rumcajs997

Hi Guys,

I am new here and new in Lexus owners family Just bought 2007 GS300 2 weeks ago. Generally the car is brilliant, I just want to sort out couple of things so it can be perfect. Millage - 65000 with full Lexus history.

One thing that I didn`t notice during test drive (even when I was checking quite thoroughly) is the issue while changing the gear from 1st to 2nd at very low speed and very low rpm (like driving on the car park or in heavy traffic when you are barely touching the pedal). I can notice a jerk then but only at very low rpm. If you start to normally accelerate then the change is smooth.

I have done some research and found couple of solutions:

1) Disconnect the battery for couple of minutes - I have tried and it didn`t change anything

2) Change gearbox oil - I want to try now (read below)

3) Ask Lexus if there is new version of software for this gearbox - I have found something like that for LS430 - http://repairpal.com/poor-shift-qual...low-speeds-550

My question is what type of oil would you recon and where can I buy some top quality one as I don`t want to safe on such important thing. I know that it needs to be some Toyota WS type and I found something like that - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-MI...2G-DwfxWlczihA - but I don`t know this brand at all. Do you know anything about this one ?

The second question is about oil filter, is it possible to change it in this gearbox without opening it ? If yes, where can I buy such filter?

Thanks for the answer and any suggestions guys

brucelee1

iTrader: (2)

I had the dealer flush my ATF. It did make a difference in how smoothly the car runs.

Sodium

The only fluid you should put into your transmission is Genuine Toyota ATF WS. I did a series of four drain and fills a few thousand miles ago – I picked up 13 quarts from the local Toyota dealer for around $120. It's very subtle, but I did notice a difference, especially between the first and second drain/fill. If you don't work on your own cars, take it to a Toyota or Lexus dealer and have them do a flush as brucelee1 suggested. From what I've seen here, most members have taken their cars to Toyota dealerships to do the flush since Lexus dealerships are generally either unwilling to do or not properly equipped for the procedure.

As for the filter, you do need to drop the pan to replace it. It's probably not necessary with only 65,000 miles.

pbxcomm

Are you absolutely certain this issue between 1st and 2nd gear is a transmission/Gearcase issue? Its most likely not and if so is very rare..
You could be down on power.. Low speed miss, poor fuel, spark plug change recently? If you are down on power, the engine/Gearcase will loose its sync somewhat, that is, the transmission will expect certain power torgue/curve form the motor @ 1st gear and 2nd gear as well.. If this is not the case, shifting from 1st to second may be late and/or
lag due to misfire.. The dealer or shop with Techstream can check for any cylinder misfires at any RPM. I would check this before messing with the gearcase/transmission oil.

pbxcomm

Also, check for carbon at the throttle body. Carbon buildup could prevent the air valve (butterfly) to close all the way or remain partially open @ idle.

rumcajs997

Thanks guys for those answers.

I am not 100% sure if it is a gearbox issue, but considering regular service and millage that is not very high for that type of car, I am rather going towards gearbox. I was planning to change the oil anyway because it is about time (65.000 miles) and since sometimes it is sorting that type of problems out I thought that it might be a reasonable first step (would be great if it was the last one ).

Regarding misfire, I have got this car for 2 weeks so I can`t say much but I have noticed once some small vibration and small rpm fluctuation on idle when I turned on the engine after few hours that were gone when I pressed the pedal to increase rpm, but after like 30s it was gone. There was a major 60.000 service done in December last year by previous owner but I can`t see spark plugs on the list, so probably they are in from new.

What do you mean by "Low speed miss" ? And regarding Techstream, I found something like that - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Newest-V8-3...rds=Techstream

+ this link with software - https://www.toyota-tech.eu/GTS/Wizar...-Software.aspx . Do you know if this cable will work with such type of software ?

I will check the throttle tomorrow as well, because it was very rainy today

Thanks

pbxcomm

Correct.. Techstream can be placed in record mode and record any misfires on any or all cylinders. Has your engine light come on? Techstream will also show past and present codes if they (codes) had been cleared prior.
The cord I use is "J-Horse" Mini-VCI J2534..
BTW, that's not enough mileage to lean or suspect a gearbox problem. Most of us Lexus owners are well in to 6 figures for mileage with no gearbox issues whatsoever. What you explaining reads like a fuel/air delivery issue. Try Seafoam in the tank @ 1 OZ per gallon of fuel @ two tanks total. This will clean your primary fuel delivery system along with
injectors.
I refer to the low speed miss as a miss that typically occurs when the throttle plate is completely closed as in idle. The plate MUST BE CLOSED at idle.. If not, fuel/air mixture will be abnormal, either too rich or too lean. When the engine is started it goes in to "open loop" or slightly rich (more fuel than air) when the engine warms (typically above 105 degrees) the fuel system goes to "closed loop",. That said, throttle position can have an affect on transition from open to closed loop as rough idle or rough running. Does this issue improve when the engine is warm, but may not completely disappear?

I would run some seafoam first, then look at Techstream for more answers.

rumcajs997

Right, so:

1) No lights comming on the dash.
2) I bought the cable - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3218202313...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT , I will check if it works with Lexus once I have got it
3) I bought SeaFoam + some other stuff - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2820613834...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT + http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3505461951...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT . They say that this BG something is good as well so I took it. Awaiting delivery.
4) I wanted to check throttle but I realised that I haven`t got tools to remove the engine cover LOL. It was a good oportunity to finally buy some tools set so I have got it in the future. Awaiting delivery
5) Regarding this jerk on cold and warm engine it is hard to say because it is not some massive jerk to clearly spot the difference (but definitely something not right comparing to other gears), I would say it might be more noticeable while cold but it won`t be a big difference.

I need to check as well the voltage that alternator is giving the battery as I noticed rpm going down for a second when I turn on "long lights" (not sure how to name it in English) - my normal IDLE RPM is like 650, but when I blinked couple of times to some other car to let him go, I noticed that rpm is going down to around 500 while blinking and you can even feel engine vibration. If you normally turn those lights on, rpm goes down for maybe a second and then is back normal, but it is annoying when just blinking as it is not enough time for computer to adjust rpm. It is a bit strange but I have never had something like that in other cars - if this desctription makes any sense

pbxcomm

The symptom your describing is interesting. Low voltage will wreak havoc on the engines electrical system.
How old is your battery?
A good check would be starting at the alternator, they are a pain to remove and replace however.
I have experienced low voltage on vehicles, low enough that there is no DC left to run the ignition and the car dies at idle. If your lights go dim at 3000 RPM and above when adding additional load, then I would suspect an alternator problem. This is where Techstream is useful as it will indicate low voltage
and could reveal the source such as a battery.

Sodium

Long lights = high beams

If you had an alternator issue, usually your only symptom is a dead battery, or flickering lights and strange electrical problems. If you haven't cleaned the throttle body already, definitely try that – you may even want to take the TB out so you can clean it as thoroughly as possible. Also, it may be a good idea to clean the MAF sensor, and check the engine air filter and replace it if it's dirty. Sounds like pbxcomm is right about it being intake-related.

Also, you don't need any tools except a screwdriver and pliers to get the engine covers off – the silver one covering the intake manifold comes off just by pulling it up, and the black ones have clips that you can remove by hand (pushing on the circular part in the middle of the clip), or just need to be pried out with a flathead screwdriver and needlenosed pliers.

Also, it could be the spark plugs are a bit past their prime and need to be changed.

rumcajs997

Once I have got all the stuff I will try with throttle body. I assume that WD40 should be OK for cleaning ? Is it safe to spray such WD40 once this throttle is installed or it is better to remove it before ? Regarding this MAF sensor I found something like that - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRC-200ML-...EAAOSwqYBWm~cZ - I might buy it as well, just couple of quids

Sodium

I use a cleaner specific for the throttle body to clean mine. WD40 probably isn't a good choice since it's an oil, and the deposits on the throttle plate come from aerosolized engine oil being recirculated back into the intake via the PCV hose – if anything, I would expect WD40 would cause more buildup on the throttle body. Throttle body cleaner is made of volatile solvents, so it'll evaporate very quickly and won't leave a residue – it's job is solely to dissolve the deposits on the throttle body and plate, making them easier to wipe off, not to lubricate any parts. CRC also makes a TB cleaner, which is the one I use.

speedkar9

Check the engine and transmission mounts.

rumcajs997

Thanks guys for all those answers, I will be checking all informations step by step.

1) Since I just got the cable, I firstly checked the computer today. It doesn`t seem to show any errors or strange informations and readings seem to be within tolerance, but in Engine section I have got some info DTS Monitoring - Incomplete (or something like that) so I am not sure if it shows any info there due to this "Incompete" section. But I checked Misfire manually in this section and here is the info I have got:

Cold engine after night, after around 10 minutes Idle I got such result:

Cylinder 1 - 1 Misfire
Cylinder 2 - 1 Misfire
Cylinder 3 - 1 Misfire
Cylinder 4 - 0 Misfire
Cylinder 5 - 40 Misfire
Cylinder 6 - 0 Misfire

After that, when the engine got warmed up I reset this reading and took the car for a ride, after around 15min crousing around I have got:

Cylinder 1 - 0 Misfire
Cylinder 2 - 0 Misfire
Cylinder 3 - 0 Misfire
Cylinder 4 - 0 Misfire
Cylinder 5 - 5 Misfire
Cylinder 6 - 0 Misfire

The question is how serious is this reading ? I can feel some small vibration on the car while the engine is cold and running Idle, so it is probably due to this cylinder 5.

2) On top of that I took a screenshot of Engine section, I was wondering about the Throttle result, as it seems to be OK (0.8 for 0.8 required). I will check the throttle physically anyway, but it would be great if you could have a look at this reading.



3) I checked the battery charging voltage by multimeter and it shows 13.9V while the engine is running idle, so a bit low I would say, but rather nothing to worry about.

pbxcomm

I would change all plugs.. Be certain the new plugs are gapped correctly. When you remove the plugs note the condition of cylinder #5 plug. If this does not clear the issue, swap coils with #5 and a good known coil from either 1, 2, 3, 4 or 6 (closest to #5) then check for misfires once again. If the misfire follows the coil, then its a coil, if not, there could be a more serious issue as in compression.