GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

DIY VVT Oil Control Valve repair - fixes P1349

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Old 03-16-15, 06:34 PM
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TableSyrup
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Default DIY VVT Oil Control Valve repair - fixes P1349

I apologize that I do not have photos... I was trying to focus 100% on being super clean, and was in a hurry losing daylight.
(If someone wants to send me one for repair, and pay the shipping both ways, I'd be happy to repair it for you, and I'll take photos this time.)

This whole repair, including removal, and reinstallation, took me 30 minutes.

The Oil Control Valve (OCV) stem with the slots in it, is crimped into the solenoid body.
Inside the stem is a piston of sorts that is spring loaded (Moved as needed by the solenoid)
The issue I had, was my piston was sticking.
My piston had a varnish built up on it, as I'm sure the inner bore of the stem did....
This made the piston drag and stick, thereby not returning to it's resting/closed position.

1)
(Mark the position of the stem and solenoid casing... mash mark or scratch mark this, as I'm not sure it's critical, but betting it is somewhat)
I used a flathead screw driver and twisted to press the head between the ridge in the OCV stem and the crimped edge of the solenoid body. Then took a small pliers (Narrow, used for electronics work, but a needlenose would also work) and grabbed and opened more.

This allows the stem to be removed. It will now just fall/pull out.

2)
There is a seal that the stem squished against the solenoid body to keep oil from escaping (was maybe an o-ring? was not really circular, and smooshed sorta flat, but you get the idea) - set this aside for cleaning.

3)
The 'piston' that is spring loaded at the outtermost end of the stem, will now slide out.
This may require a pliers if yours is gunked up good.

4) There is a spring and small washer in the tip of the stem... remove these and set them aside for cleaning.

5)
Thoroughly clean the stem inside, out, and in all the channels... I used acetone in a cup to soak it in.
This and the piston are going to be the cause of the issue for most.

NOTE: There is an oring on the outside of the stem that seals it against the cap body when installed....
if you are going to use a chemical that would be harmful to this, remove it (i did) and reinstall it when done

6)
Clean the 'piston'. This, and the innermost bore of the stem are where the issue is going to be for most.

7) BE SURE EVERYTHING IS SUPER DUPER CLEAN, Test fit the washer/spring/piston and verify it all moves freely.... Lightly oil all moving parts - ReAssemble...

RESEATING THE STEM TO THE SOLENOID:
I used a small body hammer to work the edge of the solenoid flare around the stem seat. Use what you have here... most anything will work.

Tadda. Worked like a charm. Code is gone, and power is fully restored.
I put 30 miles on and it's a champ. solid. no leaks

Last edited by TableSyrup; 03-16-15 at 06:38 PM.
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