ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Ya you should be fine with that pin just keep sanding it down until you make sure it floats freely.

I wish you would have told me you were doing this, because I have a technique to quickly remove the pins. Ive done 4-5 of these things. Takes me 5-10 min ea caliper

illini19

iTrader: (1)

Thanks buddy. Worked perfectly sanding it down. Got it where it spun great and moved freely. Greased it up and put the new bushings on and all complete. Took it out for a ride and is great.

I wish I knew you knew your technique before I was doing. You can still share it

Thanks again!

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

1: Take off the caliper and bracket off the car
2: With a torch preheat parts of the caliper, this is to bring up the heat and not stress crack the aluminum
3: Lay the torch on its side pointing at the end of the caliper side shaft and let it sit and heat the very end for 3-4 min. Youll notice the tip change a slight color
4: With a rag flip the caliper so that the tip you heated is on the ground, and hammer in the pin further into the shaft
5: Flip the caliper over again and now hammer out the bracket from the caliper

Pin pops right out, even with severly seized pins like in my old 06 IS250

illini19

iTrader: (1)

Basically did the same thing but didn't take the lines off. I thought I would give it a try while still attached since I had a buddy there to help and had the caliper propped up. Heated just as you said for about 3 minnutes on each side and hammered in a couple times then heated again and hammered the bracket out and once it moved it a bit, the pin came out pretty easy. Getting the pin unthreaded from the bracket was the part that grooved up the pin since I thought the new one would work and had channel locks on it getting it off.

But thankfully it all worked out in the end (thanks again!).

Glad I read all the posts with the many people having the issue since these calipers, especially the rears seize a lot. Helped a lot. In the end, it really is an easy job to do all the brakes even with the caliper. No BS, when I got my oil changed last month, Lexus quoted me $1600.00 to do all the brakes. I did it for around $105.00 total with the Akebono pads and shims, two new caliper slide bolts and two new bushings.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

The good thing about reusing the caliper is not only the money savings, is it is still oem caliper. When you buy new aftermarket you do not know what you are getting.

Yes taking the pin off is a pain, which is why I didnt buy any news ones I just steel wooled my olds

I think the caliper design is flawed, they could have atleast drilled and tapped a zerk fitting at the end of the shaft so we can use a grease gun.

illini19

iTrader: (1)

I agree buddy and thanks again for all the help. Everything is great.

I would still like to know where I can get that pin. It's still driving me crazy that no one sells it. I'm guessing even though I greased up my old pin that I grooved up pretty good, that caliper will eventually seize again so I'll be proactive.

That pins HAS to come from a car. No way they made it just for a recall on the brakes.

If anyone comes across or has any information on where I can buy, please let me know.

The pin on the right is the one that was on the brakes when I took it apart and currently on there. The one on the left is the one that comes from online and every auto parts store because that is the part number it calls for on our Lexus'

sq25394

I think this should be a sticky both illini19 and ibidu1 have probably solved between them one of the biggest problems with the dreaded sticking (mainly rear) sliding guide pin. Stacks of people have either gone to a mechanic and swapped out the caliper (non-oem) or hope they had warranty, recall, luck in Lexus helping them.

I had this problem over the weekend and with heat, bad language , force got the pin out, cleaned and it's up and running.

Needs to be a sticky!!

sq25394

I should point out that I can't get the rubber guide boot in the UK, so I had to hit McGuiver mode and use a small piece of bike inner tube and a couple of zip ties!!! Temp of course, but hey rubber is rubber it ain't special.

iLub3GS

I had that same issue.. they tried to sell a new caliber n rotor to me for 800+$ i just went to a local mechanic and he knocked the pin out and relubed it for 20$ works just fine now

See5

I have the same problem with my 07 IS350

Please tell me if you found one, or if any one of you guys know a scrap yard that sell it online.

I machined a new bolt for 24$ and I hear clunking noise whenever braking.


thanks,

burny

I had rear driver side actually seize and replaced with an A1Cardone off Rockauto. This was 3 years ago and it is fine. Took car in for recall on fuel pressure gasket last year and they called and said rear passenger was seized. I took the caliper off and got the pin out. Lubed it and put it back in and caliper works fine.

illini19

iTrader: (1)

Just an update as I still have my beautiful GS350AWD. Of course the rear calipers seized again after about a year or so. So I finally just broke down and got two new calipers from Rockauto and installed. Changed them out in May and both are working great. I did take apart again and unseized and sanded and greased the pin down but they siezed again so I had a credit with Rockauto so said why not. Not that big of a deal. Still love Lexus. So they are not perfect. Terrible design on those calipers. Still baffles me about the pin being changed, guessing in one of the early TSIB's that required them changing out the bad design and never updating the part number so you can buy the bracket and pin from the original to the new one.

See5

Thanks for the update.

I came across the following part numbers:

Carlson 14208
Raybestos H15255
Dorman HW14950

But I guess they are all smaller than the pin we are looking for. So my only option is to buy another caliper for one side :

ServerTech

Just buy a rebuilt exchange caliper from RockAuto, Then send the old one back for credit. Be sure to get one with the bracket. They are cheap!

..

pbxcomm

Yes,, sand and more sanding.. Be sure the area where the PIN slides is perfectly clean and be sure to use special grease/lube made for ceramic pads. Do not place any grease on the top of the PIN it may hydraulically lock and not slide in to the bottom.