Sonartech

I just verified that the information I posted for multi-display connector K46 for the 2007 GS350 is also accurate for the 2006 GS300. However, the Nav ECU h1 connector IS different (if you care). VSS on the 2006 GS300 lives on Navigation ECU Connector h1, PIN 13, COLOR CODE P.

Please note that this mod won't do diddly-beans for RDS messaging and has nothing to do with RDS to the best of my knowledge (at least, not on my 2 Lexii). All this simple mod does is remove the lock-outs that the Multi-display imposes on certain buttons while the car's in motion.

...and YES, release the lock inside the connector that holds the pin in place (use your eyes and a bright light + patience!!), push the pin out from the front of the connector (that's the other reason you need a very small screwdriver - to push the pin from the front side out towards the back where the wire goes into the plastic housing), insulate the metal pin with a bit of heat shrink tubing (which you can cut easily off later if needed), then finally VERIFY THE SYSTEM DOES WHAT YOU EXPECT / NEED before re-assembling the console completely.

SonarTech

SilverSprt

stupid question from the non-electrician. Can electrical tape be used to cover the removed pins in place of heat strink tubing? It does the same duty, right? (not as pretty though)

thanks!

Technique

Electrical tape is TERRIBLE. Totally ghetto. It corrodes... Don't use it...

Balnk

Electrical tape does not "corrode"

I have been an automotive electrician for 15 years. If you use good
quality tape it will outlast your car. 3M Super 33+ is a tape that I have
seen years later and its still in perfect shape.

Balnk

Technique

Are you trying to tell me that electrical tape is superior to heat shrink? Crimp tubing? Soldering? Or any other accepted method?

It's one the WORST methods out there, aside from just twisting wires together and leaving them exposed...

My advice, use heat shrink, AVOID electrical tape... Electrical tape should be used for temporary purposes only...

Balnk

Technique...

Electrical tape, like anything, if applied correctly, will have the same
net effect as heat shrink. They will both out last the car and the
application. Lexus uses electrical tape on their harness', so why wouldn't
it be ok if someone else does?

Not saying one is better, or superior, then the other. Just that they will
have the same end purpose.

Balnk

Irishman06

I too, am skeptical about electrical tape, but its for the same reason I'm skeptical of heat shrink: vibration resistance. While NVH is not much of a problem by the time a car reaches the mass-production market, engine/suspension vibrations in prototype, small-volume and race cars can literally shake taped and soldered/heat shrink connections loose. I've seen it happen. At that point, there's nothing that beats a PROPERLY crimped wire and connector.

But in the passenger car world, I've seen electrical tape work fine and dandy for everything except critical connections, where more safety is better.

Sonartech

The only potential downside associated with using electrical tape over heat shrink tubing is that older electrical tape, especially after it gets hot & cold multiple times, can shed adhesive from the tape onto the wire and the pin. This would require cleanup prior to re-inserting the pin back into the connector, should that ever be necessary. Like all things, there are good products and crap products. If you use fresh, good quality electrical tape, it will insulate the pin just as well as heat shrink will.

As a rule, I prefer electrical tape only in cases where I can't cut a wire to slip a length of heat shrink tubing over the connection. The advantages of heat shrink tubing over electrical tape is that there's no adhesive involved (unless you actually purchased adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing) and the heat shrink conforms to fit around the pin keeping the heat shrink in place. It's easy to cut off and leaves no residue behind.

Regarding adhesive-lined Heat Shinrk Tubing: If you've never seen this before and you like using heat-shrink tubing, you're missing out. It's very thick tubing that has an incredible shrink ratio - about 5 times better than typical polyolefin tubing, and it has "hot glue" adhesive built-in as well. When you heat it, the tube shrinks and pushes the now melted hot glue into the connection sealing it. If done properly, the seal is completely waterproof because the hot glue bonds to the hot plastic insulation on the wire. Although it wouldn't be a good choice for this particular application, it is absolutely awesome for insulating permanents connections such as power cords and automotive wiring.

Cheers,

SonarTech

SilverSprt

Thanks for the information, team. Sounds like the electrical tape will work if I am meticulous about the application of it, although it may not be the most "optimal" solution. I only asked since I don't have one of those heating guns needed to apply the heat shrink tubing.

Technique

No hair dryer?

Technique

You know what, I will be honest and say that I have not used electrical tape in like almost 15 years, so, this new 3M 33+ and others might actually be good... But, I am just so used to using crimp tubing and other more "permanent" methods that I don't think I could ever use electrical tape... But hey, if technology has made it less of a sticky mess than it used to be, I won't bash it as much

2thfixr

Now, you need to kill VSS going to the multidisplay, but you still need VSS to the Nav system. Take the violet wire that used to go from the wiring harness into the K46 Pin 14 connector and put your switch on that wire. Terminate the remaining end. Then connect the other side of the switch to to the white/black (white/grey in my car) wire that goes IN to h1 Pin 16. Again, terminate the remaining end (the end going into the display connector). Sounds a little confusing but basically this step is jumpering the two wires coming from the car with a switch in the middle and terminating the two ends coming from the display. This will switch VSS on & off to the Nav system but will leave the Multi-Display without a SPD signal.

What I found is that if you cut or remove only the VSS wire from k46 and ground the PKB wire, you can watch DVDs while in motion and dial the phone but you lose turn by turn guidance, GPS accuracy and the nav screen will not scroll smoothly. With the h1 switch mod, it operates as described above AND you can enter nav destinations while in motion. However, when you flip the switch, you can no longer enter nav destinations BUT you you regain turn by turn guidance, GPS accuracy, and smooth scrolling. Yes, it sucks but it works.

Couldn't have done the mod without all of the help from Sonartech! He is the Lexus electrical guru!!!!! Remember kids, don't try this at home.

2thfixr

Sorry I don't have more pics guys, I took some initially but when I discovered that I lost all turn by turn directions and GPS accuracy, I had to go back and do things differently. I didn't take any pictures the 2nd time around.

Actually I do have one more pic that that is of the actual switch that I used. I looked all over for a suitable switch and ultimately ended up going with the one that someone had posted on this forum. I don't remember where I saw it so I can just say thanks whoever you are. The switch is just a tad small but it fits reasonably well and I slide the armrest over the controls anyways so I never see it.

jaxgs350

Much appreciated Robert.... this was very helpful.

SilverSprt

Thanks, Robert! This is fantastic.