GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Drop in sub replacement

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Old 01-30-13, 09:45 AM
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subzero32
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Default Drop in sub replacement

So i read that the JL audio 10ib4 free air sub will drop right in with out the need for a MDF made mounting bracket. Is there any other 10'' sub that will drop right in the factory hole?
Old 01-30-13, 10:08 AM
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GS1day
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I put one in, and it doesn't just drop in. None do, all will require some modifications, since the stock sub has such a strange shape for its mount and the holes don't line up. Here is what I suggest, and it is what I did. Remove your stock sub, and use the template for your new sub to trace a line on the mount of your old sub. Use a dremel to cut out the hole in your old sub, basically leaving you just the old mount with a big hole in the middle. drop your new sub into the mount and mark some locations to drill some mounting holes, then screw the new sub to the old subs mount, and then drop the whole thing into your car and the old mount holes will secure your sub. when I did this, the cutting of the old sub was not that hard. The hole you want basically lines up with the edge of the old sub, and so its easy to follow your line around as you dremel out the old sub. Good luck! Again, nothing will just 'drop in'. No holes will line up, so even if a sub fits in the hole, you will have no way to secure it without drilling your rear deck and it wont sit flush. The way I did it seems to me to be the best way.
Old 01-30-13, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by GS1day
I put one in, and it doesn't just drop in. None do, all will require some modifications, since the stock sub has such a strange shape for its mount and the holes don't line up. Here is what I suggest, and it is what I did. Remove your stock sub, and use the template for your new sub to trace a line on the mount of your old sub. Use a dremel to cut out the hole in your old sub, basically leaving you just the old mount with a big hole in the middle. drop your new sub into the mount and mark some locations to drill some mounting holes, then screw the new sub to the old subs mount, and then drop the whole thing into your car and the old mount holes will secure your sub. when I did this, the cutting of the old sub was not that hard. The hole you want basically lines up with the edge of the old sub, and so its easy to follow your line around as you dremel out the old sub. Good luck! Again, nothing will just 'drop in'. No holes will line up, so even if a sub fits in the hole, you will have no way to secure it without drilling your rear deck and it wont sit flush. The way I did it seems to me to be the best way.
Thanks for the advice! What sub are you running and how does it sound? Did you use the factory amp to power it?
Old 01-30-13, 10:53 AM
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GS1day
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i used the JL audio Marine sub, I think it was the IB5. they make two, and one is NOT infinite baffle - make sure you get the infinite baffle. the stock amp has no power - its not worth trying to use for anything. I gutted my entire sytem and redid it all - lots of work, but worth it. I used a JL audio JX500/1 D for the sub, and a jx360/4 for the speakers which I also replaced. I put in the AVH-p8400bh from Pioneer and I am very happy with it all. Dynomat the entire deck, and the deck cover as well. This is a must I think. Pull down the rear half of the headliner and dynomat that too. The sub will rattle the headliner otherwise. You can use the sub wire as a high-level input on the amp and put it all in the trunk if you just want to do the sub, but you will need to run a power wire through the firewall - up the passenger side was easiest for me. Right behind your battery under the hood is a grommet you can run the wire through, and it pops out behind the glove box. Sub sounds great, but I am considering a replacement grill of some sort for the sub - it seems to move too much air and rattles the grill covering it - can't get around it at real high volume, and I am a bit picky, but if its not at deafening levels, it sounds great!

Last edited by GS1day; 01-30-13 at 10:55 AM. Reason: can't spell :)
Old 02-06-13, 08:38 AM
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SDGSPW
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Are you sure the sub isn't hitting the grill when pushed? The purpose of using a spacer to mount the sub on the bottom of the deck is to allow for the extra excursion an aftermarket sub has. I don't believe mounting on the top allows for enough room.
Old 02-06-13, 01:47 PM
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Advil4u
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sup guys i recently just staryed modding my gs300 and i just did this sub mod i previously had 2 12s in a box between the shock towers but i just bagged my car and took subs out any how i used a alpine type r sub it drops right in. i used black gasket maker around the ring of the sub to eliminate a bit of the rattling if it would have any ad then i used self tapping screws and i gotta say i never tought it would bump this hard without a box
Old 02-06-13, 01:56 PM
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sorry for double post but i too used a aftermarket amp ...u can buy a high/low converter box connect both l/r cires to the two stock sub wires run appropriate gage wire from battery to amp and 1 smaller wire to ignition as a remote to power it on this set up is if u want to use the stock radio
Old 02-06-13, 06:57 PM
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Jblkstr
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hey guys im about to do the same thing glad i looked at this before so i know what to do i am currently using all phoenix gold system with the stock radio and sub
Old 02-06-13, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GS1day
I put one in, and it doesn't just drop in. None do, all will require some modifications, since the stock sub has such a strange shape for its mount and the holes don't line up. Here is what I suggest, and it is what I did. Remove your stock sub, and use the template for your new sub to trace a line on the mount of your old sub. Use a dremel to cut out the hole in your old sub, basically leaving you just the old mount with a big hole in the middle. drop your new sub into the mount and mark some locations to drill some mounting holes, then screw the new sub to the old subs mount, and then drop the whole thing into your car and the old mount holes will secure your sub. when I did this, the cutting of the old sub was not that hard. The hole you want basically lines up with the edge of the old sub, and so its easy to follow your line around as you dremel out the old sub. Good luck! Again, nothing will just 'drop in'. No holes will line up, so even if a sub fits in the hole, you will have no way to secure it without drilling your rear deck and it wont sit flush. The way I did it seems to me to be the best way.
Do you have Pictures of your install?
Old 02-07-13, 07:34 AM
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SAJJAD10
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Hey guys great info,
Other than the Alpine Type R Sub, do you also need an AMP or some type of converter?

basically I need to know what things i need to buy. I have the Stock head unit and my stock sub is poped.
Old 02-07-13, 10:52 AM
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Advil4u
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@SAJJAD10 if want to use ur stock amp just replace the sub with a 10" woffer and seal with silicone between speaker ring and deck surface and wire up and ur done thats your first choice the other way to do it is buy a amp wiring kit it comes with all the wire you will need to wire an amp also you will need a high/low converter. its a lil box with for wires hanging out on one side and rca in puts on the other also you will need a 10" sub and amp of your choice the hi/low converter has 4 wires 2 wires are for left and two are for right what you will do is connect the the two negative (- right -left) together same with the positive wires join them so u will be left with 2 sets of combined wire just wire those into the sub wires tat power your oem sub
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