kphu

iTrader: (8)

MarcyproJe and lyonkster just curious what rotors did you buy? I bought Centrics off of Amazon...

lyonkster

I had Brembos, which were the ones that had awful looking cracks. I then switched to the Centrics from Amazon, which I like (especially because the clunk went away).

There is no radial play, they sit very nicely on the hub. There is however a lot of tangential play (probably close to +/- 1/16"). So I can see that if the lugnuts are not tight enough, the rotors could potentially slide around back and forth. Though I think the lugnuts would need to be dangerously loose for that to happen.

MarcyproJe

I agree 100%. I could have spent this on stuff that was much more fun. I will definitely be registering though. thx for the link

MarcyproJe

I got the "gold" level front rotors from advance auto. Passenger side fits much better but still has gap between the stud and the hole. the drivers side really wont even hold itself up on the hub. It has a hole on the rotor where you could screw it down to the hub, but my 99 doesnt have that hole. That would solve this problem but it seems it wasnt used until like 2000+

SpectraBlu

iTrader: (1)

Did you load your suspension before torquing all your bolts? I changed all that stuff last year and didn't put enough of a load on my suspension when I tightened it and it would make a popping sound. A week later I loosened everything, then retorqued everything with the proper load on the suspension and it was all good.

MarcyproJe

Might anyone know of a set of rotors confirmed to fit the studs tight with no space for play?

lyonkster

Are you sure you go the right rotors for the car? The hub and the rotor should have a pretty close tolerance, as that is what maintains concentricity, not the studs.

That threaded hole in the rotor is not for bolting the rotor to the hub, it's for threading a screw into it to break away a frozen/rusted rotor from a hub.

MarcyproJe

I guess any time you are dealing with folks at your local parts counter, always liable to get bad parts. When i got these it was one of the only times i didnt order online ahead of time too. I may go ahead and replace the potentially bad one to rule it out i guess.

kphu

iTrader: (8)

No I didn't...I'm planning to replace my upper control arm so I might just do that but I might not because of the update below.


Update...this might be too early to say...knock on wood... but this morning when I drove to work no more clunking sound. Still curious to know what it is.

MarcyproJe

I think im going to go ahead and go after a new rotor for the drivers side. I just cant help but think that is the source of the problem. Every time the front end compresses a little or with any potential shift of the front wheels, it clunks. I go from park to reverse, the wheels move slightly, clunk. Back into drive, slight movement, clunk. Any time the wheel changes direction it makes a sound.

lyonkster

That sounds like a good starting point. Also double check how your pad clips are installed in the calipers, there are several different ways to install them. And make sure the lugnuts are tight (~76 ft-lbs).

kphu

iTrader: (8)

+1

MarcyproJe

FYI this is the rotors I bought off of amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MarcyproJe

thanks for the link. Im going to try a different store here locally and buy another rotor of a totally different brand. Fingers crossed. Ill feel like a total jackass if this ends up being the fix.lol Might even grab it tonight if I can scrape up a few extra bux but def by tomorrow it will be done.

lyonkster

Yep, these are ones I got too.

MarcyproJe

Any feeback on the fit? any issues?