Water on the floor in the rear seat carpet
#17
Driver School Candidate
Very slight air pressure might work, be careful don't want to blow the hose off the nipple up in the corner. I have also use some small semi flexible wire, gradually work it down through the drain tube moving it back and forth until you have reached down through the windshield post plus a little. You can get a small hose with a funnel or plastic syringe and test it to make sure you got it clearout. To much air pressure or to much pressure poking with the wire could cause damage to the tube that runs through the post.
#18
#19
Driver School Candidate
I have also seen these drain tubes get blocked at the bottom end, under the inner fender liner. Damage to the liner or poor fit/alignment allow dirt and mud get behind it and pack up against bottom of tube. This wasn't on a Lexus though, but might be worth considering. OP'r did mention leafs on the cowl under hood, possible some worked its way in behind fender in hood hinge area. Point being blockage could be at the bottom end and not caused from something up top.
#20
Very slight air pressure might work, be careful don't want to blow the hose off the nipple up in the corner. I have also use some small semi flexible wire, gradually work it down through the drain tube moving it back and forth until you have reached down through the windshield post plus a little. You can get a small hose with a funnel or plastic syringe and test it to make sure you got it clearout. To much air pressure or to much pressure poking with the wire could cause damage to the tube that runs through the post.
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thanks for the tip! I drove it again tonight and found out the water was leaking from the driver side handle bar.... hopefully the tubing isn't already broken. About the tubing, its in the wheel well fender behind the caliper right? I've seen this tubing but have never knew what is was for. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and try to clear it carefully!
#22
Eh, with mine (GS350) the water comes out at the back of the front wheel well. I didn't need to take anything off the end of the drain. I can take a picture if you want or can't find one online.
Last edited by Broncosi; 12-08-15 at 04:37 AM.
#23
I found the top hole... so should i squirt some water in there with a syringe? could a turkey baster work? I think i know where the bottom end of the drain tube is... Its like a hanging black tube right?
#24
Driver School Candidate
This hose behind the passenger side wheel is most likely the evaporator core drain for the a/c. This picture loaded counter clockwise 90 degrees.
I just tested the drains on my GS 350 this is the puddle from the driver side, you see it came from the bottom rear corner of the fender opening. Three syringes of water from a turkey injector.
This is from the passenger side, again from the lower rear corner of wheel opening. This did not drain through the tube in first picture. This was one syringe of water. Both sides flowed free and drained through the plastic liner under car. The bottom end of the tube wasn't visible.
Last edited by z2g2gs; 12-03-15 at 05:18 PM.
#26
Thanks for all the effort! I dont think i have a syringe... I could probably get one for free at the pharmacy.... what kind of wire should i run through the hole so I dont rip through it?
#27
Driver School Candidate
I would recommend using the wire ONLY as a LAST resort. First test the drain. You should then be able to tell if the restriction is up top or the bottom. Even though it will take a little effort loosen the inner fender plastic and access the bottom of the tube. If you have determined the blockage is up toward the top you can put a little air through from the bottom and most likely clear it, don't forget protect the interior. Blowing from the top or even using wire from the top if a blockage is in that half most likely make it worst. If you find debris at the bottom end clear it and retest with the water that may take care of it, if it doesn't and the block age as in the bottom half try a light shot of air from the top . If you do have to end up using wire, it needs to be small, and flexible. But the tricky part is if its to flexible you won't be able to feed it through the tube. Try to find some small soft solid wire that bends easily. The smallest you find and can still work with the better. Your local hardware store or lumber yard would be where I would look. It also may be easier after it is accessed to go from the bottom, it may be straighter from there, seems to be a bend right at the very top which will make it more difficult. Be sure, if you end up using wire, to go slow working it back and forth not forcing it. Keep track of how far you have inserted it. Sounds like a lot of trouble I know but most likely easier than replacing the tube. I guess it's possible that the fitting up top pushes in with the tube attached then just feeds down the post, I don't know, maybe someone out there is familiar with it and will chime in. Good luck.
#28
I would recommend using the wire ONLY as a LAST resort. First test the drain. You should then be able to tell if the restriction is up top or the bottom. Even though it will take a little effort loosen the inner fender plastic and access the bottom of the tube. If you have determined the blockage is up toward the top you can put a little air through from the bottom and most likely clear it, don't forget protect the interior. Blowing from the top or even using wire from the top if a blockage is in that half most likely make it worst. If you find debris at the bottom end clear it and retest with the water that may take care of it, if it doesn't and the block age as in the bottom half try a light shot of air from the top . If you do have to end up using wire, it needs to be small, and flexible. But the tricky part is if its to flexible you won't be able to feed it through the tube. Try to find some small soft solid wire that bends easily. The smallest you find and can still work with the better. Your local hardware store or lumber yard would be where I would look. It also may be easier after it is accessed to go from the bottom, it may be straighter from there, seems to be a bend right at the very top which will make it more difficult. Be sure, if you end up using wire, to go slow working it back and forth not forcing it. Keep track of how far you have inserted it. Sounds like a lot of trouble I know but most likely easier than replacing the tube. I guess it's possible that the fitting up top pushes in with the tube attached then just feeds down the post, I don't know, maybe someone out there is familiar with it and will chime in. Good luck.
Since the leaking came from the handle bar and it was only very little bit of water that dripped on my head, I feel like it could be the section between the roof and side roof... maybe a seal could be broken there.
#29
Racer
Using a wire to clear the drains is ok of if you use some electrical wire with plastic coating around it. Just carefully insert and spin at the same time when you reach the blockage. Spay in some silicone inside the tube to keep it from drying out and prevent future blockage from sticking.
#30
Also about the turkey baster, I literally just poured a cup of water on the outside rim of my sunroof and it ran to the drains as it should. But the baster works as well.
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