airahcaz

I pushed my 98 GS4 to above 100 mph briefly last night, which I haven't done in a while, and it wasn't as confident as it used to be when switching lanes.

Is one of the symptoms of being a bit floaty vs firm that leads to suspension needing replacement? If so, which parts?

TIA

kevin3344

The only suspension components I've replaced on my '99 GS400 were the lower ball joints @ 172k and caster arm assemblies @ 195k.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

First thing that comes to mind is maybe your sway links. Doesnt hurt to check your struts.

One thing Id recommend (which I do frequently because I'm on bags and is the GREATEST thing I ever do) was replace EVERYthing up front, just for the hell of it Depending on if you're brand crazy or not, you can get full kits for under $300 on ebay .

I replaced, LBJ, Inner/outer tie rods, sway links (all around), For $200 (all Moog Parts) then a set of upper control arms will run you a few hundred (unless you get the ebay kit or just replace the bushings). This was an AMAZING difference of 'tighness' or firmness. Not stiff, just, well perfect. I'm on bags, so didnt need to replace any of that. Of course doing all the work makes it free, but if paying someone, then this is probably not an option Sway links are very easy to do yourself and you can get them for like $30 for the pair.

Now something I should have asked. What do you mean floaty? You say floaty, but you mention when changing lanes. You get float from hitting little hills or bumps, not from changing lanes. Changing lanes would give you a wobbly effect (which is why I lean towards the links) or body roll which would be more of a strut/spring issue.

in addition, inner and outer tie rod replacement will give you a phenomenal feeling in your steering, lots more control. If your ball joints were bad though, you'd feel the wobble in your steering at those higher speeds, so doubt those would be the problem, but too could contribute, thus the reason its best to replace all as a whole.

airahcaz

You're correct, it's when I hit bumps. And btw I did replace all of these. Are there struts / springs to replace?

"
I replaced, LBJ, Inner/outer tie rods, then a set of upper control arms"...

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Forgive me, maybe its just the internet translation (and I mean no sarcasm by this question LoL) What do you mean, "are there strut/springs to replace?" um, yea all cars require shocks/struts and springs so yes there are shocks and springs to replace I would think it to be more of a shock issue rather than a spring problem though.

Easy to check. Just bounce the car by hand on each corner of the vehicle and watch how the car moves. When you push down, it should center itself and stop. but if it continues to move up THEN down to center, then its bad. Its best to replace both in the front even if only one is out or both the rears if just one is bad or else the new one will be tighter than the older one and give you a wobbly bounce since they arent equal in stiffness.

airahcaz

I don't recall ever replacing shocks/struts and springs.
Any idea what I can expect to replace all four?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

As in cost? or work involved?

Either way, parts' cost (if you go KYB, which is a good choice) about $100 a piece, or you can get some from like autozone for ~$50 bucks a pop.

As for install, as long as you have proper tools including spring compressors (rent-able through autozone at no cost), its a rather simple install, about 20-30mins per shock.

airahcaz

Nope, no such tools, going to have to pay a mechanic.

At what mileage is it recommended to be changed? Do they last 50K, 100K?

Thanks

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

All you need is a #17 or 18 wrench or socket for the bottom bolt of the strut, #12 or 14 for the strut mount. And the spring compressor.

As for recommend replacement, I have no clue. Either way, recommended replacement time does nothing, it all depends on how the car is driven. You can replaced them at 200k just as soon as you would at 20k if its abused. Just like oil changing. 3k miles is recommended, but not necessary if the car is in perfect running order and isnt driven hard. An effed up engine thats driven hard all the time would probably need oil every

Alphaman19

Regarding the spring compressor, I'd rented it from the local auto parts store and punked out when I began to compress the first spring as all I could think of was the amount of force/potential energy being loaded with each turn of my wrench.

Should I have just kept the faith or should I question my manhood?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Question your manhood! LoL As long as it has the safety hooks, you're good. There are hooks that wrap almost all the way around the spring that are attached to the device. IF the device slips off the spring, those hooks hold on.

Things to be aware of:

Make sure you turn each side evenly
Make sure each side of the tool stays parallel to the spring (they like to slide in an angle)

Dont forget, you dont have to compress the spring 5 inches. All you need to do is compress them just enough to loosen the strut bolt. So basically only need too compress them like half an inch or so.


Some reassurance? My FIRST time every using this tool as a child, I had NO clue what I was doing. Didnt use the safety hooks, compressed the springs too much. As I began to remove the strut bolt, the tool slipped off and shhhhhhhhhhhoooom! Till this day, I dont think that bolt ever came back down from wherever it went LoL but I was fine.

Search online and find out ways people have learned to make it less 'scary'. Remember though, if you only compress the spring enough to loosen the strut bolt, worst case scenario, the tool falls off and the spring only pops that little half inch that you compressed it. No injury to yourself, maybe a quick buzz on your hand or finger. I think its the anticipation thats worse When it slips off, its just gonna make a big, fast movement like someone jumping out at you and will scare the shat out of you, but not gonna hurt you.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

I just made a thread asking about this in the Suspension sub forum lol. Got a link for all these parts? I was just going to do the whole front end and I was thinking about going OEM or Daizen. I remember reading somewhere that Moog might not be reliable? What are your thoughts on Moog?

airahcaz

Hi can you post your thread link please

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

Here it is. It's under the 2GS sub forums

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...-overhaul.html

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Heres a link on details of some of the products and their part numbers. I even have pictures to compare stock to Moog to show how much better quality they look.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ml#post7279637

Read the whole thing on where I bought them from and HOW I bought them to save money.