mikearisto

Hi newbie here as far as posting but been behind the scenes reading and using all the collective knowledge from many posters , But now I'm stuck and can't find a legit answer . Long story short alternator took a crap on me was having that vvti cam seal leak along with some other leaks and finally alternator took a crap before this car was running perfect . Got a new battery and new alternator car drives fine( fixed leaks as well) but since this has happened now I have codes c0226 c0236 c0246 c1223 per my Autel al619 reader and no matter how many times I reset it , it comes back ! Sometimes not until after 25 minutes of driving sometimes once I turn the car on and hit the gas . Any ideas ? FYI I have 32 Hondas/acuras 1 galant vr4 1 95 impala and now my gs under my belt so I would like to consider myself pretty handy and very well versed in motors and cars in general . Thanks for the help !

mikearisto

Did try to zero point calibration but to no avail might be doing something wrong .

vijayn

Hey bud, it seems like there maybe a 12V power or ground wire on your ABS / VSC ecu thats not connected (open / short circuit / corroded connections).
Either that or the actual ecu is faulty.

Check out the Wiring diagram and confirm that you have 12V and ground on all the correct pins of the ABS/VSC ecu. Do this when ign is on
JZS16x Electrical Wiring Diagram Book 6748505.pdf

mikearisto

Awesome thanks I'll check this once I get home now the one thing I forgot to mention is in mechanically inclined but I completely suck or rather don't trust in myself with wiring lol thanks for the diagram Ima try to re read it a few times I'm guessing multimeter and check to see all these sensors ?

mikearisto

lol I just re read your message thanks !!!! I'll check my pins ! And double check the wiring I was thinking it might be corrosion . also after installing new alternator it seemed like the car didn't like it for whatever reason lights kept flickering screen etc . Turned it off and on got the hot wire a little tighter on and it worked fine in the process of tightening the hot wire made contact with the header and caught some sparking action but checked fuses and they where fine . Sorry for the long post and thanks for the assistance I'll report back !

mikearisto

Just to be clear the diagram of the connectors and the numbers on the connectors I should check to make sure this continuity and voltage right

vijayn

Yer while the ignition is on, you can check to see if you have 12V + on all the correct pins. (black probe on a good ground like negative battery post and positive probe on the pin your measuring - you should see 12V if they are good connections).

Then measure to see if all your ground pins are good by turning ignition on again and checking all the ground pins (positive probe on 12V battery post and black probe on ground pins on the abs/vsc ecu - you should see 12V again if they are good connections.

According to the diagram, here are all the pins that should have 12V when ign is on -The ground pins are -Just refer to the connector picture for the pin location.

Hope this makes sense mate.

mikearisto

Thank you sir! Sorry with the holidays and food comas I've been stuck with family not being able to mess with the car however yesterday my tech stream finally came plugged it in and it seems like there a lot of ecus that aren't communicating which leads me to believe it's the loose wire thanks again I'll keep posted

vijayn

Cool man, just as an extra thing - did you check all the fuses?

mikearisto

Sorry for the late response but I found out what the issue was . First I think it was this forum where some members where having a discussion about new and reman alternators , and someone stated that there's no such thing as a new alternator since they're all just remans. This person was correct I went through 3 NEW tyco alternators finally gave up and went to autozone got one from them and boom the problem was gone no more charging issue and no more lights !!!! Cars back to normal! The first alternator had a bad diode second one bad resister or something of that sort and the last one had a bad voltage blah blah can't remember exactly but point is new isn't new anymore usually means rebuilt when it comes to alternators . Thanks vijayn for the help much appreciated !

vijayn

Man that's unfortunate to get 3 bad alternators in a row!
Im glad you got it sorted out in the end.

rossmer

I just recently had these exact same 4 ABS codes on my 99 GS300 with 145K along with ABS, VSC and VSC OFF lights on the dash. Turned out to be a bad alternator not putting out sufficient voltage which in turn confused the ABS ECU. Car ran fine with no other indications other than the dash lights above. I was measuring around 12.6 V at the battery with the car running at 2500 RPMs and under load (lights on, blower, AC, wipers on). This should measure around 14.2 - 14.5 V running and under load. After replacing with Advance Auto alternator all voltages are normal and codes and lights are gone for good. My alternator looked to be original Denso that was in the car initially. Had a good run.