Lower motor mounts hep!
02-16-15, 05:26 AM
#16
Advanced
I think the mistake you are making is you can only lift ONE side at a time - as someone else said the 300 are easier than the 400, I have done lots over the years and recently did 2 sets of 400 mounts.
Do use a piece of at least 2x8 under the pan to avoid denting it with the jack ( I know you said 2x4)
Do use a piece of at least 2x8 under the pan to avoid denting it with the jack ( I know you said 2x4)
Last edited by wbmx1981; 02-16-15 at 05:31 AM.
02-17-15, 06:39 AM
#17
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I attempted to replace my motor mounts on my 99 GS300. I had to stop because I could not get the mounts out. I was able to remove all the nuts, lift the engine with the 2x4, I even lifted the transmission a bit just so the engine and tranny were both level (I read this in a previous post). I could wiggle and twist the mounts, they were completely loose and ready to come out, but I needed an extra inch and half or so and I couldn't get up because the engine was already touching the firewall. I don't want to take my car in although I was quoted $295 for all three mounts without parts. I've done all my work in my garage (timing belt, shift solenoid, LBJ's, blah blah) so I'm handy and somewhat mechanically inclined. What am I doing wrong?
did u find a way?
07-08-15, 05:48 AM
#19
Pole Position
Thread Starter
i also read the same thing that u must lift once side at a time a use a pry bar to tilt it to one side to get that extra inch and 1/2
anyone has a d.i.y on this??
anyone has a d.i.y on this??
07-08-15, 12:39 PM
#20
Advanced
Mounts Done
I was told over and over the steering rack did not have to be moved, but I did to get more room.
1. Loosen the top nuts of the motor mounts, but do not remove (yet). Use a short handle ratchet to maneuver better. Remove the oil filter for more access on the driver side.
2. Jack up the vehicle
3. Safely and securely place vehicle on jack stands
4. Remove the splash guard from under the engine
5. Remove the black cover tabs from the cross member to gain access to the lower two mount nuts.
6. Remove the lower mount nuts from each side of the cross member.
7. Get a 2x4 wood block and place it on the jack head and lift the engine from the oil pan.
8. Lift the engine until the engine touches the firewall.
9. You will still need more clearance to remove the engine mounts so don’t stress.
10. Listen and read this very carefully - remove the top engine mount nut.
11. Remove the member brace
12. Remove the steering rack from the cross member, I used an extra jack stand to hold the rack, so it would not dangle.
13. Loosen the 4 nuts holding the cross member to the frame
14. Now get a breaker bar or a long pipe and wedge it between the cross member and the oil pan, the cross member will feel springy and allow the clearance you need to get the mounts out. The cross member will move because the lower control arm will allow it to flex downward.
15. Install in reverse order.
PM me if you need further help
**NOTE** do the transmission mount too for best results.
**These are not my pictures. I found these on the my.is site**
Last edited by wbmx1981; 07-08-15 at 12:57 PM.
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QLex300 (03-27-23)
07-12-15, 12:22 AM
#21
Just did my mounts today. I tried to re-create the wheel at first and do what I thought would be a quicker way. Ultimately I ended up just droping the front cross member. One thing I would definitely recommend is that when you are installing the new mounts place the bottom in first. I tried to get the top into the mount bracket first but it was much easier putting the botton in first.
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QLex300 (03-27-23)
07-12-15, 05:35 AM
#22
Advanced
Just did my mounts today. I tried to re-create the wheel at first and do what I thought would be a quicker way. Ultimately I ended up just droping the front cross member. One thing I would definitely recommend is that when you are installing the new mounts place the bottom in first. I tried to get the top into the mount bracket first but it was much easier putting the botton in first.
Can you feel the difference?
Did you do the transmission mounts?
07-12-15, 12:39 PM
#23
I did do the trans mount also. The front mounts completely came apart during removal and the trans mount has one side torn. I'm waiting a few days to see if all the vibrations are gone but so far so good. I never noticed how much the engine rocked during start up with the broken mounts. Now cranking is smooth. BTW the hose that comes out of the power steering resevior was so brittle it split when I lifted the motor. I have 240k and it was so brittle I'm glad it broke now. I'm gonna go through and change all hoses now.
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QLex300 (03-27-23)
07-13-15, 06:23 AM
#24
Advanced
I did do the trans mount also. The front mounts completely came apart during removal and the trans mount has one side torn. I'm waiting a few days to see if all the vibrations are gone but so far so good. I never noticed how much the engine rocked during start up with the broken mounts. Now cranking is smooth. BTW the hose that comes out of the power steering resevior was so brittle it split when I lifted the motor. I have 240k and it was so brittle I'm glad it broke now. I'm gonna go through and change all hoses now.
Same here, all of my three mounts were way done. My transmission mount was broken in two pieces and my engine mounts both dried out and cracking. After changing mine out, I can feel the difference. I have little to no vibrations when idle. I saved a bundle doing it myself too.
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QLex300 (03-27-23)
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