Grod

Hey all, I apologize in advance for the long post!

I bought a '98 GS300 earlier this week for next to nothing. I knew the car had some rust issues and was rear ended but for the price I figured I'd take my chance.

After taking the car home and tearing it apart, it appears the cars has more issues than I thought.

1. Rear end damage - The car was rear ended and the whole rear end was replaced with a rear end similar to this...


The rebar has been replaced and there was a sticker with the Local Lexus dealership and was dated from 2002. After talking with the dealership, they said they don't contract out any body work so the work was most likely done by the Lexus dealership.

My main concern is this, after tearing apart the trunk I noticed a lot of stress cracks and separation along the seams where the panels were joined. I'd like some opinions from some knowledgeable Lexus owners whether this is still safe for the street or if the stress is causing the rear end to twist and break off....

Driver side trunk














Passenger Side Trunk









2. Rust

Being a Canadian car driven in the winter, there is a lot of rust. the main area where the rust is is where the rear quarter panels were replaced as the same time as the rear end. There is a lot of rust around the wheel well to the point where there is a hole from the trunk area to the wheel well. Also the rockers before the rear wheel is also very corroded. Lastly, there is two large holes in the passenger side trunk and the panel is separating from the bottom of the trunk






















Conclussion

So I was hoping to get some opinions on my options and answer some of my questions

1. I was thinking of just cutting out the rear passenger fender behind the tire and repairing it using 3M panel bonding adhesive and some sheet metal. Just cut out the metal, shape it and glue it in using the 3M adhesive. Is this a structural area or could I get away with a quick repair.

2. The wheel well I was thinking of doing something similar but with fiberglass and paper/cardboard mould shaped to the contours and edges of the inside wheel well and using POR15 on the exterior.

3. Add 3M panel bonding adhesive to all the repaired areas where there is cracking and separation where the old panels and replacement panels meet. Would this be sufficient?

I paid $1300CAD so ~$950USD, and it has a clean title

Again, to clarify, I'm not looking to have a really clean car and have no intent on modifying this car at all besides maybe just practicing and having some fun learning to vinyl wrap, paint dash & trim and redo carpet/headliner in long soft pimp like **** carpetting.

So just would like to know if my plans to fix to issues and drive it until I can buy a newer car would be sufficient or if cutting out the rear fender behind the wheel is too structural of an area

Also if the cracks and separation are a sign to just run away as quick as possibly since the car might just rip apart or the frame is bent and twisting, causing the welds and seams to crack/separate

Thanks guys

JEBAAY

Walk away!!

JJaySilver

Damn, this car is ****ed! I wouldn't attempt to restore it myself, looks like way to much work and money to get it back. Plus, the possibility of finding more unrepairable rust hidden somewhere. Walk away.

SoCal Cyco

iTrader: (20)

get the hell away!!!!!!!!!!!!

Revive

iTrader: (1)

Drive it. Find something in better condition later. But don't chase the rabbit down the hole.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

I would drive it into the ground while fixing nothing if not just patching the holes so water doesn't get it as long as you don't start throwing money into it

lostape45

I agree, if the powertrain is in good condition then just drive it until it dies. Obviously its rusty as all get out but just drive it until you can find a nicer one, I think you'll fall in love with the 2GS.

Grod

Hmm mixed opinions which i guess should be expected but thanks for the input!

I purchased a Carproof report for the car since I was starting to become skeptical if the car did only have 118,000kms as stated on the odometer, especially with all the rust.

-Report stated a rear end collision back in 2002, repaired at a cost of $11,083 CAD. So that was when the rear end was replaced.
-It also stated that in 2009 it was rear ended AGAIN and fixed at a cost of $3500 CAD.

To be clear, this is NOT in any way meant to be a car to invest money in. No rims, coils, etc. Just a comfortable $950 USD car with leather heated seats to drive for awhile until something major happens and I can walk away from it.

As some people suggested, I'm just going to fix the holes and drive the car without putting any real money into it. The engine in the car runs perfect, starts with no hesitation, steady idle, no smoke from blown head gasket, piston rings or valve seals.

I'll update tomorrow with some pics.

SoCal Cyco

iTrader: (20)

for $950 you better keep it. just don't put any thing but maintenance into it. nothing cosmetic as you stated. but that is a hell of a come up for that price!!

firelizard

iTrader: (1)

Don't walk, run.

If it costs $950, and you don't mind doing work, you could part it out and probably turn a profit over the course of a year.

ta1972

iTrader: (1)

If it was a 01-05 depending on the mileage, then I might fix. Since this is a older 98, I would not fix,
Just my opinion.

newgsman

iTrader: (4)

Having lots of experience with old rusty cars, I would say just patch it up and use it as a winter beater. You will never beat the rust once it starts but if you just keep spraying the rusty areas with rust spray you can slow it down significantly. Just make sure you patch up the holes first otherwise you are going to get fumes into the car.

Take a real good look at the rear frame rails. If they are still sound and solid my personal guess is that the seam welds will not be much of an issue (I am guessing here). Maybe a good welder could redo them for you. Check the alignment on the car.

Check the brake lines, fuels lines, and gas tank for rust. I had to replace the gas tank on mine.

If you can get a safety check for the car it will be a fairly reliable car for the price you paid.

Grod

Hey sorry for the lack of updates, I've been literally putting in 10, 12 hours days to get the body work done. I'm on vacation this week so I'm trying to do as much work as possible to get it on the road soon. Also usually at this time of the year, we would have a lot more snow and it would be a hell of a lot colder to work outside.

Here's some updates on what I've been doing with the body

DISCLAIMER: I in no way endorse this as a DIY method or safe, proper way to address rust and body work on your vehicle. This is more like a 'See how to fix a P.O.S. rusted out rear end with as little money as possible on your 2 weeks Christmas vacation guide.

So I decided to patch up the body using fiberglass and bondo, obviously it's not the same as welding in new metal but I only plan on keeping the car for a year or two and have no plans to sell it to an unsuspected buyer down the road. The car will probably be scrapped and parted once I find a nicer one and I have the extra money.

Underneath the drivers side kickplate, there was about a ~2.5" diam. hole which I filled with bondo and sanded down. The whole area is now primed and ready for paint.






The rear passenger side trunk area was where there was a lot of rust and corrosion. I laid a few layers of fiberglass from the inside to have some rigidity. Beforehand I could push right down and the panel would almost break off, now it's rigid and seals the trunk from the elements.










The rocker before the rear wheel on the passenger side was also very rusted out. I again laid fiberglass to keep the panel from completely breaking apart. Now there is some rigidity.








after investigating around the inner rear passenger wheel well I could see the full extent of the rust. It seems whether it was Lexus replacing the rear end or someone else, they didn't weld/ seal the seam above the wheel completely so there was a lot of rust and corrosion. I decided to fill the area will PL adhesive to just add some structure and in hope of keeping the panel from breaking apart more. Also, I only used PL adhesive 200 because I had it lying around the garage, I'm sure there's something more suitable for this type of job. The PL glue was injected into the edges and I used my finger and some spit to mold it similar to putty into the corners. At the very least, the fenders will be more solid, though no rolled fenders here!


























Lastly, underneath the rear passenger kick plate there was also some corrosion. I had sanded down the rear before when I noticed the welded seam so I had to clean it up anyways. Also with the fiberglass in the area I had to sand it down the paint part of the door jam to clean everything up. Luckily, I only have the make the edges clean as most of that part of the door jams are covered by the kick plate.










After the door jams are primed and paint matched, I'm going coat the inside wheel wells, the underbody and everything that was fiberglassed from the exterior with POR15, a rust preventative coating, just to try to seal everything up and get the most life out of it as I can. Overall, that should last me a year or two, and stop or at least slow down the whole rear quarter panel rotting out.

STREETGS

part it out

Stereorob

oooooooh shese got serious cancer.... but hey if she runs good and everything still works just drive it as a beater car till it blows up and then get a nice one. hell id give $950 for a rusty 2GS if it ran perfect and everything was still working on it. not too many miles either. score!