mizike

Science doesn't have to be involved in this. Yes a solid optima battery stops the lights from dimming when the bass hits because it pulls more than the alternator can handle. Yes science and mathematics all add up. I've been installing and in competition sound systems for a long freaking time. Regardless of science most people are using good amps. Maybe 1000 watts for the sub. 4 or 500 watts for the rest of the system. Stock alternators handle them fine with a good optima battery and the big 3 upgrade done. No dimming. No capacitors . No extra batteries in the trunk etc. A little bit better of an alternator is just a boost and helps. A 100 amp alternator runs 1000 watt system with no issues and no dimming. Dimming would come from bad installs. Wrong size wires. The big 3 not done and choking your alternator. Horribly cheap immeficient amplifiers etc. If your running 1500 to 2k watts then a good 150 to 200 amp alternator helps alot and you will have no dimming no issues. I have never had my lights dim even on 100amp alternators and have always hit huge dB and 1000 watts minimum to my sub or subs. Only reason I upgraded the lexus is because it's only holding about 60 to 70 amps with the car on which is no good. All my other cars had 90 to 120 amps with the car running. The bigger better battery is also a huge deal when you run your system with the engine off which happens many times in parking lots and shows. Yes science and mathematics and all that matter but it's pretty simple in reality to avoid dimming and strain your electrical system until your going to 3k to 4k watts which most people are not installing.

ok [/QUOTE]

Mr Jokster

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xStayTuned

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thanks for all the input guys, im taking care of the big 3 tonight to help in the meantime just got all my 2 gauge wire in.

i dont seem to be able to find where to get an iraggi alternator his website only list domestics and acuras unless youre using a different model? dcpower also doesnt seem to have a listing for any 2jz motors either.

and the main reason for the post i also wanted to see how anyone who has purchased a high output is holding up now.

xStayTuned

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also im researching smaller pulleys since i see that a lot of these high outputs come with a smaller pulley, does anyone notice a significant difference between the smaller pulley vs oem, because i am debating once i buy one whether to just install my oem pulley from the oem alternator instead of using the smaller one.

sakataj

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this is the only contact info i have from him and when he is in the shop he doesnt generally answer, he literally is a small business who makes a great product. he did my install completely

call or email him....

1-615-594-8965
1-615-287-7991

dominick@tds.net

mizike

Yeah thats why I would go with BNR parts man, if not sonic electronix has the mechman for our cars, same concept as DC power and Suprastore has them for our engines as well, just email them and they have them, same engine, high output alternator. http://www.suprastore.com/higoutal175a.html Or POWER BASTARDS has them to but they are universal fit, so usually need a little modification. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...Baudio%5D=Base

mizike

Love the thumbs up lol

SpectraBlu

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Yeah, I got a good laugh from that too

Mr Jokster

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lest not forget, it was fueled with tons of sarcasm due to an uneducated response...

SpectraBlu

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That's what made it extra funny

Mr Jokster

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There is a difference in output, thats the reason for the smaller pulley. Just like when you put a smaller pulley on a supercharger, it provides more output. The problem with a smaller pulley is obviously its spinning your alternator faster which will increase brush and bearing wear and lead to premature failure. You can put a smaller pulley on any alternator, but if its not built to handle the extra wear i.e. heavy duty components, then the life of it will be short. Yea, you can replaced it every time for a small $$ amount, but many believe its better to save up and get exactly what you need instead of cheating.

Anyways... One of the features I liked about DC Power (and I would hope its something other companies do) is, they have 2 different types of alternators. One that will give higher output at idle than a standard alternator, but give standard output at 2 rpms. For instance, if a standard alt puts out a max of 100a at 2 rpms and only like 60a at idle, a 100a max from DC would put out 80a at idle. Now DC's OTHER alternator would do the opposite, higher output at 2 rpms and lower output at idle. So their 60a output (at idle) alternator will put out 150a at 2 rpms. All this is done by internal regulation. Again, these are made up numbers for example. Their site gives much more detail.

IIRC, they have a section that educates how the electrical system works and how to choose an alternator for your needs. Its a good read for personal knowledge.

mizike

Yeah it was, but it was also a bit incorrect, my post is accurate in regards to the lights dimming, the battery helping with that, the big 3 upgrade helping and stopping it, and correct wiring of your sound sytem and the alternator amps working with the 1500 to 2k watt systems, so I didnt go as technical and scientific but my information is accurate.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

My last response to it all... Causality isn't the definition of a solution to a problem. You keep saying it "helps". When doing something correctly, you don't 'help' fix a problem, you fix the problem; the root problem.

don't make me bring the thumb back out!


I believe you have some knowledge in mobile audio, but theres a LOT more to it all. I don't want to continue because I'll bring out one of my famous 5000+ word essays in car audio 101. If one wants something done right, yes, science does have to be involved. There are many people who do audio in their garages, doesnt mean they know whats going on. Merit will be given, because there are some skills involved in fabrication, however I believe installing car audio is the most simplest thing to do, just 3 wires, ANYone can do it. I'm glad you've done competition, its fun and very challenging, but you very well know, competition has nothing to do with reliability, its about forcing it. I've been doing car audio for close to 20 years, owned my own shop and now moved on from it only doing contract jobs for local shops, yet still keeping up with what I can.

ok, I'm done. I have to go poopoo

... real bad

mizike

Yea I do and not just garage ok systems. Of course you can get super technical but it is a fix. You wire your system with correct Guage wires. You use a stronger battery like an optima for the bass hits that are too strong for your alternator you do the big 3 upgrade and you won't get dimming. A higher output alternator helps tremendously as well with the big 3 upgrade wires. It's that simple and the system is competition level clear with great bass notes. No dimm lights no extra strain on your electrical system which was the issue on the topic. You can get super technical but it is easy. Voltage and amps equal how many watts it supports and the battery covers the bass drops. Up to 2k watts no issues pure clean sound no dimming lights. Use garbage amps. Crap wiring system things get bad quick. Use precision power. Nakamichi or even jl audio or alpine with a solid sub run with the upgrades no issues. That is definitely not 3 wired or that easy either. People mess it up all the time. Run your wires like power and ground on opposite sides of the car. Some use 18 Guage wire for a sub. Or run 1000 watts without the big 3 upgrade and wonder why their lights dimming and they strangle the alternator. This was just the easy basics to take care of the question and reason for the ho alternator and a better battery

Mr Jokster

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