GS - 3rd Gen (2006-2011) Discussion about the 2006+ model GS300, GS350, GS430, GS450H and GS460

More Repairs on GS350

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Old 12-02-15, 07:02 PM
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SK430
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Default More Repairs on GS350

LONG POST WARNING.

About a few weeks ago I had posted about buying my used gs350 and discovering some big repairs after the fact from my mechanic. For anyone that missed the post, basically I bought a 07 GS, with 99K miles on it from a Toyota dealership. I go home, and a week or so later get it checked, all of a sudden I find all 4 rotors are shot, the rear struts/shocks are leaking, and after 4 weeks of driving the CEL is on and off. SO of course I called the dealer the instance I found the issue and they told me bring it in.

Once I got it examined at dealer, they found that there is a big problem with exhaust, which is causing the CEL. Apparently the "Y Pipe" has 3 holes in it that are growing, and the pipe that connects before that is leaking. They quoted me over $5K for the repair, and I almost went flipped. I nicely then spoke a manager who said... "when we take the car in we repair anything we find, then it sits in the lot and things can happen to it during that time, like rust forming, which can cause rotors to decay and holes to form in metal, etc"... Not sure how true that is but at the end of it all they are going to do the following:

- Resurface all rotors in an attempt to extend their life, and cut pads (?)

- Replace both rear struts/shocks

- Clean the pipe before the Y pipe

- Replace Y pipe. Here's the kicker, they said they will split the cost of the Y pipe with me - the part costs $1400, so $700 for me plus labor.

Now I am really really upset, that this car I just bought a month ago already needs so many repairs. I feel like I got scammed. If you drive the car, it runs like its perfect I would've never known anything was wrong if my mechanic didn't tip me off.

I want to get CL's opinion and advice on what I should do here... do I cough up another loss, get the car fixed, and just move forward, which doesn't even guarantee it will fix the CEL (?)... or is there something else I can do to get my money back or have them fix it all at no cost to me. I really thought I could've drove the car for at least 6 months before putting more money into it, I expected things to go bad just not so quickly. I plan to have this car for only 2.5 years max or until I'm no longer upside down on the car loan, which also was a big loss due to me not knowing what to do
Old 12-02-15, 08:43 PM
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YxUxMADDDD
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I hope they offered you a 30 no hassle return policy like most dealerships do and say eff it and return the car if they refused to fix it. They last had the car. They should fixed it up to par prior to selling it. When I brought my GS350, I made sure they fix EVERYTHING wrong with it prior to me leaving the lot. Scratches, rattles, chip on windshield, brake pads, and etc... If it's not fixed after I brought it, I would return the car. Of course, any issues I can return it back for fixing. Also got 2 years of free oil change. Stiffen up that lip and march in there with confidence!
Old 12-02-15, 08:47 PM
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SK430
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Well here's the thing. I definitely argued with them about this as much as I could - I did say that this stuff should've been fixed before you sold the car, but the car was sold as a used, "as is" vehicle which is their defense. I couldn't think of what to respond to that other than the fact that they weren't doing good business. After spending 2 hours there debating, they decided to cover all those issues above but I had to pay for that one part.

It still unfair, I did report the issue within 30 days of buying the car but they did nothing about it and took two weeks to even respond to me. That is why I want to know if there is anything I can legally do to get them to either fix the car or take it back.
Old 12-02-15, 09:16 PM
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If it was sold as-is, it's all on you for not doing your homework and getting it checked out before buying it. Sorry, that's the truth. Seems like they're being nicer to you than they have to be already.

If I was you I would tell them to do all the stuff they said they'd do for free and then just take the car to a muffler specialist shop and they will just cut and weld new parts of the exhaust in stainless steel back from where your problems are for a lot less money. The exhaust on these cars rust out from the rear cats back because of the heat shields, I had both sides of mine replaced with stainless steel at a reputable exhaust shop with stainless steel for around $600 Canada bucks a couple of years ago parts and labor. They didn't put the heat shields back on, haven't had any problems due to that.
Old 12-02-15, 10:34 PM
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Sorry to hear about your problems buddy.... I tried to give as much info as I could about my problems with my GS350. I would say follow what the other guys are saying in this thread, if they dont fix it for free I guess take your money back and buy another car. I'm basically driving a family car and notice all these problems as I drive it. A lot of learning experience to be honest, since I know most japanese cars are known to have little bit of problems compared to the UDM or EDM cars. The check engine light could be checked by OBD port and get it scanned at the shop. Its funny because my mid pipe had a HUGE hole and I never got a check light
Old 12-02-15, 10:41 PM
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Any muffler shop can easily repair the pipe for you. Just have them remove the heat shields on both sides where the leaks are leaking from. Those heat shields allow rust to form under them. Many times its just a matter off grinding the rust pipe and welding the holes shut. Ive had mine leak on both sides and have repaired both sides this way and no issues.

The first leak repair cost me $30 bucks to fix at a muffler shop.
Old 12-02-15, 11:13 PM
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Binary Jay has some great advise, take the free repairs and then go to a muffler shop for the Y pipe
Old 12-03-15, 12:22 PM
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Default Please please please purchase extended warranty when thinking of a used car purchase.

When I purchased my car from a car Max I made sure to get the extended warranty.... please.....please.....please....people I cannot stress it enough if you purchase used car purchase the extended warranty I don't care what kinda car it is I don't care about anything purchase that extended warranty.... for me after year 2 of my 5 year extended warranty the transmission went out.... had I not purchase that extended warranty I would have had to cough up $6500.....the car ran fine then year 2 comes along and just like that.... check engine light comes on.... took it to Lexus.... they told me transmission is bad....and just like that I would have been screwed had I not purchase that dam warranty..... because I had the Max care extended warranty I was able to take the car in and drive around in a new 2015 gs 350 loaner for a two weeks only having to pay gas and my deductible for the Max care extended warranty claim....I rather pay the $100 deductible then pay $6500 ...so again this goes out to anybody who purchase a car....buy the extended warranty please......



Originally Posted by SK430
LONG POST WARNING.

About a few weeks ago I had posted about buying my used gs350 and discovering some big repairs after the fact from my mechanic. For anyone that missed the post, basically I bought a 07 GS, with 99K miles on it from a Toyota dealership. I go home, and a week or so later get it checked, all of a sudden I find all 4 rotors are shot, the rear struts/shocks are leaking, and after 4 weeks of driving the CEL is on and off. SO of course I called the dealer the instance I found the issue and they told me bring it in.

Once I got it examined at dealer, they found that there is a big problem with exhaust, which is causing the CEL. Apparently the "Y Pipe" has 3 holes in it that are growing, and the pipe that connects before that is leaking. They quoted me over $5K for the repair, and I almost went flipped. I nicely then spoke a manager who said... "when we take the car in we repair anything we find, then it sits in the lot and things can happen to it during that time, like rust forming, which can cause rotors to decay and holes to form in metal, etc"... Not sure how true that is but at the end of it all they are going to do the following:

- Resurface all rotors in an attempt to extend their life, and cut pads (?)

- Replace both rear struts/shocks

- Clean the pipe before the Y pipe

- Replace Y pipe. Here's the kicker, they said they will split the cost of the Y pipe with me - the part costs $1400, so $700 for me plus labor.

Now I am really really upset, that this car I just bought a month ago already needs so many repairs. I feel like I got scammed. If you drive the car, it runs like its perfect I would've never known anything was wrong if my mechanic didn't tip me off.

I want to get CL's opinion and advice on what I should do here... do I cough up another loss, get the car fixed, and just move forward, which doesn't even guarantee it will fix the CEL (?)... or is there something else I can do to get my money back or have them fix it all at no cost to me. I really thought I could've drove the car for at least 6 months before putting more money into it, I expected things to go bad just not so quickly. I plan to have this car for only 2.5 years max or until I'm no longer upside down on the car loan, which also was a big loss due to me not knowing what to do
Old 12-03-15, 01:56 PM
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tatumjonj
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Just out of curiosity, why would you buy a car and then get it checked out? I hope you learned something about purchasing an as is used car.
Old 12-03-15, 01:59 PM
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Oh, and I just purchased cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around from R1 Concepts for $300. Roughly $100 for Akebono pads from eBay. $20 for the front and rear brake hardware kits from eBay. About 3 hours of my time and I have brand new brakes all the way around that I don't have to worry about for a long time. Don't turn the rotors on a performance car. If it needs a brake job, it needs a brake job. Do the job right, do the job once.
Old 12-03-15, 02:06 PM
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And as to your original question, it varies from state to state but I believe in NY you might have had some recourse. Here's the relevant laws for your state:

http://www.ag.ny.gov/consumer-frauds/used-car-lemon-law

3.
  1. If your used car has more than 18,000 miles and up to and including 36,000 miles, a warranty must be provided for at least 90 days or 4,000 miles, whichever comes first.
  2. If your used car has more than 36,000 miles but less than 80,000 miles, a warranty must be provided for at least 60 days or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
  3. If your used car has 80,000 miles or more but no more than 100,000 miles, a warranty must be provided for at least 30 days or 1,000 miles, whichever comes first. Cars with over 100,000 miles are not covered.
4. If your engine, transmission, drive axle, brakes, radiator, steering, alternator, generator, starter, or ignition system (excluding the battery) are defective, the dealer or his agent must repair or, if he so chooses, reimburse you for the reasonable cost of repair.
In any case, it appears the brake issues should have been covered, but probably not the suspension items or the exhaust. I honestly don't know if the "engine" covers a check engine light related to the exhaust. My initial instinct is no, but who knows?

Now, the issue is did you actually contact them within 30 days. That sounds like it might be the sticking point. Whether you were remiss in contacting them, contacted them and didn't follow up or they purposely slow played you until the 30 days was up. I don't know. Might be time to present the information above that shows you know the law and then small claims court might be in order if you really feel you have a case and they won't help you.
Old 12-03-15, 07:09 PM
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SK430
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This is why I love CL. So many helpful people. Here are some answers to your questions:
BinaryJay, tatumjonj, YxUxMADDDD- I already know this is a lesson learned. I got my first car on craigslist, and it had issues. So I thought going to a dealer, they would not sell me a car with issues. Lesson learned is "as-is" means "as-is". I just thought they would've at least repaired the things they were aware of before they sell a used car. I was so wrong. I still don't think its possible all of this damage forms just sitting there.
fgreen23 - Def purchased the Allstate extended warranty for an extra fee and of course it does not cover: brakes pads or rotors, shocks, and exhaust. I attached the list of things it covers, I'm not even sure what the Y-Pipe is called but dealer said it was def not covered.
Even according to NY law, it doesn't cover the exhaust system damages. Next time I guess I either buy again from craigslist and go through that. I mean I had their service shop check the car and they provided a report of everything that was fixed, nowhere did it mention rotors, shocks, struts or pads. Next time I know that I can ask for things to be checked again or repaired. They really banked on my lack of knowledge, big time.

At this point I just want to get this car to 100% working condition. While they did a ****ty job in sales, they are trying with the service. They aren't replacing pads and rotors - just resurfacing and cutting which I don't even know will last me as I'm inexperienced here. They will swap both rear struts that are leaking, and the front ones will be left alone they are not leaking just fluid sweat.

With the Y-Pipe, and the part that comes before it. They are cleaning that part, and asking for $700 + labor for new Y-Pipe.... If BinaryJay is right and I can just remove these "heat plates" and weld the holes up - should I just ask them to do that? It did cost BinaryJay $600+ labor to fix his one, and they are saying I can replace mine for around the same. Will this last me at least 2 more years or will it go bad again if I do it their way? And also... how does cleaning a part fix it? Not judging them since I'm no mechanic.

Help me get this car to a condition I can enjoy it for 2.5 more years lol right before the warranty runs up (which again doesn't cover **** that I need). And I'd like to sell it in working, good condition to as to not have bad karma like these douches will. Sometimes I regret buying a Lexus as my first car, because I don't know if these cars are really as reliable as people say they are but I can't seem to stay away.
Old 12-03-15, 07:12 PM
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SK430
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My first email to them about it was two weeks in, 500 miles in. Either way it seems like the "as-is" agreement is how they get away with this, some people.

Originally Posted by tatumjonj
And as to your original question, it varies from state to state but I believe in NY you might have had some recourse. Here's the relevant laws for your state:

http://www.ag.ny.gov/consumer-frauds/used-car-lemon-law



In any case, it appears the brake issues should have been covered, but probably not the suspension items or the exhaust. I honestly don't know if the "engine" covers a check engine light related to the exhaust. My initial instinct is no, but who knows?

Now, the issue is did you actually contact them within 30 days. That sounds like it might be the sticking point. Whether you were remiss in contacting them, contacted them and didn't follow up or they purposely slow played you until the 30 days was up. I don't know. Might be time to present the information above that shows you know the law and then small claims court might be in order if you really feel you have a case and they won't help you.
Old 12-03-15, 08:10 PM
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No, none of that damage is from sitting on the lot unless it was sitting on the lot unused for ten years. And the lot was underwater.

You might regret buying the Lexus, but the problems you're having are of your own doing and could have been avoided. Or you could simply look at them as necessary maintenance issues that need to be addressed. It's pretty naive to assume you're going to buy a 9 year old vehicle and just drive it without any maintenance like it was a brand new car.

The fact is, it's a 100k mile vehicle that is 9 years old. It's going to need some maintenance. Some things are going to be less than perfect. I just purchased a flawless 06 GS300 with 130k miles on it. I mean flawless. But I changed the oil, the air filter, the cabin air filter (because those are things you do when you buy a used vehicle, you don't take some guys word on when the oil was changed to save $40), the rotors (slight vibration during extreme braking), the pads (near the wear indicators on the rear), the struts to coilovers (front struts a little sloppy wanted to lower it anyway), the headlights (passenger side headlight slightly intermittent), the parking lights (looked stupid amber), the fog lights (looked stupid amber) and I had the front bumper repainted because it had some rock chips in it. The car was flawless for a 130k mile car, but it wasn't up to my standards. My wife could have driven it as is for 5 years because she views a car as transportation.

I know I probably sound like your father, so sorry about that, but you really need to step up and get these issues taken care of and enjoy your new to you ride. And as others have suggested, if you're not willing to do the work yourself, take it somewhere else. These guys have already ****ed you once, it's mind boggling to me that you're thinking about giving them even more money to **** you again.
Old 12-03-15, 09:06 PM
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Tatumjonj - actually I do appreciate the straight advice. It was dumb of me to think that just because it's a dealership, they wouldn't sell me a car with no damage. I just assumed that a dealer that sold new toyotas would not sell crap used vehicles. Just dumb. I mean the first two weeks I got the car, I got an oil change, swapped all the filters and old bulbs, and did any other type of maintenance I know how to. Most of the things you mentioned you did to your car, I expected to do even right after buying.

I'm definitely going to have them fix the rotors/pads and the struts/shocks for free as they offered. Trust me, I already feel like a fool for being in a situation to give them more money. But right now if I take the shortcut and just go to a muffler shop as suggested, the problem could come back. And having to face this and pay full price at another place later also will hurt. Would love your take on how you'd proceed on this problem.

Attaching the warranty doc.
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