolled down and driving 30mph. it's annoying. on my wife's 13 gs350, no rattle. Do the rotors need to be tightened or someting?
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cabello (04-25-21)
#10
Driver School Candidate
Im experiencing this clunk more now. Bought the car at 80k and it had a slight clunk over bumps from the front end. Not much so didnt address it. Until the other day i had the car in the air to see what it was.
Everything i could tell was tight. BUT this clunk is getting pretty loud and annoying.
Are you saying above to torque the sway bar links with the car on its wheels could be the issue?
Any direction would be appreciated. I dont want to buy new struts if it doesn't need considering the price.
thanks
Everything i could tell was tight. BUT this clunk is getting pretty loud and annoying.
Are you saying above to torque the sway bar links with the car on its wheels could be the issue?
Any direction would be appreciated. I dont want to buy new struts if it doesn't need considering the price.
thanks
#11
Driver School Candidate
Im experiencing this clunk more now. Bought the car at 80k and it had a slight clunk over bumps from the front end. Not much so didnt address it. Until the other day i had the car in the air to see what it was.
Everything i could tell was tight. BUT this clunk is getting pretty loud and annoying.
Are you saying above to torque the sway bar links with the car on its wheels could be the issue?
Any direction would be appreciated. I dont want to buy new struts if it doesn't need considering the price.
thanks
Everything i could tell was tight. BUT this clunk is getting pretty loud and annoying.
Are you saying above to torque the sway bar links with the car on its wheels could be the issue?
Any direction would be appreciated. I dont want to buy new struts if it doesn't need considering the price.
thanks
Part No.: 04945-30340, SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEA x1
Part No.: 47748-22460, SPRING, ANTI-RATTLE x2
Part No.: 47735-50020, PIN, DISC BRAKE PAD x2
#13
Driver School Candidate
#14
After replacing all my ball joints in the front end, the lighter clunking sound was from the blown front struts. There was no oil at the main body of the struts, it was leaking at the valve adjuster up top. Tricky leaks!
#15
Driver School Candidate
So my wife's 15 fsport rwd started making a kinda of clunk noise in the rear only at slow speeds and over bumps the car after I had the dealer install pilot sports and do a alignment. I own a auto repair shop and have had it in the air many times and can not find anything loose or damaged. But judging by what I read above the struts will make that noise? So if anyone has a better idea on how to deal with this I would love to know. Why said she thought it was a strut issue but I have never seen that happen before but then again I have never really dealt with adjustable suspension before.
Side note has anymore figured out how to get the suspension to go into S+ mode but keep the engine in normal or eco? I like the ride of S+ but don't always want to have high hp mode
Side note has anymore figured out how to get the suspension to go into S+ mode but keep the engine in normal or eco? I like the ride of S+ but don't always want to have high hp mode