Wheel fitment Guru's, help a brother out
#1
Wheel fitment Guru's, help a brother out
Ok, I know what "fits" my car with my current set up, but Im looking to change things up a bit.
Here is my current set up with my HRE's
Front:
20x9 +36 2" outer lip 255/30 contisports
20x11 +47 3.5" outer lip 305/25 contisports
Rear lips are cut, front fenders are untouched, car sits slightly above(maybe 3 or 4mm) tire with zero rubbing
I am thinking about changing the outer lips on both front and rear by 1/2". So the fronts would be 9.5" wheels with a 2.5" lip, rears would be 11.5" with 4" lips.
If my measurements are correct, it looks like 10mm would bring my current set up just about even with the outer edge of the wheel well/ fenders. So essentially if I come out a total of 1/2" I would be sticking out about 3mm. Keep in mind, this is the outside of the car, not sure how much clearance there is in the wells. the rears are cut to the spot welds. Its dark and i didnt measure it.
I know this aint **** compared to others aggressive set ups, but for my conservative *** its ground breaking! lol
So here's my questions.....
1) would my current tires stretch enough with the extra .5" to keep running them
2) if not, what size tires would I need for a "MILD" stretch and still work without rubbing issues
3) what, if anything, would I need to do to the front fenders to make it work
4) how much camber would I have to run
Keep in mind, I have a 766 rwhp car that absolutely needs traction, so I cant run a stretched out 265 rear tire
I appreciate any feedback, and thanks in advance
Here is my current set up with my HRE's
Front:
20x9 +36 2" outer lip 255/30 contisports
20x11 +47 3.5" outer lip 305/25 contisports
Rear lips are cut, front fenders are untouched, car sits slightly above(maybe 3 or 4mm) tire with zero rubbing
I am thinking about changing the outer lips on both front and rear by 1/2". So the fronts would be 9.5" wheels with a 2.5" lip, rears would be 11.5" with 4" lips.
If my measurements are correct, it looks like 10mm would bring my current set up just about even with the outer edge of the wheel well/ fenders. So essentially if I come out a total of 1/2" I would be sticking out about 3mm. Keep in mind, this is the outside of the car, not sure how much clearance there is in the wells. the rears are cut to the spot welds. Its dark and i didnt measure it.
I know this aint **** compared to others aggressive set ups, but for my conservative *** its ground breaking! lol
So here's my questions.....
1) would my current tires stretch enough with the extra .5" to keep running them
2) if not, what size tires would I need for a "MILD" stretch and still work without rubbing issues
3) what, if anything, would I need to do to the front fenders to make it work
4) how much camber would I have to run
Keep in mind, I have a 766 rwhp car that absolutely needs traction, so I cant run a stretched out 265 rear tire
I appreciate any feedback, and thanks in advance
#2
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
I already discussed your options with you before in another thread. You're going to make your traction problems worse if you introduce camber. I had a 305/25 on an 10.5 before. If you run a 305/25 on an 11.5, it won't really be stretched at all (I have a 255/35 on an 11 currently). If you're thinking about rebuilding the wheels again, you might as well step down to a 19x11 with a 305/30 or 315/30 in a good compound. If you're only cut to the spot wells, I don't think you're going to get the 4 inch lip on those particular wheels without camber and you're close to maxed out on the inside.
Last edited by tiger4life; 04-14-14 at 06:49 PM.
#3
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
If you shave the fenders all the way and don't seam weld, they may split (like mines did). I plan to eventually run a 19x13.5 but my car won't ever make 700+ horsepower so I can live with an unnecessarily heavy wheel. There is no reason to put a bigger lip on that wheel with the same tire except for aesthetics. You might as well run a 19x11 with a better offset.
#4
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
I actually just stumbled onto this while looking at other pics. The black bmw m5 has a 305/25 on an 11.5. I would not feel comfortable running that on a 700+ hp car.........
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...hp?t=57&page=2
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...hp?t=57&page=2
#5
thanks tiger......and I remember your input now on the thread I had about stickier tires. And you are right, aesthetics is the only reason I want to do it, but not at the expense of running a lot of camber, pulling, etc, etc.
even if I dont do the back, I think the fronts definitely will get done. the fronts have a more sunken appearance than the rear for sure. I was going to throw a spacer on the front just for aesthetics, but I figured if I was going to do that I might as well add the half inch and gain lip while avoiding the spacer. The rears dont bother me as much.
even if I dont do the back, I think the fronts definitely will get done. the fronts have a more sunken appearance than the rear for sure. I was going to throw a spacer on the front just for aesthetics, but I figured if I was going to do that I might as well add the half inch and gain lip while avoiding the spacer. The rears dont bother me as much.
#6
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
You wouldn't have to run a bunch of camber in the rear, maybe around 2 degrees or less. The thing is that that's still not the optimal setup for you power level.
The fronts would be tricky. I'm running a 19x9.5 +30 on a 235/35 with about 2.2 degrees of camber and no fender mods except I heat molded the fender liner and I drive really careful. You put a .5 inch bigger lip and you're at my offset, but you would have a non-stretched slightly taller tire. You would have to do fender mods in the front and personally, I'm not pulling my fender liners with a motor that shiny.
You're only going to get so much lip in the front with bbk and stock fenders. I have a 3.5" lip in the front because my faces are low disc. Now I want bbk and have been trying to find high disc faces to redo my wheels.
The fronts would be tricky. I'm running a 19x9.5 +30 on a 235/35 with about 2.2 degrees of camber and no fender mods except I heat molded the fender liner and I drive really careful. You put a .5 inch bigger lip and you're at my offset, but you would have a non-stretched slightly taller tire. You would have to do fender mods in the front and personally, I'm not pulling my fender liners with a motor that shiny.
You're only going to get so much lip in the front with bbk and stock fenders. I have a 3.5" lip in the front because my faces are low disc. Now I want bbk and have been trying to find high disc faces to redo my wheels.
#7
I dont know bro, I just got an alignment last week. Right now the car is sitting at -2.3 in the rear, and -2.0 up front. He said the rear was maxed out with adjustment on the stock set up. The fronts he got to -1.0, but it was making the toe out of whack on one side, so he set it at -2 to keep the toe in check right and left
At -2.3 right no, there is no way another .5" is going to work int he back, at least it doesnt look like it to me
At -2.3 right no, there is no way another .5" is going to work int he back, at least it doesnt look like it to me
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#8
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
My rears are an inch further out than your current ones. I'm running about 2.7 degrees on stock adjustment and my fenders are shaved just past the welds. My wheel flange hits the bottom of my fender. So maybe you would have to run closer to my setup to clear the wheel.
You would have to shave the fender flat to get this done and possibly have it split if you don't seam weld and repaint the quarter. I'm tired of telling you, but your really should just buy new/used wheels with the proper offset.
My toe is set to zero so tire wear isn't too bad, but you have to worry about cupping at higher camber levels. Pot holes will be more of a concern and you already have paper thin tires.
You would have to shave the fender flat to get this done and possibly have it split if you don't seam weld and repaint the quarter. I'm tired of telling you, but your really should just buy new/used wheels with the proper offset.
My toe is set to zero so tire wear isn't too bad, but you have to worry about cupping at higher camber levels. Pot holes will be more of a concern and you already have paper thin tires.
Last edited by tiger4life; 04-14-14 at 07:51 PM.
#9
I'm tired of telling you, but your really should just buy new/used wheels with the proper offset.
Maybe I need to take a step back and re evaluate what Im thinking. If I had to do it all over again, i would go 19's so I had more tire options at my HP level and more side wall to put it to use.
#10
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
Lol, I hear ya man......you can imagine the money I have in these damn things, im trying my hardest to make them what I want them to be.
Maybe I need to take a step back and re evaluate what Im thinking. If I had to do it all over again, i would go 19's so I had more tire options at my HP level and more side wall to put it to use.
Maybe I need to take a step back and re evaluate what Im thinking. If I had to do it all over again, i would go 19's so I had more tire options at my HP level and more side wall to put it to use.
You're going to bend a rim trying to run 2.7-3.0 degrees of camber on a stretched 305/25.
Last edited by tiger4life; 04-14-14 at 08:22 PM.
#13
exclusive, thats exactly what I was saying to my buddy today......spend the minimal amount on a spacer before I drop the cash on new lips and what goes into that whole thing. It would be worth the investment to get a real idea of what im looking at
thanks
thanks
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