Aristo Swap Does Not What To Run
03-20-17, 06:40 PM
#1
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Aristo Swap Does Not What To Run
Im having a problem with this I check everything from Fuel to Spark it has good fuel pressure for spark it seem to have barely any sparks I check my MAF sensor Crank sensor Cam sensor all good can anyone help me with my issue ..........Thanks
03-21-17, 09:16 PM
#5
That sure does act and sound just like it does with a blown AM2 fuse. Have you verified 100% that all fuses in the bay and both kick panels are good?
Do you have all the intercooler piping 100% connected? And I see you have the MAF pipe in the turbo and assume it is plugged in since you have the pipe there.
That engine is surely getting flooded out from all the cranking, and when you disconnect the fuel pump it may start for a few seconds once it pushes out some of that excess fuel. (by starting I mean acting like it's going to start and run finally.) The engine smells like fuel when you been cranking the heck out of it correct?
Those plugs are probably trashed from all the flooding, have you put new plugs in it since you've been troubleshooting, or at least pulled those and inspected them and torched them off to try again? You should be testing with some NGK BKR6ES-11 / 5553 coppers on that single setup. You can move to iridium's after you work out the bugs if you want.
You getting plenty of fuel and spark, it wouldn't run that long if it wasn't. When it starts in the disconnected video it burnt up the fuel that was in there. With a blown AM2 fuse or one of the other couple ignition related fuses it will do exactly as the video shows.. I think in another thread you had checked the AM2 but double check all the fuses in the car again. I've seen this happen and the motor sounded just like that.
What stops an Aristo GTE swap from running when you DO have fuel and spark??
-Disconnected intercooler piping
-Bad/Disconnected MAF
-Blown AM2, IGN, ECU or other fuses
-Bad ECU
-Bad/disconnected Crank Sensor/wire (the vvti motor will start and run with no Cam sensor connected at all, just wont advance timing)
-Bad/disconnected water temp sensor/wire
Do you have a 98-00 or 01-05? And you using the Aristo ECU current with no other piggyback or ecu tied in with it, correct?
Good luck, you've been at this point for a few weeks now I think???? Let's hope you get this thing driving!
Do you have all the intercooler piping 100% connected? And I see you have the MAF pipe in the turbo and assume it is plugged in since you have the pipe there.
That engine is surely getting flooded out from all the cranking, and when you disconnect the fuel pump it may start for a few seconds once it pushes out some of that excess fuel. (by starting I mean acting like it's going to start and run finally.) The engine smells like fuel when you been cranking the heck out of it correct?
Those plugs are probably trashed from all the flooding, have you put new plugs in it since you've been troubleshooting, or at least pulled those and inspected them and torched them off to try again? You should be testing with some NGK BKR6ES-11 / 5553 coppers on that single setup. You can move to iridium's after you work out the bugs if you want.
You getting plenty of fuel and spark, it wouldn't run that long if it wasn't. When it starts in the disconnected video it burnt up the fuel that was in there. With a blown AM2 fuse or one of the other couple ignition related fuses it will do exactly as the video shows.. I think in another thread you had checked the AM2 but double check all the fuses in the car again. I've seen this happen and the motor sounded just like that.
What stops an Aristo GTE swap from running when you DO have fuel and spark??
-Disconnected intercooler piping
-Bad/Disconnected MAF
-Blown AM2, IGN, ECU or other fuses
-Bad ECU
-Bad/disconnected Crank Sensor/wire (the vvti motor will start and run with no Cam sensor connected at all, just wont advance timing)
-Bad/disconnected water temp sensor/wire
Do you have a 98-00 or 01-05? And you using the Aristo ECU current with no other piggyback or ecu tied in with it, correct?
Good luck, you've been at this point for a few weeks now I think???? Let's hope you get this thing driving!
Last edited by 99 GS3; 03-21-17 at 09:31 PM.
03-22-17, 06:51 PM
#6
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I have Not check the fuses in the kick panels yet that will be next .
Yes all intercooler piping is connected and the MAF is connected also.
It has a slight smell of Fuel but not much.
I Pulled the spark plugs out and clean them it was wet from fuel and also was using Iridium Plug at the Moment.
The AM2 fuse under the hood was good.
ITS EITHER Bad:
ECU
Water Temp Sensor /Wire
Fuses
How do you Check the Water Temp sensor wire?
How do you check to see if your ECU IS BAD ?
I have a 98 using Aristo Stock ECU W/ no piggyback
Yes its been 3 weeks now to the point were Im about to give up on it.....
Thanks for your Help
I will get back to you with this
Yes all intercooler piping is connected and the MAF is connected also.
It has a slight smell of Fuel but not much.
I Pulled the spark plugs out and clean them it was wet from fuel and also was using Iridium Plug at the Moment.
The AM2 fuse under the hood was good.
ITS EITHER Bad:
ECU
Water Temp Sensor /Wire
Fuses
How do you Check the Water Temp sensor wire?
How do you check to see if your ECU IS BAD ?
I have a 98 using Aristo Stock ECU W/ no piggyback
Yes its been 3 weeks now to the point were Im about to give up on it.....
Thanks for your Help
I will get back to you with this
03-22-17, 08:44 PM
#7
I have Not check the fuses in the kick panels yet that will be next .
Yes all intercooler piping is connected and the MAF is connected also.
It has a slight smell of Fuel but not much.
I Pulled the spark plugs out and clean them it was wet from fuel and also was using Iridium Plug at the Moment.
The AM2 fuse under the hood was good.
ITS EITHER Bad:
ECU
Water Temp Sensor /Wire
Fuses
How do you Check the Water Temp sensor wire?
How do you check to see if your ECU IS BAD ?
I have a 98 using Aristo Stock ECU W/ no piggyback
Yes its been 3 weeks now to the point were Im about to give up on it.....
Thanks for your Help
I will get back to you with this
Yes all intercooler piping is connected and the MAF is connected also.
It has a slight smell of Fuel but not much.
I Pulled the spark plugs out and clean them it was wet from fuel and also was using Iridium Plug at the Moment.
The AM2 fuse under the hood was good.
ITS EITHER Bad:
ECU
Water Temp Sensor /Wire
Fuses
How do you Check the Water Temp sensor wire?
How do you check to see if your ECU IS BAD ?
I have a 98 using Aristo Stock ECU W/ no piggyback
Yes its been 3 weeks now to the point were Im about to give up on it.....
Thanks for your Help
I will get back to you with this
Pretty rare the ecu's go bad on the vvti's, but really the main way is to just try another.
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03-23-17, 06:54 PM
#9
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I've check all the Fuses on both side kick panels all good none burt .
The water temp sensor is good has power going through them coming out the ECU Side Plug on negative side and positive side......
I had used some New NGK BKR6ERX-11 spark plug today that I had sitting around . My First Key Turn too Start it Almost Wanted to Start but it gave up After that First Start..But I Notice that First Start it Wanted To Run but Than it Stop like it was losing Power for it to Run.
All it does after that first Crank is the Starter cranks it but Not fire Up to Start Up just like on the First Video I had.
Well I had did Change Some Connectors before I had put this Motor In maybe one of the wiring is put in the wrong order....
Can you tell me on Your Coil Pack Connector which Side is Negative and Positive of the Wire on your Connector?
Also Which Wire is Negative and Positive on your Water Temp Sensor Connector?
THANKS
The water temp sensor is good has power going through them coming out the ECU Side Plug on negative side and positive side......
I had used some New NGK BKR6ERX-11 spark plug today that I had sitting around . My First Key Turn too Start it Almost Wanted to Start but it gave up After that First Start..But I Notice that First Start it Wanted To Run but Than it Stop like it was losing Power for it to Run.
All it does after that first Crank is the Starter cranks it but Not fire Up to Start Up just like on the First Video I had.
Well I had did Change Some Connectors before I had put this Motor In maybe one of the wiring is put in the wrong order....
Can you tell me on Your Coil Pack Connector which Side is Negative and Positive of the Wire on your Connector?
Also Which Wire is Negative and Positive on your Water Temp Sensor Connector?
THANKS
03-24-17, 07:37 AM
#10
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03-31-17, 04:11 PM
#13
ok! next question. have you figured out what size the factory 2jzgte intake pipe is that holds the mass air flow sensor? if your three in pipe you have now is larger than factory it will throw off the fuel demands for the engine. even the slightest big larger than stock or smaller changes the fuel trims drastically.
03-31-17, 09:57 PM
#14
Don't know much about these swaps but I'll post some quick findings from other problems:
- Timing was off. He spun the crank by hand and noticed one of the cams was wobbling and skipping a tooth every other turn.
- Solved it by doing the 12v fuel pump mod. Apparently the fuel pump ECU wasn't communicating correctly and that fixed it.
- The signal wire to a fuel pump was no good so he ran a accessory power line to it
- Was "missing the igniter cable from the Ik1 orange body plug pin 8 black cable that goes to the igniter and got spark to the coils and fuel to the engine"
- Ground issue to the engine block, diagnosed it by running a jumper wire from the battery ground to engine block
- Jumped pins fp and b+ in the diagnostic box and turned the key to the on position to see if the fuel pump primes. IF it does then jump starter relay pins 3 and 5 to see if it starts
- Jumpered clutch start switch, another jumped neutral safety switch (manual problems)
- Too large of a intake pipe where the MAF sits, from member TURBO819 on here
- Check all cam/crank sensors
- Verified ECU was not immobilizer one
- Problem with grounding on igniter and resistor pack
- Blocked Idle Air Control valve
Here is a diagram on this thread of ECU pinouts. Someone's ground to the fuel injectors were disconnected, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...n-t-start.html
Another diagram thread: http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...aristo-2jz-gte
- Timing was off. He spun the crank by hand and noticed one of the cams was wobbling and skipping a tooth every other turn.
- Solved it by doing the 12v fuel pump mod. Apparently the fuel pump ECU wasn't communicating correctly and that fixed it.
- The signal wire to a fuel pump was no good so he ran a accessory power line to it
- Was "missing the igniter cable from the Ik1 orange body plug pin 8 black cable that goes to the igniter and got spark to the coils and fuel to the engine"
- Ground issue to the engine block, diagnosed it by running a jumper wire from the battery ground to engine block
- Jumped pins fp and b+ in the diagnostic box and turned the key to the on position to see if the fuel pump primes. IF it does then jump starter relay pins 3 and 5 to see if it starts
- Jumpered clutch start switch, another jumped neutral safety switch (manual problems)
- Too large of a intake pipe where the MAF sits, from member TURBO819 on here
- Check all cam/crank sensors
- Verified ECU was not immobilizer one
- Problem with grounding on igniter and resistor pack
- Blocked Idle Air Control valve
Here is a diagram on this thread of ECU pinouts. Someone's ground to the fuel injectors were disconnected, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...n-t-start.html
Another diagram thread: http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...aristo-2jz-gte
Last edited by GS400V8; 03-31-17 at 10:04 PM.
