tunedis95

I would really consider doing this Engine Tranny swap, as I've had my '06 GS430 almost 8 years and still love. Its a classic modern design, 4 doors, and comfortable to be in. If i was to get a new vehicle in the near future, this car will definitely get a swap. As long as the wiring harness can be done by competent vendor without taking a year to get back.

What its be super hard in integrate with this swap, realistically. How would the brake system, steering system be effected? Would adapters have to be made to use original GS power steering pump, or AC? Or these could be something where hoses would have to be made only? Gauges, I would look into completely changing out the gauge cluster, as i'm sure that's easier than trying to use stock.

Not trying to get bashed, but we should brain storm. I would be super stoked to get +-450 hp from a swap. I think getting more would lead to all kinds of drivetrain

Found some stuff for the Lexus IS. I'm sure there is tone of info out there. Its just breaking it down as to what is truly needed. Got some of be big points i found through the Lexus IS forum, I know all this may not pertain to us, but its just to look at and raise an eye brow. Not in any particular order.

Engine - $2100 JDM Aristo VVTi
New parts (insurance for your motor)- front/rear main seals/ upper radiator hose/supra throttle cable/timingbelt/serp.belt/tensioner/idlerpulley - $225
w58 Transmission (for middle section only) - $300
Odyssey Battery - $175
Greddy Emanage Ult - $525
Boomslang PnP harness - $325
MkIII downpipe (modded of course to fit jdm twins) - $100
Intercooler + piping - $300
RPS MAX BLUE pressure plate with stock disc aprx. $500
DONT FORGET COST OF FLUIDS - PS, Oil, Brake, Coolant, Clutch.

Some Trickets i picket up from other forums
-As for PS, yeah you should be using the IS pump. It has an electrical connection near the main line. You'll see it. The ECU uses that to control it. THe GTE style has the VSV bull***** that won't be used anyway.
-USDM coilpacks - Wiring the coilpacks....Wasted spark, obviously one IGN channel will be powering up two coil packs. You just tap and extend a new harness from your stock one for both coil + and coil - wires on the new coilpack. Cylinders are paired #1-6, # 5-2, and #3-4 like all inline6's. Plugs .44gap.
-Also...for anyone doing this swap, please look into "restrictor rings" before you grenade your motor due overboost
-there is one wastegate that controls both turbos. The rear actuator is not a wastegate but a prespool controller
-Can use the stock IS auto tranny with Toyomoto VB Upgrade
1. The tranny (or bellhousing rather) WILL bolt up to the stock block.
2. The tranny is actually LONGER than the stock tranny so your drive shaft is PWNED!
3. The flange on the end of the tranny is COMPLETELY different than the stock auto so your PWNED there too.
4. The Aristo tranny is 4sp and stock is 5sp (please don't PWN yourself on that one )
5. IS ECU don't know JACK about the Aristo auto PWNED Yet again.
Keep the stock auto and build it or at least VB uprade.
-convert to a top feed rail and have access to cheaper top feed injectors. - The Aristo already is setup to use a return system
-Run a supra NA flywheel for the weight savings without going a super lightweight AL one
-Use Aristo (GTE) Oil pump
-Use the usdm GTE water pump
-swap out the water temp sensor from the IS that is on the exhaust side and replace the sensor the GTE engine on the intake side.
-only valve i left in place is the one underneath the first turbo. the other three i either removed or wired open. If you remove the clamp on the rod the valve is extremely easy to wire open. practically swings open and close with 1 finger.
the bigger valve of the three (the one on the very bottom ) or the one thats on the closest turbo to the cam gears. - the one closest to the cam gears was left alone and it should be shut. all the other gates were wired open and the actuators were removed.
- IS ECU - Aristo ECU is doable if you have all the orig sensors, and an ECU that doesn't have immobilizer - If you run the ARISTO ecu you can take the boost upto 14psi and the car will compensate for it.
- used boomslag pnp harness...works like a champ
-Power Steering - use the 3/4" fitting from the Aristo PS pump..unbolt and bolt to your GE. Tap the GE PS res. w/ a 1/4" npt and buy your extension fitting and an adaptor to mate to the 3/4" barb. Done
-If I go emu, I have a place that deals directly with Trust/Greddy and they are authorized dealer and tuner of greddy products. I got the best of both worlds for tuning AEM and EMU. Now its just a matter of price.
-As for the water temp sensor, just swap the GE one, YOU KNOW that will work with the harness and the ECU for sure. I don't think there are any differences in how it detects but it MAY communicate differently with the ECU itself -Logically the main reason you should be swapping all the GE stuff over to the GTE motor is because you are using the IS ECU and to eliminate any gremlins, use sensors that are designed to work with this ECU. Your piggy back should take care of the differences and will be "assisting" the ECU with performance
-3/8 is for the line from the fuel rail to the pump and 5/16 is the line that is from the fitting to the jet valve in side the tank.
- AimR154 tranny..(look into Trans - swap a v160..).also I would recommend the JDM bottom end with VVTi or non head...but get the USDM turbos, they are better. Also the USDM head will have larger injectors so you can reach 500whp easier and more effectively. But the JDM block is what you want for a easier drop
-turbo's on the 98+ vvti engines (aristo or Supra) are as good as the usdm 93-98 gte's. the turbos on the 97 and older (jdm) gte's are the ceramic. The newer (vvti 98+ turbos are just as good as the usdms)
-And as far as R154's go, you want one from a soarer. They have the extra length we need in the linkage. If you get a usdm r154, you will have to mod the shifter length and the shifter mount base. You will have to extend it back a few inches (i think, search SF to check on this)
-VVTi block utilizes the same mount configuration as the stock GE block does. That's why its an easier drop. The non VVTi block has the mounts in a different location, therefore making it more difficult a drop. But basically the internals are the same. Forged with oil squirter's.
-Order Wire harness from http://www.boomslang.us/ultimate.htm
-pre 98 jdm gte twins (ct20) were ceramic, the post 98+ (aristo) jdm twins (ct20A) are steel. In fact the turbine shafts found on the aristo are slightly larger than the pre 98 usdm supra twins (ct12b). I think people assume that every JDM 2JZGTE has ceramic turbines, which isn't true
-Harmonic dampener - gte one because , well , its what came with the gte. IDK, I will be using the gte one. Looks fine. I am sure that paul and gillbert will tell you the same.
-if i can buy a aristo swap, run the IS300 auto tranny & harness and pass the plug in emissions test with an EMU id be golden......
-"dr. tweak" of Phoenix Tuning Home: We specialize in Toyota Engine Swaps & Wiring Harness Conversions if so, he is actually out of savannah, ga. - plug and play harness for the is300/ aristo swap. he said he could do it no problem. he said he would need the is300 and aristo harness and he would then merge them creating a plug and play with the aristo ecu. with mine being a 5 speed, he said he would also need to build an automatic transmission simulator box to keep the auto aristo ecu happy.
- if your going to use the Aristo ECU, i guess you have to use that tranny since the ECU don't know what to do with the IS tranny.
-I decided to run the IS300's oil filter setup, run oil lines to a cooler and relocate the filter. It's a pain to change the filter underneath the intake like that! In doing so you have to redirect or plug the coolant lines to the aristo filter setup.
-luv2drift from MY.IS/Forum stated - done dropping my motor in the car and I'm using my stock ecu and harness to my surprise the car starts up took a few try but now it starts with only one kick and its running great.
- pipes sticking out of the firewall should be trimmed down to about 1 inch. The upper hose can be reused off the old engine, however, the lower hose....yeah ummm that is COMPLETELY custom.
- move the maf over next to the TB and put the BOV before the IC. I think this is the root of all my minor issues. Yes I am on stock twin setup and loving it.
-In regards to that lower heater core hose, I will say this. I had to drop and pull the engine about 6 times before we got the hose just right so it wouldn't have any kinks in it. It is definitely a PITA.
-Get the Aristo 2jz-gte vvt-i motor, don't even mess around with any others, as they will be nothing but problems for you.
-If you use the motor you have:
you will most likely need a front sump, if its not already
you will need to make sure you have new motor mounts (most likely custom)
vvti versions (98 +), and I am using this word loosly , will "drop" in, whereas you will need to modify the two points above.
COnsidering you fix those points
You can however, use the non vvti obd1 motor with a usdm harness and a usdm ecu, which makes tuning a bit easier.
-Also, that oil fitler relocation kit is made by TransDapt and sold at Summit for $50 (TRD-1113).
-Down pipe - The mkiii bolts up, but just needs to be turned 180 degrees.
- run the harness beneath the intake runners - ample room, lower temperatures and it looks much cleaner. As the swap vets said - just start at the injectors and work from there
-BIG NOTE - 85-92 w58's do NOT mesh with the w55 like the sc300 ones. I found out that the hard way after spending hours trying to mesh the two. The only things that line up are the bellhousing and a few bolts here and there. The upper part of the w55 that extends the shifter does not line up at all and even using the w58 shift link it does not- use the w55 untill it ****s, then Ill try for a v160.
-cut my heater core pipes that come from the firewall.
-Please save yourself future problems and run the car with one primary o2 sensor. B1S1 OR (not and) B2S1, unplug the remaining and do not keep them on the car. No need whatsoever for any thing more.
Both primary sensor readings are spliced to read from whichever primary o2 you choose to use. Both rear o2 sensor readings are tied into a simulator. All four heater signals are spliced into the single primary o2 heater sig
-advised to tilt the front of the car up when filling up with coolant, in order to allow all the coolant reach every gallery-

And a note for dropping in the motor
1. Make sure transmission is attached and all mounts (including tranny are bolted up and ready to go.
2. Mods to ABS box, heater core pipes, and #2 Turbo housing should be done BEFORE this is attempted.
3. The wiring harness that runs along the firewall above the transmission tunnel should be un-buckled and slotted between the 2 heater core pipes. (Unless you rerouted the whole thing.
4. Car should be on jack stands. (I did it with just the front raised)
5. Roll the engine/tranny in and push back as far as you can.
6. Slowly lower the engine. (You will need to use a small jack to keep the transmission where it should be and at the right angle.
7. As the engine lowers, keep pushing back.
8. The point where you stop lowering is where the bolts for the engine mounts are touching but not jaming the crossmember. They should be about 1in or so away from the holes.
9. At this point get a broom or something to flex the mounts a bit, so you can push the bolts in the holes. You may hear a pop, that's okay, that 's the bolts poping into place (Don't push TOO hard or you may OWN your mounts, but you will have to use some muscle)
10. Once you have all 4 bolts slightly in the holes, SLOWLY lower the engine. It should level out and fall right into place.

Well there goes 3 hrs of my day

uberEJ

iTrader: (2)

Original power steering pump??? we have electronic power steering lol. as for the brake booster you just need to connect it to a vacuum port on the manifold.

ive done numerous different swaps on different cars for example, 2jz in an ae86, 2jz in a 300zx, rb and sr's in a 240, and an LS in an s2k.

the easiest part is getting the motor mounted and converting to a manual. the hardest part... rather yet most time consuming part is making your own wiring harness and pinning everything out to match the old ecu (which will be removed), to the new ecu, to both engine and current electronics you will still maintain in the 3gs. only if you really dont want to wait a year for a company to do so lol

for wiring they have numerous amount of chips you can tap into to correct the speedometer.

for the AC you will just need to swap the hoses out from the 2jz ac compressor one that will match up to the 3gs lines/condensor/dryer/etc. i had my AC line tuck on a civic made by Patco. im sure they have an online site and distribute worldwide.

but other than that to make 450 plus i would consider keeping the v160 trans the supra comes with and go manual.

i will be doing this swap in the future as soon as i get my exterior where i want it.

oh and this is not to bash you btw lol. just thought id chime in since im going to do this swap

tunedis95

Yea, the stuff I posted if from the Lexus IS forum, and totally understand we'll have our own sets ofissues. I was merely copying and pasting useful tips, that maybe we could brainstorm together. All I ask, is that you share the wealth you learn during the install. It'll be awesome to follow a 2JZ +'06 build. Maybe lock the thread so only you can post so it doesn't end up being 60 pages of just questions during your build. I'm stoked!

uberEJ

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah i definitely will post it and im sure ill get questions when i do, but im going to build the motor to safely handle 6-700 hp first. then ill get another car to drive while its down.

for the most part, the dash will definitely be removed and i will try to retain all of my electronics. i want to keep it looking as much as a vip car as possible. my goal is a vip drift car . being that im AWD as well, i will need to find front hub assemblies and front shocks.

but with my work schedule its possible that i will only be able to work on it during the weekends. just to make note i wont be getting to this project till probably 2 years from now lol. no reason for me to swap motors when this one is fine... other than the damn direct injection ticking.

tunedis95

Well, I'll just plan on getting a complete motor/tranny set toward the beginning of next year. Start replacing seals and other aged components, piece together different performance components too. Maybe I can start looking into wiring harnesses for the time being, get that done by a professional, as I think that's the most difficult part of the whole swap.

I know this is probably over my head, but I know I can do this. I remember when I swapped out my old SOHC motor in my 240sx to a DOHC, first time swap, one day, no help, and had her up and running smooth. I know this swap is its own beast, but I have a little more money to help me complete something like this nowadays. lol

In regards to wiring, found this.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...made-easy.html

vipdjason

iTrader: (3)

beast mod... 2jz

uberEJ

iTrader: (2)

it would just be alot of precision work. i suggest you use the wiring that will come with your motor and tap it into the 3gs harness. that link is for an sc300 with a 2jz already so wiring is much more simplified.

get the motor in first, make sure you have the pinouts for both 3gs and 2jz/supra and connect wires you may need speedohealer to be spliced in to the speedometer for correction. the only thing that you will not keep (that is if your trying to retain all functions) is the ECT control switch. other than that i would start from there and try to get the motor running first and then wire in all the desired electronics.

oh i also forgot to mention our GS is a drive by wire system so you will need to convert the gas pedal too.

Skylar978

iTrader: (1)

I have been waiting for a "PLUG AND PLAY" 2jz swap for the longest now... We are getting closer and closer at this point..

I would fall in love with my 3gs all over again. Especially with a manual trans? EESH....

To think, i almost went in and put a deposit down on a GSF, but at that point it would not even make any sense any longer to "Upgrade" to a car that has barely any aftermarket parts available yet and most likely will not have a lot of ways to upgrade its performance either way which is obviously lacking compared to the european competitors.

One more year and a 2J swap is feasible? Im all in..

uberEJ

iTrader: (2)

IMO i like the 3gs more than the 4gs. who knows when theyll come out with a wiring harness for a 2j swap. lol the gs has been out since 06 and still havent seen one. when i do the swap, if no wiring harness is out ill probably start putting them into production. but like i said it will be awhile before i even think about starting the swap.

its only going to be feasible if you have upgraded some stuff on the 2j if not, youll probably be making the same amount of power. do it once, build the motor then throw it in. granted youll still have a manual 3gs with a stock 2j swap so either way anyone would be happy =)

C-SupraTT

But the 1GS and 2GS look so dated.

tunedis95

Agreed, and I also happen to have a paid off 2006 in my hands that I want to keep around for a while. Just want to give her a lil more UMPH.