GS300 AWD -Need Some Experienced Opinions On Coasting PLEASE
06-20-12, 06:19 PM
#1
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GS300 AWD -Need Some Experienced Opinions On Coasting
I've had my GS for 2 months and I love it, save for one thing (besides wishing it had Gen5)...
When I take my foot off the gas, the clutch packs wont disengage enough to let the car coast easily. It always feels like it's "engine braking".
If I toss her into neutral every time I take my foot off the gas, she rolls like she's on a cloud! PLUS I save 3+ MPG!!
Is this "problem" NORMAL? I sure hope not.
When I take my foot off the gas, the clutch packs wont disengage enough to let the car coast easily. It always feels like it's "engine braking".
If I toss her into neutral every time I take my foot off the gas, she rolls like she's on a cloud! PLUS I save 3+ MPG!!
Is this "problem" NORMAL? I sure hope not.
Last edited by RockinLex; 06-20-12 at 08:31 PM.
06-20-12, 10:36 PM
#2
Are you in sport mode? How fast are you going to feel something like this? Usually at around 85mph I can slightly feel it, basically anything 3 or more rpm you will feel it. Make sure your tranny is shifting to all gears. You might be stuck in pre last gear.
06-21-12, 05:00 AM
#3
Don't freewheel in neutral with this transmission. It's not designed to and your mpg savings will be shot to hell by your transmission service bill.
Drivetrain drag places a preload condition on the transmission at higher speeds because it has nowhere to up shift to. If there is associated noise/chatter take it in to get looked at. You may also want to get your alignment checked as toe in/out can also place drag on rolling resistance.
And of course, a tire pressure check is always a good idea.
Drivetrain drag places a preload condition on the transmission at higher speeds because it has nowhere to up shift to. If there is associated noise/chatter take it in to get looked at. You may also want to get your alignment checked as toe in/out can also place drag on rolling resistance.
And of course, a tire pressure check is always a good idea.
06-21-12, 09:52 AM
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Don't freewheel in neutral with this transmission. It's not designed to and your mpg savings will be shot to hell by your transmission service bill.
Drivetrain drag places a preload condition on the transmission at higher speeds because it has nowhere to up shift to. If there is associated noise/chatter take it in to get looked at. You may also want to get your alignment checked as toe in/out can also place drag on rolling resistance.
And of course, a tire pressure check is always a good idea.
Drivetrain drag places a preload condition on the transmission at higher speeds because it has nowhere to up shift to. If there is associated noise/chatter take it in to get looked at. You may also want to get your alignment checked as toe in/out can also place drag on rolling resistance.
And of course, a tire pressure check is always a good idea.
Can't be alignment drag because it glides like a hot-wheels car in neutral.
Feels like the clutch packs are just too damn tight, but Lexus says that can't be adjusted.
If this is indeed NOT a normal condition, I'm hopeful, but quite stumped. The only thing I can imagine is that it's staying in sport mode even when in D. However, sport SHIFTING works perfectly right. Goes down to 5 when pushed left.
Any help will be most appreciated.
06-21-12, 02:43 PM
#5
Mileage?
Assuming more than 40K miles, I'd be considering the transmission fluid and filter being changed, and the slippy diff's while you're at it.
While I'm still on the hunt for my GS, I chatted at length with a transmission specialist about auto boxes in general, as well as a 300 which can't select reverse!
During the conversation, in his 35 years of working on transmissions, he's seeing an average of 80-90K miles when things start showing up.
I was very surprised to hear him suggest changing every 40K, as that's manual territory, and goes against the grain of "sealed for life" that manufacturers trot out when the subject matter is broached.
With respect to the dealers' techs, who probably never get asked for their view/take on it — it's always the service manager/middle management who espouse the corporate line, I'd pay more attention to someone who sees trannys all day, every day, for 35 years.
The old adage of "prevention is better than the cure" is very apt, when the cure is the thick end of $3-4K with some assistance from Lexus, if you're lucky.
Of course, greater chance of help outside warranty if your service history is all Lexus/Toyota stamps, and not independents for the past couple of years.
But, don't assume it's just a fluid-based issue, it could be signs something isn't quite right mechanically, and it would take a tranny specialist to investigate.
That said, at least you guys have the luxury of rebuild kits officially available for not wallet-raping prices, especially when I looked the other day on ebay.
Here in the UK/EU, it's a new box - end of story - or one from a salvage yard, which given the numbers Lexus sold in across all models, makes finding one a lot more difficult than the ZF from a BMW, for example.
If you do go down the fluid route as a first step to resolving it, I'd suggest you have whomever does it, take a sample of the oil. I'd then look at sending it to an oil analysis lab, along with some of the new oil, and ask them for a comparison test report.
You'd see in one fell swoop, whether the oil had degraded or was still in spec, and what wear metals there were within it.
In the meantime, if the transmission is tickety boo with the new oil, then you'll already know it wasn't up to the task any more, but at least you'll have confirmation.
I know the odd time customers of BMW complain about the transmission, the dealer will reload the software for it, which in some cases, has fixed the issue - it might (emphasis on the word might) be worth seeing if Lexus has a similar set up.
If not, then consider the oil change to see if that sorts it out.
Just out of curiosity, has it always been like this since you bought it?
Private sale or retail?
If a Lexus dealer, ask if you can drive a 350 AWD they may have, to compare - just in case you never noticed it during your test drive before buying it, and it's partly to do with the 4-WD system, and not the gearbox itself.
Keep us informed as to your findings and resolution, if there is an actual fault there.
Assuming more than 40K miles, I'd be considering the transmission fluid and filter being changed, and the slippy diff's while you're at it.
While I'm still on the hunt for my GS, I chatted at length with a transmission specialist about auto boxes in general, as well as a 300 which can't select reverse!
During the conversation, in his 35 years of working on transmissions, he's seeing an average of 80-90K miles when things start showing up.
I was very surprised to hear him suggest changing every 40K, as that's manual territory, and goes against the grain of "sealed for life" that manufacturers trot out when the subject matter is broached.
With respect to the dealers' techs, who probably never get asked for their view/take on it — it's always the service manager/middle management who espouse the corporate line, I'd pay more attention to someone who sees trannys all day, every day, for 35 years.
The old adage of "prevention is better than the cure" is very apt, when the cure is the thick end of $3-4K with some assistance from Lexus, if you're lucky.
Of course, greater chance of help outside warranty if your service history is all Lexus/Toyota stamps, and not independents for the past couple of years.
But, don't assume it's just a fluid-based issue, it could be signs something isn't quite right mechanically, and it would take a tranny specialist to investigate.
That said, at least you guys have the luxury of rebuild kits officially available for not wallet-raping prices, especially when I looked the other day on ebay.
Here in the UK/EU, it's a new box - end of story - or one from a salvage yard, which given the numbers Lexus sold in across all models, makes finding one a lot more difficult than the ZF from a BMW, for example.
If you do go down the fluid route as a first step to resolving it, I'd suggest you have whomever does it, take a sample of the oil. I'd then look at sending it to an oil analysis lab, along with some of the new oil, and ask them for a comparison test report.
You'd see in one fell swoop, whether the oil had degraded or was still in spec, and what wear metals there were within it.
In the meantime, if the transmission is tickety boo with the new oil, then you'll already know it wasn't up to the task any more, but at least you'll have confirmation.
I know the odd time customers of BMW complain about the transmission, the dealer will reload the software for it, which in some cases, has fixed the issue - it might (emphasis on the word might) be worth seeing if Lexus has a similar set up.
If not, then consider the oil change to see if that sorts it out.
Just out of curiosity, has it always been like this since you bought it?
Private sale or retail?
If a Lexus dealer, ask if you can drive a 350 AWD they may have, to compare - just in case you never noticed it during your test drive before buying it, and it's partly to do with the 4-WD system, and not the gearbox itself.
Keep us informed as to your findings and resolution, if there is an actual fault there.
Last edited by Boron; 07-02-12 at 03:24 AM.
07-01-12, 05:42 PM
#6
I have experience the same thing with both my G35's. It's just the engine slowing the car down. It's nothing unusual and there's nothing wrong with the vehicle. Coasting ability is better on some cars than others. Leave the car in drive and DO NOT shift into neutral because the car doesn't use any fuel when the car is coasting in gear. If you shift into neutral, fuel will be burned to keep the engine idling.
07-01-12, 10:15 PM
#7
Here's MY experience, I can't account for everyone else. But Lexus just recently did a 3-strut (for god knows why they didn't do my 4th one anyways) change, and they did an alignment on it. the alignment was within O.E. spec, but it had HORRIBLE MPG's, and horrible coasting abilities. Also it swerved back and forth every once in a while (very weird). I took it back very VERY very disgruntled, and the service guy goes, we'll make sure it doesn't happen again! Turns out they just adjusted the toe inwards a few degrees, and everything was working 100%! I was coasting soo far it felt like the car was in neutral tbh. 40mph at some points just stuck there (unless i'm going uphill of course) and now I can coast farther than usual OR brake a lot more than before. I absolutely love how it's setup now because i'm getting 24mpg's EASILY.... that's with stomping on the gas once in a while 
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