99GS400 VSV for Charc Canister access
#1
99GS400 VSV for Charc Canister access
Can you get to the VSV for the charcoal canister under the car without removing the right side driveshaft?!!! Is it easy enough to get to it to replace with just a hydraulic floor jack? I don't expect to have to replace the canister itself. Am I going to have to take the car to somebody to get this done?
I already checked the VSV under the hood and it's clicking fine with 12V applied to connector.
I already checked the VSV under the hood and it's clicking fine with 12V applied to connector.
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (4)
Can you get to the VSV for the charcoal canister under the car without removing the right side driveshaft?!!! Is it easy enough to get to it to replace with just a hydraulic floor jack? I don't expect to have to replace the canister itself. Am I going to have to take the car to somebody to get this done?
I already checked the VSV under the hood and it's clicking fine with 12V applied to connector.
I already checked the VSV under the hood and it's clicking fine with 12V applied to connector.
#3
Instructor
***** that. this is one of the toughest jobs Ive done and that was years ago, I would still remove the canister or maybe unbolt it to replace the VSV just because its so difficult to access.
Here is how I did it without messing with the rear hub and rear control arms, please refer to the diagram below.
I did not take pics, it was very dirty under there and dirt was landing on my face.
Once I had the car jacked up I was done in 90 minutes...
Here is how I did it without messing with the rear hub and rear control arms, please refer to the diagram below.
I did not take pics, it was very dirty under there and dirt was landing on my face.
Once I had the car jacked up I was done in 90 minutes...
- Jack up and properly support the passenger side rear of the car.
- Remove passenger side rear wheel.
- Remove the rear suspension brace, both sides.
- Removed the 3 nuts that hold the canister and disconnecting 3 hoses and the 2 connectors.
- Remove the charcoal canister mounting bracket, 2 bolts on the right side of the assembly.
- Remove the 6 10mm allen head bolts that hold the RH rear drive shaft to the differential. Mark the alignment of the axle to the differential.
- Carefully push the axle outward and drop it down to the side.
- Remove the rubber band type hangers that supports the exhaust pipes. this will give you enough room to move the drive shaft a few more inches out of the way.
- Remove the charcoal canister assembly. It might take you a few minutes to fit it through the opening.
- Replacing the new assembly is reverse of removal, including removing the mounting bracket on the right side of the assembly.
- Torque the drive shaft bolts to 61 ft/lbs in a cross pattern
#4
You can. Just Jack up, remove wheel. You can get I there but it's a PITA. You will need a short, fat Philips screwdriver to remove the only screw holding the VSV in place. 2 people are good for this job. One guy holds the flashlight. There are 3 small vacuum hoses IIRC that are attached; make sure you attached them correctly to the new VSV. Good luck!
#5
***** that. this is one of the toughest jobs Ive done and that was years ago, I would still remove the canister or maybe unbolt it to replace the VSV just because its so difficult to access.
Here is how I did it without messing with the rear hub and rear control arms, please refer to the diagram below.
I did not take pics, it was very dirty under there and dirt was landing on my face.
Once I had the car jacked up I was done in 90 minutes...
Here is how I did it without messing with the rear hub and rear control arms, please refer to the diagram below.
I did not take pics, it was very dirty under there and dirt was landing on my face.
Once I had the car jacked up I was done in 90 minutes...
- Jack up and properly support the passenger side rear of the car.
- Remove passenger side rear wheel.
- Remove the rear suspension brace, both sides.
- Removed the 3 nuts that hold the canister and disconnecting 3 hoses and the 2 connectors.
- Remove the charcoal canister mounting bracket, 2 bolts on the right side of the assembly.
- Remove the 6 10mm allen head bolts that hold the RH rear drive shaft to the differential. Mark the alignment of the axle to the differential.
- Carefully push the axle outward and drop it down to the side.
- Remove the rubber band type hangers that supports the exhaust pipes. this will give you enough room to move the drive shaft a few more inches out of the way.
- Remove the charcoal canister assembly. It might take you a few minutes to fit it through the opening.
- Replacing the new assembly is reverse of removal, including removing the mounting bracket on the right side of the assembly.
- Torque the drive shaft bolts to 61 ft/lbs in a cross pattern
#6
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
im getting codes for all of these... really not looking forward to trying to find the culprit... its always something. i just got this damn car. Are you guys just replacing the canister? I got codes for the sensor, valve etc... what do you guys suggest? I just got a new gas cap on the way to start with that..
#7
Instructor
im getting codes for all of these... really not looking forward to trying to find the culprit... its always something. i just got this damn car. Are you guys just replacing the canister? I got codes for the sensor, valve etc... what do you guys suggest? I just got a new gas cap on the way to start with that..
Sounds to me like logic vacuum is disconnected...
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#8
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
i looked back at old threads at the two colored lines in the engine bay and checked them they were tight. I checked the lines near the airbox nothing unconnected. Car was fine for months with no cel. I cleared them and came back on in a day.. something must be up. My gas cap is crusty so ill start with that..
Last edited by dreamcar88; 11-12-15 at 12:21 PM.
#11
Just to reply back on my original post, I jacked up car to get under it but charcoal canister was too far under in the center above differential, and too hard to really get to. I punted. Didn't want to stay all the way under the jacked-up car. Ramps recommended for this job, or better yet, a lift, since you can't pull a wheel if using ramps.
#12
Racer
iTrader: (14)
Where did you guys buy your VSV from? I saw in another thread that Sewell sold it, but they are closed now. There were some Dorman VSV on ebay. I was quoted $500 to fix the charcoal canister after getting the PO446 code.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...p2047675.m4099
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...p2047675.m4099
#13
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 42
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Where did you guys buy your VSV from? I saw in another thread that Sewell sold it, but they are closed now. There were some Dorman VSV on ebay. I was quoted $500 to fix the charcoal canister after getting the PO446 code.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...p2047675.m4099
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...p2047675.m4099
#15
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (182)
i know this is a year old thread but there is a DIY on here someplace WITH pics. i searched for a moment but all i really found was me referring to it here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...vsv-today.html
and i dont see it here in the DIY sticky
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...iy-thread.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...vsv-today.html
and i dont see it here in the DIY sticky
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...iy-thread.html