johnnunez2

i know its been covered i just cant find it. does anyone have a write up of how to install the line output converter? or can someone point me in the right direction,lol. like tell me exactly what i need................. i see many that say 50w and i see some that say 15w and some say 4- channel and some say 2-channel... im confused what do i need to install my amp???? and if i install my amp, do i have to disconnect stock amp from sub cables? help please.

blacksedan

iTrader: (4)

To hook up an aftermarket amp, you need to connect it to:
RCA: Line Output Converter (cut the wires directly from your factory sub and supply this to the LOC, which will now give you RCA outputs.)
Power: straight from positive terminal on battery
Ground: bare metal from anywhere in the trunk's chassis
Remote turn on: fuse box

Check out the DIY thread

johnnunez2

i did but i couldnt find that info. theres so many converters idk which one i need. do i need a 2-channel or a 4-channel? these are options im given online.thanks

IXI187IXI

iTrader: (3)

JL Cleansweep

blacksedan

iTrader: (4)

I think you need to do a bit more research about installing systems in general before trying to tackle the job. To answer your question, how many total speakers do you plan to amplify? If just your sub, a 2CH will suffice.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC-SNI-35.html

http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-Clean.../dp/B000OI7TTI

johnnunez2

thanks, i dont mean to be rude, but ive installed a little over a dozen systems before, even made custom boxes like the one im using now. my issue is this car (like my 240sx) has stock amps that make it 10X more complicated. i went ahead and used a soem model pac line output converter w/ remote. so no need to run remote to the fuse box. also removed factory sub. i did not connect loc to the sub cables, i cut those cable close to the stock amp and ran everything off that side,now every single thing is coming out of that side. looks great. now i need to go get a ground block and power block.and im done. i think it looks cleaner this way than going from up where the sub was. also by removing the stock sub im allowing more bass into the car. nonetheless thatnks blacksedan for your help. cleansweep sounds good but a bit pricey at the moment..

bklynjoker

Added 1 L7 12" with amp and I noticed the bass n highs are sick inside the car but when standing outside I'm not getting much sound.. Is it due to the sheet of metal behind rear seat blocking the sound? Didn't remove stock sub, I just open the ski hole and bass is hard... Any tricks?

Ap1_Alan

iTrader: (1)

Why are you worried about sound quality standing OUTSIDE of the car?

johnnunez2

you want your system to sound good in and out. mainly music people lol. like myself. bklynjoker remove the stock sub it will let more of the music in from the trunk. its just a bit of a pain in the ***. what loc did you use? or what did you use to convert wires to rca? and where did you get your ground. im actually having a problem with my amp over heating and going into protect mode. gotta check the ground even though it looks good and im getting a 13.3 on my voltmeter at the amp.

Lex Luga

iTrader: (11)

I gotta try opening that arm rest/ski hole. My 10in W7 sounds good already but mayb it will sound better

bklynjoker

Your amp maybe to small or set to high. Also depends on the ohms ur pushing That will cause protection mode. The Lower the ohm the more power amp needs.
REMOVING stock amp is thru the rear inside deck correct? Sounds like a pain in the ***... And I'm not worried about setting off car alarms, just wanna make the *****s booty shake alil. Uknow

johnnunez2

lol. i know what im doing. my amp is a 1000bd oldschool rockford and my sub is a 12" t2 rated 2000watts 1000 rms roughly. sub is wired parralel dvc 4 ohm to achieve a 2 ohm load.my amp is 2 ohm stable mono block BEAST! all i need is one... i have since figured out the problem. it was pretty simple but im still confused. it was the ground, i had it hooked up to a solid metal piece that was attached to the frame aswell,but apparently it was not good enough.had to self tap a big screw in and eat the paint off the axle.everything is fine now. about the stock amp, its in the right rear side panel.its pretty easy to get to. now im jamming.

Amalan

iTrader: (1)

step1: get a router with a circle jig and cut two 6in holes in your trunk lid

step2: purchase 2 aero ports and glue them into the holes you cut.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=268-354

done. simple 2 step process on getting more sound outside your car.

johnnunez2

what????? you mean in the car right? , lets not mutilate a lexus. just remove the stock sub. believe it or not it is either 8 or 10 inches and crappy s hell but that will allow more flow. i got my one sub and amp and i cant stand it sometimes, my rearview falls,headache,etc. the sub removal makes a world of a difference. p.s ive had two l7 in my old honda accord they are bad *** speaker but not the loudest things out there. i sold them to get my current setup X2 . but i sold an amp and sub cuz the box needed for these subs are hugeeee. and they are wayyyy to loud to add two of them. but i did like those l7's.

LexVoitek

I have a 2006 Lexus GS300 that I tend to do a lot of how-to video tutorials on. In my latest video, I help people with the same audio problem that I had; not enough bass in my GS300 non ML version audio system. I tapped into the fuse box for my remote wire to cut down on installation time.


I used a Rockford Fosgate Line Output Converter, a Soundstream Amp, and a Infinity Reference 10" in a ported enclosure. The sub hits nice and hard at 70% gain and this setting has descent symmetry with the rest of the audio system; meaning it sounds proper at all volume levels. If I turn the gain up, or turn on the bass boost, the car stereo sounds horrible at low volumes; all you hear is loud boomy bass and hardly any mids or highs. I built this system on a budget since my wife doesn't care for this type of stuff; I'm sure some of you know how that is.

Check out my video below. I also posted my system specs for those of you who want some descent bass without sacrificing too many Benjamin's.

I'm running the amp in bridged mode pushing 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms to a single voice coil sub.



Subwoofer: $90 retail -> I paid $46
Infinity Mobile 1060W SVC
Power Handling, RMS 275 Watts Power Handling, Peak 1100 Watts Sensitivity 91dB Frequency Response 25Hz - 400Hz Impedance 4 Ohms

Amplifier: $90 Retail -> I paid $75
Soundstream Picasso PX2.200
Picasso Series 2-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 70 watts x 2 chan., 2 ohms: 100 watts x 2 chan., Bridged, 4 ohms: 200 watts x 1 chan.

Subwoofer Enclosure: $40
10" Single Labyrinth Slot Vented Subwoofer Box 3/4" Obcon

Line Output Converter: Freebie you can get a 2 channel for $25 at BestBuy
Rockford Fosgate IEC AULOC
Adjustable Line Output Converter, 2-50 watts. Used for converting high-level speaker line outputs from a source unit into low-level RCA jacks.

8 Gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit: $20

The only thing I would have done differently is bought an amp with a remote gain controller