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Sooooo......I know oil gets talked to death. And maybe I picked up info on here that related to another model, but somewhere I got the impression that folks were using 5W-30 in the 4th Gen GS. I just bought a '13, and I have 3 cases of Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 from Amazon on the way, after reading this morning in the manual that 0-20 is called for.
I live in MD where the winters are not nearly as cold as some other parts of the country. Is the recommended viscosity due solely to cold starts or is it more valve related? I will return the oil and get the 0-20 if that's the consensus. Thanks!!
Sooooo......I know oil gets talked to death. And maybe I picked up info on here that related to another model, but somewhere I got the impression that folks were using 5W-30 in the 4th Gen GS. I just bought a '13, and I have 3 cases of Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 from Amazon on the way, after reading this morning in the manual that 0-20 is called for.
I live in MD where the winters are not nearly as cold as some other parts of the country. Is the recommended viscosity due solely to cold starts or is it more valve related? I will return the oil and get the 0-20 if that's the consensus. Thanks!!
The engine is designed for 0W-20 engine oil in terms of bearing clearances and the like. That said, you would probably be okay with the 5W-30 in warmer months, but during cold weather the higher viscosity 5W-30 oil may cause a bit more 'cold-start' bearing wear when you first crank-up the engine after it's been sitting overnight. The engine's VVT-i OCV (Oil Control Valve) has a tight metal mesh filter and quite small oil ports that are used to control the variable valve timing of the engine - higher viscosity oil has been known to cause issues with the OVC, and it might cause the OCV not to operate as it should, especially during early engine warm-up and generally during cold ambient weather.
If you decide to use the [incorrect] 5W-30 engine oil I would suggest mixing it with proper 0W-20 engine oil to reach a happy medium grade of ~2½W-25. The engine takes 6.8 quarts (with filter change), so I'd use 4 quarts of 0W-20 with 3 quarts of the 5W-30, or visa-versa.
Mobil 1 0W-20 for me, I test it with a home oil analyzer that checks Total Base Number (TBN), at 15,000 miles it finally got to a 9 with 1 being new and 10 being change. I kept to the 10,000 mile interval when it was under warranty but now that I've got 60k on it there seems to be no point. A friend of mine runs his oil (also Mobil 1) to 20,000 between changes on his Chevy Tahoe and has over 160,000 miles on it. The 3,000 mile change rule was for mineral oil, poorer manufacturing specifications, and a moneymaker for quick lube shops. https://www.amazon.com/Lubricheck-Mo...s=oil+analyzer
We've got a Jeep GC with the 5.7 HEMI. We use Pennzoil Platinum and can't tell the difference between it and Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. Chrysler uses Pennzoil Platinum from the factory so will keep using it. May try it in the GS too?
Bingo! This is engraved is many folk's heads, even my 20 year old daughter. I say read the manual, on most older cars, they say around 7500 miles with conventional, under 'normal' conditions. I guess the normal conditions protects them from poor oil related failures? Anyway, this 3K interval is a major scam in my opinion!
Oh, and keeping on topic, +1 for Mobil 1 0w-20 with OEM filter. Did that on my wife's 2011 RX350, at 90K miles now (I know that isn't saying anything yet, can't brag until 200K + miles.)
I like German Castrol OW 30 because it is a true Group 4 synthetic you don't have to pay a lot for and can get at auto stores though it is a little difficult to find opposed to highly refined US synthetic blends you find at auto stores. If I can't get the German Castrol I use Mobil 1 5W 30 because it is good oil, cheap, and can be found everywhere.
I would like to use the OW 30 Castrol in a 4th GS or LS460 when I get it but I may research a little more to see if it is ideal or if I should just go with a OW 20 like the manual says.
My wife used to work for Schaeffer and she swears by this stuff; she has witnessed the various wear test and says absolutely nothing can compare.
As with most forum fueled debates, whether it's motor oil, paint protectants, or tires, every forum seems to develop a following for something, like the Camaro LS1 forum I ran with for a while swore by Zaino products. She says that the Harley Davidson guys were really big on Schaeffer, but then a Harley needs all the help it can get.
Me personally, I've always been a Valvoline oil and Wix (NAPA) or Mahle filter guy (anything, for the love of God, ANYTHING other than Fram).
I used, mobl1, royal purple, amsoil. I would say royal purple win out of the 3 for me since I see my car mpg is at 17.8 and moble1 is at 17.5? amsoil is at 15.5 and I see that it rev way faster and higher compare to others. I might try Pennzoil ultra this time and see.
I used, mobl1, royal purple, amsoil. I would say royal purple win out of the 3 for me since I see my car mpg is at 17.8 and moble1 is at 17.5? amsoil is at 15.5 and I see that it rev way faster and higher compare to others. I might try Pennzoil ultra this time and see.
I drive the **** out of my cars, trucks and motorcycles. I highly recommend Pennzoil Pure Plus 0w20. It uses the cleanest base stock available in the market, from Natural Gas. Additionally, i noticed a 1mpg improvement which, to me, translates to better lubricity. I was using Mobil 1 before that. Drivetrain a little quieter now and the oil still relatively clean when i change it. This is the oil is what comes factory in Ferrari's now.
Wasn't the oil recommendation for the 3rd Gen GS and IS350 5W30 but then they had a TSB to use 5W20 a few years later? Now they say OW20 for the 4th Gen. This sounds more like placing the most priority on fuel economy over engine protection. In hotter climates I would feel safer using a OW30 over a OW20. Does anyone use OW30 for their 4th Gen GS, OW30 German Castrol is a full synthetic which is rare to find at auto parts stores where most "synthetic" oil is a highly refined semi synthetic.
Most useful post in this entire thread. Yes, my 2007 IS350 I bought new had 5-30w printed on the metal oil fill cap. A few months after i bought it Lexus started recommending 0-30w oil for environmental reasons. (higher gas mileage)
I used Castrol 5-30w full synthetic in my IS350 for the 96k miles I owned it & i use the same in my 2015 GS F-Sport. Same engine why would I use different oil? Filters?? Wix is supposed to be the best but i have used them all, dosen't seem to make any difference as long as i'm changing every 5,k miles. And yes I change the oil personally, who else is going to allow the old oil to drain longer.
This is important stuff, don't take my word for it, search Bob the oil guy forum or similar, read all you can & make your own Informed decision.
Most useful post in this entire thread. Yes, my 2007 IS350 I bought new had 5-30w printed on the metal oil fill cap. A few months after i bought it Lexus started recommending 0-30w oil for environmental reasons. (higher gas mileage)
I used Castrol 5-30w full synthetic in my IS350 for the 96k miles I owned it & i use the same in my 2015 GS F-Sport. Same engine why would I use different oil? Filters?? Wix is supposed to be the best but i have used them all, dosen't seem to make any difference as long as i'm changing every 5,k miles. And yes I change the oil personally, who else is going to allow the old oil to drain longer.
This is important stuff, don't take my word for it, search Bob the oil guy forum or similar, read all you can & make your own Informed decision.
0W-30 and 5W-30 has the same viscosity at normal full operating temperature of 100°C (212°F). The last number is the viscosity at 100°C. For example, 0W-30, 5W-30 10W-30 all have the same viscosity at normal operating temperature.
The first number (0W, 5W, 10W, etc.) is the viscosity at the cold temperature specified. A 0W oil will provide quicker lubrication to bearings on cold starts (compared to 5W, 10W, etc.), which is when an engine's bearings are most likely to be damaged due to dry metal-on-metal contact due to [cold start] oil starvation.
Car makers moved to 20 weight viscosity engine oil for better fuel mileage. Some adjusted the bear clearances a bit, some didn't. The 20 weight viscosity engine oil provides more than ample lubrication for a long engine life. The move to 0W engine oils do more to prolong engine life because it reduces wear where the wear is most prevalent - cold starts.
Car makers moved to 20 weight viscosity engine oil for better fuel mileage. Some adjusted the bear clearances a bit, some didn't. The 20 weight viscosity engine oil provides more than ample lubrication for a long engine life. The move to 0W engine oils do more to prolong engine life because it reduces wear where the wear is most prevalent - cold starts.[/QUOTE]
Depends upon the climate where you operate your vehicle. Drink the Kool-aid if you wish.
Last edited by Byprodrive; 04-02-17 at 11:44 AM.
Reason: Clarify what i was commenting on
08-28-16, 05:15 AM
