3rd oil change (long drains) with oil analysis GS400
08-09-15, 04:25 AM
#17
Read this on engine oil, and you will understand why I run 0W20....
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
From what I gather from this article is its safe to run 0W-20 under normal conditions and use a 0W-30, or 5W-30 for Track use. Flow rate is important as well as oil thickness (Less thickness is better).
I'll probably will run a weight lower under normal condition plus the added benefit of less oil thickness at Startup is very important. I'm going to change to 0W-20 in a Synthetic... May also see increases in gas mileage is a win-win situation..
Thanks RAM.
08-09-15, 09:19 AM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Fixed it, I was going to look up the shorter, but still fat version of the EAO15.
Dodge used the short fat 3/4-16 filter (Wix 51068, Amsoil EAO42)
Ford and Toyota used the fat and long filter (FL1A, PH8A, 51515)
Lexus/Toyota 1UZ-FE/3UZ-FE/2JZ used the short and skinny filter (Wix 51348)
Amsoil EAO26 is intended for the Dual Remote bypass filter, but also interchanges on the Lexus GS4 just fine, I expect the GS3 to fit well too.
All interchangeable if size fits.
Dodge used the short fat 3/4-16 filter (Wix 51068, Amsoil EAO42)
Ford and Toyota used the fat and long filter (FL1A, PH8A, 51515)
Lexus/Toyota 1UZ-FE/3UZ-FE/2JZ used the short and skinny filter (Wix 51348)
Amsoil EAO26 is intended for the Dual Remote bypass filter, but also interchanges on the Lexus GS4 just fine, I expect the GS3 to fit well too.
All interchangeable if size fits.
WTF!!!! I guess I have something new to learn about.
Hey RamAir, did you mean to type EAO15 twice?
What kind of damage can paper particles cause?
I bet if someone started making oil filters that were easy to disassemble after removing to demonstrate how good their filters were, they would pickup a lot of customers and **** off and expose the cheapos.
Hey RamAir, did you mean to type EAO15 twice?
What kind of damage can paper particles cause?
I bet if someone started making oil filters that were easy to disassemble after removing to demonstrate how good their filters were, they would pickup a lot of customers and **** off and expose the cheapos.
08-09-15, 09:21 AM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
If I was going to see track time, I wouldn't go with a xW30 (not much better at all), I would go with something like a 5W40/10W40 or 5W50, depending on the track oil temps, maybe even a xW60.
I am looking to install a 2UZ-FE oil cooler on mine just to help ensure oil temps are always in check and to warm cold oil up faster, but if I do the bypass I will have to run a short filter so I can run the bypass and the coolant oil cooler.
Basically what Dr. Haas is saying it knowing your oil temps is very important to determine oil to use for the track.
I am planning on adding oil temp gauge when I get the bypass oil filter on my car.
The important thing on adding an oil cooler it lets you run the thinner oil for worse conditions, where without (like our cars don't have) you can't get away with it. Corvettes and Cadillacs from GM always had oil coolers till at least the mid 90's, but on the Vette, GM went to synthetic so they could ditch the oil cooler (source of leaks....)
But remember too, oil temps in the sump aren't representative of what is in the the actually stress area (bearings, rings, etc), they might spike to 400+F, which is beyond the fire point of dino oil, which causes it to coke up (turn black and sooty), so this is my #1 reason to run Amsoil Synthetic. When you nail it on a hot day out in Phoenix after driving for a while and have the AC on so it is really hot, your oil is already at 220-250F or so, and you easily see 400+ in the rings, dino oil is at its limit. Most dino oil is crap by 250F. Amsoil is solid still at 400F. Amsoil ASM (0W20) is good to 442F and doesn't coke till 478F. Mobil 1 doesn't compete there.
I am looking to install a 2UZ-FE oil cooler on mine just to help ensure oil temps are always in check and to warm cold oil up faster, but if I do the bypass I will have to run a short filter so I can run the bypass and the coolant oil cooler.
Basically what Dr. Haas is saying it knowing your oil temps is very important to determine oil to use for the track.
I am planning on adding oil temp gauge when I get the bypass oil filter on my car.
The important thing on adding an oil cooler it lets you run the thinner oil for worse conditions, where without (like our cars don't have) you can't get away with it. Corvettes and Cadillacs from GM always had oil coolers till at least the mid 90's, but on the Vette, GM went to synthetic so they could ditch the oil cooler (source of leaks....)
But remember too, oil temps in the sump aren't representative of what is in the the actually stress area (bearings, rings, etc), they might spike to 400+F, which is beyond the fire point of dino oil, which causes it to coke up (turn black and sooty), so this is my #1 reason to run Amsoil Synthetic. When you nail it on a hot day out in Phoenix after driving for a while and have the AC on so it is really hot, your oil is already at 220-250F or so, and you easily see 400+ in the rings, dino oil is at its limit. Most dino oil is crap by 250F. Amsoil is solid still at 400F. Amsoil ASM (0W20) is good to 442F and doesn't coke till 478F. Mobil 1 doesn't compete there.
Last edited by RamAirRckt; 08-09-15 at 09:38 AM.
08-09-15, 11:05 AM
#20
Lexus Fanatic
Worst filter on the planet. They use a terrible element with CARDBOARD endcaps.
Watch this and see if you really want to use a FRAM filter anymore. Fram should be ashamed of themselves for what they make. But it is cheap and VERY profitable.
I would use on a For a Lexus GS300/400/430/IS300:
#1 Amsoil (which is a Dondaldson Synteq filter), use a EAO15 or a EAO42 (not as long as a 26)
#2 Wix use a 51515. It is bigger, bigger is better on a filter.
#3 Mobil 1 Filter has shown some very good filtration #'s on UOA (Used Oil Analysis)
#4 K&N Filter is pretty well made as well, similar to the Mobil 1.
I think the Purolator Synthetic filter is ok, the PureOne filters ok, but has an element problem that many people have noted the element tearing and then allowing unfiltered oil to pass. Avoid that one. It does a good job till it tears, then all that crap it caught goes through the engine all at once.
Most filters are simple paper filters that are cheaply made. The Toyota/Lexus branded filter is not bad, but still people who have taken it apart aren't impressed by it. It isn't as good as the Wix. The Amsoil/Donaldson Synteq filters are a depth filter, not a paper element, but a synthetic filber element that has a thick mesh that can trap a LOT of dirt, it doesn't simply fill up the surface and start to degrade oil flow, but it has a lot of room inside that catches the various sizes of dirt/soot/coke, so the flow over a long period of time is kept higher.
Paper filters are similar to the coffee filter. Notice that you can only filter just so much through it before it slows down and doesn't pass much anymore. Eventually it tears. Amsoil filters aren't like that. Most all filters are.
Watch this and see if you really want to use a FRAM filter anymore. Fram should be ashamed of themselves for what they make. But it is cheap and VERY profitable.
I would use on a For a Lexus GS300/400/430/IS300:
#1 Amsoil (which is a Dondaldson Synteq filter), use a EAO15 or a EAO42 (not as long as a 26)
#2 Wix use a 51515. It is bigger, bigger is better on a filter.
#3 Mobil 1 Filter has shown some very good filtration #'s on UOA (Used Oil Analysis)
#4 K&N Filter is pretty well made as well, similar to the Mobil 1.
I think the Purolator Synthetic filter is ok, the PureOne filters ok, but has an element problem that many people have noted the element tearing and then allowing unfiltered oil to pass. Avoid that one. It does a good job till it tears, then all that crap it caught goes through the engine all at once.
Most filters are simple paper filters that are cheaply made. The Toyota/Lexus branded filter is not bad, but still people who have taken it apart aren't impressed by it. It isn't as good as the Wix. The Amsoil/Donaldson Synteq filters are a depth filter, not a paper element, but a synthetic filber element that has a thick mesh that can trap a LOT of dirt, it doesn't simply fill up the surface and start to degrade oil flow, but it has a lot of room inside that catches the various sizes of dirt/soot/coke, so the flow over a long period of time is kept higher.
Paper filters are similar to the coffee filter. Notice that you can only filter just so much through it before it slows down and doesn't pass much anymore. Eventually it tears. Amsoil filters aren't like that. Most all filters are.
I was going to order a FRAM air filter, are they as bad as their oil filters? I was going to also get a Premium Guard cabin air filter, anyone heard of those?
08-09-15, 11:08 AM
#21
100% agree with you. I always buy my synthetic oil in Wal-Mart. Always is better prices there. But also, I buy the OEM Toyota filter on the dealer because I got better prices on the OEM Filter and my combination is Full Synthetic Castrol 5-30 and OEM Oil Filter from Supra Twin Turbo Engine. Part # 90915-YZZG2 Before part # was 90915-YZZG1
Last edited by Mcon; 08-09-15 at 11:12 AM.
08-09-15, 12:04 PM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
IIRC the Bosch were fairly well made, nice element. Here is a vid of it.
08-09-15, 12:08 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
You can get good prices on OEM filters on Amazon a lot too.
Here is the Toyota filter opened up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...tition.123608/
90915-YZZD3
Here is the Toyota filter opened up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...tition.123608/
90915-YZZD3
100% agree with you. I always buy my synthetic oil in Wal-Mart. Always is better prices there. But also, I buy the OEM Toyota filter on the dealer because I got better prices on the OEM Filter and my combination is Full Synthetic Castrol 5-30 and OEM Oil Filter from Supra Twin Turbo Engine. Part # 90915-YZZG2 Before part # was 90915-YZZG1
08-09-15, 02:14 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
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RamAirRckt, could you look at this vid and tell me what you think? It shows a Wix whose internals got crushed somehow. He said it was only 2 weeks old (installed), but his part 2 video shows some really black oil when he disassembles it. I can't tell if the Wix really was poor quality or if something strange is going on with his engine.
08-09-15, 06:46 PM
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
I haven't seen one like that before. Wow, that is bad. They have to be machine made, and some sort of defect. Of the millions of filters made a year it is bound to happen, but definitely failed quality control to ensure it would never get out the door to a customer.
Here is some others taken apart. Baldwin, Fram, Microguard, Supertech.
Here is some others taken apart. Baldwin, Fram, Microguard, Supertech.
RamAirRckt, could you look at this vid and tell me what you think? It shows a Wix whose internals got crushed somehow. He said it was only 2 weeks old (installed), but his part 2 video shows some really black oil when he disassembles it. I can't tell if the Wix really was poor quality or if something strange is going on with his engine.
08-10-15, 10:28 AM
#28
Pole Position
so what oil is considered an upgrade if I am currently using mobile 1 5w30 synthetic high mileage? Which amsoil? I am in NYC so not sure if using 0w30 is a good idea for me....
08-10-15, 11:59 AM
#29
You can get good prices on OEM filters on Amazon a lot too.
Here is the Toyota filter opened up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...tition.123608/
90915-YZZD3
Here is the Toyota filter opened up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...tition.123608/
90915-YZZD3
I do not want to offend you in any way. But in my case, I have an account with the dealer toyota for over 19 years and the same employee from parts dept. in that dealer know me all that years. The OEM oil filter in the dealer cost me only $5.35 with tax. So, I always prefer the original oil filter from the dealer.
08-10-15, 11:00 PM
#30
When comparing oils, Mobil 1 to Pennzoil PP or Mobil 1 EP, there isn't much difference. On the same controlled tests Amsoil did for wear they all were worse than Amsoil. Mobil 1 EP had a wear scan 5x worse than Amsoil. And that is Mobil's best oil.....
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf
Actually from The Amsoil test .pdf you provided. The Penn Ultra is a bit better than Mobil 1 EP. I studied the report and Amsoil though the Superior oil but it didn't Win all the categories. The Amsoil only won 3 of 5 test but it did win the 2 most important test were the Cold crank and TBN (Which is the most important) But Castrol Edge and Redline wasn't that far behind.
In the NOACK (Evaporation)
1st. Redline
2nd. Pennzoil
3rd. Amsoil
4th. Mobil 1
5th. Royal Purple
In the TEOST (Oxidation)
1st. Castrol
2nd. Amsoil
3rd. Valvoline SynP
4th. Luca (tie)
4th. Pennzoil (tie)
Cold Crank
1st. Amsoil
2nd. Quaker
3rd. Pennzoil
4th. Mobil 1
5th. Lucas
TBN
1st. Amsoil @ 13
2nd Castrol @ 11
3rd Redline @ 10.25
4th Pennzoil @ 9.5 (tie)
5th Mobil 1 @ 9.5 (tie)
Four Ball Wear test.
1st. Amsoil - Under .40 (which is the standard)
2nd Lucas - Under .40
3rd Valvoline SynP - Under .40
4th Royal Pur - Under .40
5th Pennzoil - @ 0.425
Highest two were (Four Ball Wear)
Castro @ 1.55
Mobil 1 @ 1.625
Drawing conclusions from the Test. Amsoil won all the most important categories but I say that Pennzoil was the only of the other oils besides Amsoil to make the Top 5 every test consistently. Though Penn was mostly middle of the line of the top 5, it scored higher than the other regular synthetics.
I was considering going with Amsoil but I saw that the Amsoil under normal conditions is rated for 25K miles but rated for Severe at 15K miles. Most people drive under severe schedule. Which lead me the conclusion that I'll probably run Penn Ultra and change my oil every 10K. For me, I drive mostly in the Severe schedule. Even if I use Amsoil, I probably be changing it ever 12K so there isn't any real advantage to using Amsoil over Pennzoil except maybe at extreme temps and better cold crank starts. If I was driving alot of highway like you Ram, then I would definitely go for the Amsoil to get that 25K normal schedule..
The Key here, is to figure what you need.. I would not go 25K in stop and go traffic or short distance in Amsoil.. Even Amsoil say up to 15K under Severe schedule.
Thanks again Ram. I have learn alot from this thread.