Originally Posted by Mr Jokster

Originally Posted by Mr Jokster

I believe you have some knowledge in mobile audio, but theres a LOT more to it all. I don't want to continue because I'll bring out one of my famous 5000+ word essays in car audio 101. If one wants something done right, yes, science does have to be involved. There are many people who do audio in their garages, doesnt mean they know whats going on. Merit will be given, because there are some skills involved in fabrication, however I believe installing car audio is the most simplest thing to do, just 3 wires, ANYone can do it. I'm glad you've done competition, its fun and very challenging, but you very well know, competition has nothing to do with reliability, its about forcing it. I've been doing car audio for close to 20 years, owned my own shop and now moved on from it only doing contract jobs for local shops, yet still keeping up with what I can.

Originally Posted by mizike

Yea I do and not just garage ok systems. Of course you can get super technical but it is a fix. You wire your system with correct Guage wires. You use a stronger battery like an optima for the bass hits that are too strong for your alternator you do the big 3 upgrade and you won't get dimming. A higher output alternator helps tremendously as well with the big 3 upgrade wires. It's that simple and the system is competition level clear with great bass notes. No dimm lights no extra strain on your electrical system which was the issue on the topic. You can get super technical but it is easy. Voltage and amps equal how many watts it supports and the battery covers the bass drops. Up to 2k watts no issues pure clean sound no dimming lights. Use garbage amps. Crap wiring system things get bad quick. Use precision power. Nakamichi or even jl audio or alpine with a solid sub run with the upgrades no issues. That is definitely not 3 wired or that easy either. People mess it up all the time. Run your wires like power and ground on opposite sides of the car. Some use 18 Guage wire for a sub. Or run 1000 watts without the big 3 upgrade and wonder why their lights dimming and they strangle the alternator. This was just the easy basics to take care of the question and reason for the ho alternator and a better battery

Originally Posted by mizike

I got mine from them, not off ebay but the site, and they have the newer better 250amp one as well that also fits stock with no alterations. I have a few friends that have them in their cars no issues, one was DOA, got one 2 days later from them, and he has had it for 3 years no issues, the others are going on two plus years no issues. Mine was tested by my mechanic, 14.4v 200amps at 3k rpm, 160 amps at 1800rpm, 150 idle. Its in my lexus, fixed my ABS and electrical issues. They have sold a hell of alot of them and 90 percent or higher have given them 4 to 5 stars, so that and the couple I knew of was enough for me to give it a shot because like you said, MY STOCK BOSCH was going to be 200 bux, I got the built up 200amp from BnR for 170 shipped with a warranty, so not much risk really. Will see how it goes down the road but for the money, the amount of sales, I think well worth it. No like pointed out its not a mechman or DC POWER but they are 400 bux minimum, for the price I dont think they can be a bad choice with a warranty.

Originally Posted by Mr Jokster

Sounds like good news However, what do the amperes look like? Voltage is always going to drop, thats not the issue, its how the amperes draw that causes the lights to flicker. I'm curious to see THOSE numbers Most likely though, the dim lights stopped more from the extra juice (battery). Usually the purpose of a high output alternator is so you DONT have to get a second battery I'm very curious to see how the alternator works without the extra juice. Have you taken a long trip bumpin hard for a very long time so you can suck the batteries dry? THAT will test the alternator What equipment are you running? Do you know how many amps your amplifiers draw?

I ran 4 batteries with the stock alternator for 10 years and never had a problem No dim lights or anything because I never drained the batteries enough to run off the alternator.


ok i'm done. I get too much into the science of things.



Oh and... You MUST get that isolator back in there! Or at the very least, run a diode. You WILL destroy your batteries! The ONLY way you can run multiple batteries without them going bad (which is still a bad idea) is to have all of them (or both in your case) be the exact same battery. In short, batteries are not all created equal (even if they're the same model). They all discharge at their own rates, so if you have them wired together and you're playing music or using whatever accessories, one will drop amperes just a little more than the other, so what happens when you turn the car off? The battery that has a bit less juice will suck the juice from the other battery so it will equalize its content, basically they try to charge each other. Now you have 2 batteries with less juice than before. In time of this happening over and over, they begin to lose their charging ability. Especially if you have a deep cycle as an auxiliary battery and a normal starter battery up front.