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2015 GS350 F-Sport lease - about to pull the trigger... should I?

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Old 11-18-15, 06:48 PM
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kincaidkmf
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Default 2015 GS350 F-Sport lease - about to pull the trigger... should I?

Hey everyone! I was offered a lease of $0 down, $699/mo for 36 @ 15k/year. MSRP is $57,960.00.

Options:
  • BLIND SPOT MONITOR
  • F SPORT PACKAGE
  • LEXUS HDD NAVIGATION SYSTEM
  • INTUITIVE PARK ASSIST (IPA)
  • PREFERRED ACCESSORY PACKAGE (Z2)
Is this good? Bad? Ugly?

I'm also trying them to get one that's basically the same, but with the ML stereo from a few states away, MSRP $59,870. Any thoughts on what I should shoot for with that one?
Old 11-18-15, 07:16 PM
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KJD3
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Not sure what your lease deals are in your area but I got the same exact car for $475 a month, with $0 down, 15,000 miles a year, and $32k. lease buyout (part of my employee discount). You can do better.
Old 11-19-15, 12:45 AM
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dchar
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In SoCal, a lease for that car would probably be in the mid $500s per month. You can do a lot better. Is this tier 1 pricing?
Old 11-19-15, 03:26 AM
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cmdace18
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Originally Posted by dchar
In SoCal, a lease for that car would probably be in the mid $500s per month. You can do a lot better. Is this tier 1 pricing?
I second this for Florida. That car, those specs with a 36/15 I would expect somewhere around $525 to $550 max. Especially with 16's coming out. If you can wait til December, I bet you could get that car $500 out the door.
Old 11-19-15, 05:37 AM
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jtrue28
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Wow, yeah that deal is awful OP. Good grief. Depending on your credit, you should be able to get that down to $500.

Especially on a 2015. December to Remember just started. Keep working them, or go somewhere else.
Old 11-19-15, 07:18 AM
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boa1977
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I just bought mine F-Sport for same MSRP for $537/month with $0 down. All taxes included.
Old 11-19-15, 11:48 AM
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kincaidkmf
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I think they gave me a crappy APR. I asked for the APR and residual, and of course they want me to come in to give me those numbers. Also, FWIW, I have a pretty high credit rating (above 720).

After seeing the deals you all are reporting, no way am I accepting $699/month (which was originally $725). I'm in touch with a few other dealerships now, hopefully something will come together soon, I'd love to have this worked out before Thanksgiving.
Old 11-19-15, 12:05 PM
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kincaidkmf
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Just got another dealer come out of the gate at $669/mo on a $59,340.00 MSRP. I'm really glad I asked. She's now trying to get south of $600.
Old 11-19-15, 12:12 PM
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Starterman
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If I were you I wouldn't negotiate off that monthly payment but instead the sales price of the car. They get you with the monthly payment easily by selling you the price of the car to match your "desired" monthly payment which can result in overpaying for a car. My two cents.

BTW, The December to Remember event is happening. I have seen quite a few people on these forums get 8-10k off msrp easily. Maybe try to email new dealers or one's out of state that have large volumes of GS vehicles- they will likely lower price to move the 15s off the lot.
Old 11-19-15, 03:18 PM
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jtrue28
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Yeah, one of the other threads, dude got a $56K F-Sport for $47K. You need to work on the sale price....don't negotiate on the payment. The payment will work itself out once you have all the other numbers tied down.

Good luck.

Take the money factor they give you and multiply by 2400...that will give you the % rate of the lease. If your credit score is high, you should qualify for the best money factor.

If you wait until after Thanksgiving, you may get a better deal. They'll be wanting to get their sale volumes up before the end of the month.
Old 11-20-15, 06:23 PM
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kincaidkmf
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Oh, what fun. Down to $578 now.

What I told them I wanted was an atomic/black GS350 F-Sport with ML, and they found one a few states away they could get. I asked for all of the numbers behind the $578/mo, and they were forthcoming (59,400 MSRP / 9500 discount and rebate combined / .00087 MF / 32,661 residual / taxes and tags are not included).

HOWEVER, once I showed up to the dealership ready to sign papers, it turns out the girl gave me the wrong residual percentage (she said 62%, and it was really 55%), and the car I wanted was sold (it'd been sold all day, it wasn't like it was sold in the lag time). So, bad taste in my mouth from that dealership.

Now my only choice--if I stick to that color and options--is to get a car across the country and ship it, at additional expense. Then I have to worry about my current car, which the local dealers are offering $2k more than CarMax did. Getting a different color isn't the end of the world... I can live happily with black/black.

Not really sure what my next move is. Call Seattle and ask them to knock 11k off the car's price, and ship it to Baltimore, or compromise and get a black car (this would be my 6th black car in a row). Local dealer doesn't want to give up any more money, but we'll see what happens tomorrow.

Last edited by kincaidkmf; 11-20-15 at 06:26 PM.
Old 11-20-15, 08:12 PM
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jkeller
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Originally Posted by kincaidkmf
I think they gave me a crappy APR. I asked for the APR and residual, and of course they want me to come in to give me those numbers. Also, FWIW, I have a pretty high credit rating (above 720).

After seeing the deals you all are reporting, no way am I accepting $699/month (which was originally $725). I'm in touch with a few other dealerships now, hopefully something will come together soon, I'd love to have this worked out before Thanksgiving.
I have never leased a car so I'm no help to you there. You mentioned the dealer giving you a bad APR. Is your 720 credit score a true FICO score? One that you got from myfico.com? A lot of folks get scores from other sources, like credit karma, but only a FICO score from Fair Issac is a FICO score. Good luck.

And the Mark Levinson is worth it, I have it and love it.
Old 11-21-15, 08:04 AM
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I made a verbal commitment to the nearby dealer at $579, with them covering taxes, tags, freight (we have to ship one from Boston, after they already shipped the wrong one), and first payment.

I landed on my second choice: 2015 GS 350 F-Sport Black/Black with Mark Levinson. I'm still a happy camper, even if I still have to wait a few days till I'm driving it off the lot.
Old 11-21-15, 08:31 AM
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SC300Es
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Originally Posted by Starterman
If I were you I wouldn't negotiate off that monthly payment but instead the sales price of the car. They get you with the monthly payment easily by selling you the price of the car to match your "desired" monthly payment which can result in overpaying for a car. My two cents.

BTW, The December to Remember event is happening. I have seen quite a few people on these forums get 8-10k off msrp easily. Maybe try to email new dealers or one's out of state that have large volumes of GS vehicles- they will likely lower price to move the 15s off the lot.
But if they get him to $500-550/month that most people seem to get why would you have to worry about the sales price? I know people always preach that you should negotiate the capitalized cost but if you have no intentions of purchasing at the end of the lease, wouldn't you just negotiate a low monthly?

Just curious.

Ed
Old 11-21-15, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SC300Es
But if they get him to $500-550/month that most people seem to get why would you have to worry about the sales price? I know people always preach that you should negotiate the capitalized cost but if you have no intentions of purchasing at the end of the lease, wouldn't you just negotiate a low monthly?

Just curious.

Ed
Hey sc300,

The truth is, car dealerships don't make much money on the sale of a new vehicle. Their profit usually comes from financing, trade-ins, and add-ons such as warranties and service contracts. If you're only focused on the monthly payment, the dealer can adjust the purchase price, the interest, terms on the financing, and the trade-in allowance to get you the exact monthly payment you're looking for.

The problem is, you'll get ripped off. It's easy for a dealer to get you practically any monthly payment you want - all they have to do is extend the car loan or low-ball you on the trade-in, or any number of other tricks. This is also why it's important to keep all new car transactions separate including trade ins even for a lease. No one ever wants to over pay for a product.

I normally use true car, edmunds price promise as starting points for negotiations and go from there. Hope this helps.

For more info check out this link:
http://www.thecarconnection.com/news...price--part-ii

Last edited by Starterman; 11-21-15 at 04:31 PM. Reason: Add link


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