GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

3rd oil change (long drains) with oil analysis GS400

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Old 08-17-15, 08:20 PM
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SaiyanGS3
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Originally Posted by RamAirRckt
I don't know a single automotive company that recommends or supports ANY additives to the oil. I wouldn't mess with adding anything. Let the oil chemists do their thing, adding oil additives is as bad as politicians mandating 10% ethanol (now 15% in some places) when they have no idea, nor do they care what it will do to your engine and fuel system, not to mention lower mpg. Few if any politicians are legitimate petroleum chemists who understand what ethanol (and formerly MTBE) do to cars! (That is a whole another soap box I don't wanna get started in!)

How does one know what the "German" Castrol even is? The bottle doesn't say it does it?

Still curious of the fascination on "German" Castrol. No one seems to look for any other brands of oils that are sold overseas. Anyone know?
GC is a great oil if you can find it. Its listed on the bottle and the oil is green. You can read about it on bitog.
Old 08-18-15, 12:43 PM
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RamAirRckt
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At least we have a pretty reasonable assumption that Amsoil isn't cherry picking the data to show they are #1 in everything.

Statistically most are reasonable close, usually save TBN. Diesel oils (I used to run Mobil 1 5W40 diesel or Rotella T 5W40 when I couldn't get Amsoil). I never could actually FIND Delvac1 oils. But did want to use them. My Buick uses some oil (220k miles) so I keep Rotella T in it, but I will probably get it back on 0W30 or 0W40 here real soon.

Originally Posted by 1QWKGS4
The Pennzoil Ultra and Redline was a bit better on the Evaporation than Amsoil (NOACK Test)



And The Castro was a lil better on the Oxidation that the Amsoil (TEOST Test)



But the Amsoil won on all the most important categories.. Cold Crank, TBN and Four Ball wear Test.
Old 08-18-15, 12:46 PM
  #48  
RamAirRckt
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Maybe I will go with it on my next oil change just to see how it compared to Castrol Edge w/Titanium (gold bottle) when I ran it for 11k. I'll look for a virgin uoa and see how it compares. Being my engine will take a 12 TBN oil to 2 in 25k, I can probably calculate what it would do for 10, 15 or even 20k if it can do it. Would be an interesting test

Anyone know if it is GF-4 or GF-5 blessed?

Originally Posted by SaiyanGS3
GC is a great oil if you can find it. Its listed on the bottle and the oil is green. You can read about it on bitog.

Last edited by RamAirRckt; 08-18-15 at 01:03 PM.
Old 08-18-15, 03:17 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by RamAirRckt
Maybe I will go with it on my next oil change just to see how it compared to Castrol Edge w/Titanium (gold bottle) when I ran it for 11k. I'll look for a virgin uoa and see how it compares. Being my engine will take a 12 TBN oil to 2 in 25k, I can probably calculate what it would do for 10, 15 or even 20k if it can do it. Would be an interesting test

Anyone know if it is GF-4 or GF-5 blessed?
German Castrol 0W 30 is a GF-4 synthetic. I think it is the only store available Castrol synthetic that is Group 4, the rest are GF-3 from my understanding.
Old 08-18-15, 04:47 PM
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What does Lexus require on the 98 GS4? GF-4 or GF-5? Or 3?



Originally Posted by UDel
German Castrol 0W 30 is a GF-4 synthetic. I think it is the only store available Castrol synthetic that is Group 4, the rest are GF-3 from my understanding.
Old 08-18-15, 09:47 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by RamAirRckt
What does Lexus require on the 98 GS4? GF-4 or GF-5? Or 3?
I am not sure if they even specify if it needs to be a GF-4, GF-3, or GF-5 for a GS? I am pretty sure Lexus dealerships use Mobil 1 5W 30 for the GS when you ask for a synthetic which is now a Group 3 Synthetic so it is probably okay to use a Group 3 or maybe even a non synthetic for the GS unless you live in a really really cold environment.
Old 08-19-15, 12:29 PM
  #52  
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We see pretty cold here in winter, not uncommon to see a spell of -10F to -15F, occaisionally -20F, that is some brutal cold!

Was wondering if Mobil 1 abandoned real synthetics 100% of just on the low end oils like the Mobil (not Mobil 1) synthetic or the lesser Mobil 1 oils and maybe EP being the one that might still be?

Not like they would advertise it as a PAO or Group 3 or Group 2....



Originally Posted by UDel
I am not sure if they even specify if it needs to be a GF-4, GF-3, or GF-5 for a GS? I am pretty sure Lexus dealerships use Mobil 1 5W 30 for the GS when you ask for a synthetic which is now a Group 3 Synthetic so it is probably okay to use a Group 3 or maybe even a non synthetic for the GS unless you live in a really really cold environment.
Old 08-19-15, 06:07 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by RamAirRckt
We see pretty cold here in winter, not uncommon to see a spell of -10F to -15F, occaisionally -20F, that is some brutal cold!

Was wondering if Mobil 1 abandoned real synthetics 100% of just on the low end oils like the Mobil (not Mobil 1) synthetic or the lesser Mobil 1 oils and maybe EP being the one that might still be?

Not like they would advertise it as a PAO or Group 3 or Group 2....
From what I read most Mobil 1 synthetics are now Group 3's after the lawsuit, the only retail group 4 I heard of was the European Formula Mobil 1 OW 40 but I have read some say that is not even Group 4 now.
Old 08-20-15, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by UDel
From what I read most Mobil 1 synthetics are now Group 3's after the lawsuit, the only retail group 4 I heard of was the European Formula Mobil 1 OW 40 but I have read some say that is not even Group 4 now.
All over the counter syn is G-III. the 0w-40 was still G-IIII if I remember correctly. GC is G-IIII
Old 08-20-15, 02:53 PM
  #55  
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And if anyone comes across this article, it is totally bogus data, the "one armed bandit" machine is a joke, meaningless. It can be used to fail or pass any oil. It is a very very poor machine to "test oil"

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

The test is soooo uncontrolled you might as well tasted the oil and see which protected metal better...
Old 01-21-16, 03:34 PM
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I started a thread a few years ago about extended oil changes, I took a lot of criticism and even some cheap jabs from members telling me how stupid it was, and how Im crazy to "abuse" my poor little engine like that.

Thank you RamAirRkt for this thread WITH test results.

Long story short: Ive owned my 98 GS since 2001, it had about 30K miles on it when I got it. at 50,000 miles I started doing really long oil change intervals, using 100% synthetic Valvoline or Mobile-One, and changing the filter, top-off every ~5K miles.

The Engine now has 275K miles and still runs great (except for the bad coil I now have causing a misfire) - the seats, radio, AC controller, Master Cylinder, drive shaft damper, shocks, radiator, AC evap coils all have either been replaced or repaired...but not the Engine.

Wanna know how long I went btwn Changes? 50,000 miles. I was going to get it analyzed, but at 275K miles and still able to burn off the rear tires, I think my less than scientific empirical results show that the 3 to 5K oil intervals are bunk.

I havnt changed the oil in about 3-1/2 years...but ive only driven it about 12K miles...last trip was 1200 miles to ABQ and back the PHX in October, still get 22-24 mpg, and does well over 100mph without a problem.

So...Im a fan :-) good info on the test results...someday I might actually do an analysis.

In the mean time, the official oil change interval for my 2013 GS 350 is 15K miles. Its under drivetrain warranty, so I will honor that, it just turned 50K miles and is now on its 4th batch of oil which I will change at 60K miles. After that, I will do 20 to 30K btwn changes. Its oil system and filter are very diff from the 2nd Gen straight 6's, but its a higher reving V6, so im not as familiar with its nuances as the straight 6.
Old 03-31-16, 08:03 PM
  #57  
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One word of advice use dealer oil filter. I have seen aftermarket filter cause blockage on a venza vvti filter.
Old 08-26-17, 08:29 PM
  #58  
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Status update. I'm at 286k miles now. Up to 15k on Amsoil HDD 5W30 diesel oil. Still using the Amsoil EaO26 filter, a very large one and I can fill 7 quarts. At 15k I am ready to add some, about a half a quart down right now. The Amsoil 0W20 (ASM) Signature Series oil I didn't have to add oil until around 22-23k miles.

I have the Amsoil bypass filter to install, but haven't figured out how to mount it, just not much room underhood. AND I have a 2UZ oil cooler that I want to get on as well. With the bypass, I have a sandwich adapter to use to pick off oil for the bypass filter, and I can install an oil temp and oil pressure gauge so I can track it.

Anyone have ideas?
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