GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

PICS: HID Headlight Restore Before/After

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Old 01-27-17, 12:24 PM
  #16  
AmanO
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Originally Posted by ericherm1
Actually I only wax them every 5-6 months when I wax the car..... nothing much more than that. So since I did them they've only been waxed maybe 2x. A good polish will provide the same level of UV protectant without drying out like shaker can clear often does over time. Just my experience and opinion. I respect yours as well.
You also live in Virginia.
I agree with what you are saying, but the tune can be different in CA or Florida, etc.
Clear coating the lenses also gives you another layer you can take down with sanding. Best cases would be to wax every 3-6 months depending on climate for a NEW set or sanding, clearcoating and THEN waxing every 3-6 for a used old set.
Old 01-30-17, 08:47 AM
  #17  
LexusK
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So two questions:

I bought the 2K Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat from Amazon, but also stopped by an Autozone and saw that they sold some Rustoleum Clear Lacquer. What's the difference between the two?

What is the "correct" method to cleaning up your headlights? Wet sand, apply plastx (is this the UV coat?), spray the clear coat, let it cure/dry, wax/polish/buff so it doesn't have the orange peel look to it? I was also going to apply some rainx at the very end after everything has dried and cured as well.
Old 02-08-17, 11:10 PM
  #18  
AVSRacing
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Did you guys do this by hand? I used one of those head light restore buffer kits where you attach to a drill, but I wasn't able to get out all of the deeper scratch marks that the coarser grain sand paper left.
Old 02-09-17, 02:59 AM
  #19  
ericherm1
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Originally Posted by AVSRacing
Did you guys do this by hand? I used one of those head light restore buffer kits where you attach to a drill, but I wasn't able to get out all of the deeper scratch marks that the coarser grain sand paper left.
Those kits are a quick fix. To get those scratches out its going to take some real elbow grease.

What you'll need:
LOTS of water
firm but flexible sanding block (I use hard sponge)
800grit wet (black) sandpaper
1200grit wet (black) sandpaper
2000grit wet (black) sandpaper
Good plastic compound or paint compound either or
Your choice in glaze polish
*clear coat spray can (some choose to use this as well)
------------------------------
Steps:

Clean off the light
Tape around the light or pull housing off the car
start with the 800 wrapped around the sponge and keep it wet (the water removes the plastic your cutting away while sanding and provides a lubricant) The 800 is the cutting stage, this is where you will keep going until all the deep scratches are out.
Once your satisfied with the removal of the deep scratches move on to the 1200; again keep it wet.
Moving on to the 2000 grit paper you'll notice the lens becomes more cloudy and almost transparent instead of scratchy looking.

At this point you have 2 options.
1. continue on to the compound and polishing -or-
2. spay the light with clear coat.

If you choose to spray the light use a light coat at first followed by 2-4 mild even coats allowing 10-15 min between coats to tack up.
Let dry completely and re-sand with 2000 grit wet to remove the orange peal

Next you either skip the clear or have already cleared you will use buffing compound. Some people use plastic compound or paint compound. The plastic compound is a bit finer and is a slower cut but both get the job done.
Upon completion of buffing compound the light will look clear and to most done but it is not.
To finish the light you MUST apply glaze or wax to seal the plastic or clear!

Oh yeah when buffing be careful with your speed. You don't want to burn the plastic!

When satisfied with your work remove the tape or reinstall the light housing.

Those are my steps--- feel free to modify as you see fit.
Old 02-09-17, 12:23 PM
  #20  
AVSRacing
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^^ Thanks, when sanding did you do it in a straight motion or circular? As the drill buffers are circular. I think I'll look into taking the headlights off first, I last did it with them on and the tape doesn't really protect against slips of the hand.
Old 02-10-17, 04:29 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by AVSRacing
^^ Thanks, when sanding did you do it in a straight motion or circular? As the drill buffers are circular. I think I'll look into taking the headlights off first, I last did it with them on and the tape doesn't really protect against slips of the hand.
I did it by hand in crisscross motion. I also let the paper do the work and not heavy pressure. I was able to use heavy painters tape doubled up and because I did it by hand I didn't have the problems machines give you. For best results the light should come out and affixed in a vice or something.
Old 02-18-17, 08:15 AM
  #22  
maligned98
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Any one have haze INSIDE of the lens as well? I've buffed mine but have found the inside of the plastic is also degrading
Can the lens be removed to fix the interior?
Old 02-18-17, 02:20 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by maligned98
Any one have haze INSIDE of the lens as well? I've buffed mine but have found the inside of the plastic is also degrading
Can the lens be removed to fix the interior?
Are you sure they're hazed on the inside? It's usually just on the outside. You have to put your lights in the oven to open them up.
Old 02-18-17, 06:38 PM
  #24  
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250deg for about 10 min
make sure you put a cup of water in there too or set the lights on water soaked cardboard in the oven.
Old 02-19-17, 05:03 PM
  #25  
maligned98
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Originally Posted by SpectraBlu
Are you sure they're hazed on the inside? It's usually just on the outside. You have to put your lights in the oven to open them up.
Yeh I'm sure it's on the inside. I've done the wet sanding the compound polishing. Also happended to take the car to a panel shop and he confirmed it was inside.
Old 02-19-17, 05:04 PM
  #26  
maligned98
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Originally Posted by ericherm1
250deg for about 10 min
make sure you put a cup of water in there too or set the lights on water soaked cardboard in the oven.
Ok this sounds like a good plan. Thanks!
Old 02-19-17, 07:14 PM
  #27  
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That will loosen the glue enough for you to pry the lenses off. When you clean then just repeat the process to make the glue sticky again to reassemble.
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Old 02-20-17, 06:54 PM
  #28  
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And also make sure to remove all screws so it'll disassemble easier
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Old 02-24-17, 07:23 AM
  #29  
eyecon7
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Bump I have wet sanded my lights a few times! but it doesnt look New. I have OEM HID and decided to just swap with Ebay lens and buy the sealant from TRS, came out great.


Old 02-24-17, 07:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by eyecon7
Bump I have wet sanded my lights a few times! but it doesnt look New. I have OEM HID and decided to just swap with Ebay lens and buy the sealant from TRS, came out great.


The lens was probably too far gone. If the lens has yellowed, I mean really yellowed. No matter what you do it will only be clear yellow plastic. Good job!
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