Car caught on fire!!!! Quick advice
10-22-12, 04:39 PM
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Car caught on fire!!!! Quick advice
Just got home from washing my car. As I'm parking, I notice smoke coming from under the hood. Open the hood to see the connector leading from the alternator to the battery on fire. I put it out quickly. The connector burnt through, so now I am wondering do I just need another connector or is this a bigger issue I need to address?
10-22-12, 04:44 PM
#3
Lead Lap
What car is it.........year, model ??
Any changes to the car.......stereo...other loads?
Might have been a simple loose connection but get it to someone who knows what they're looking at.
Neighbour lost a new (<6 months old) Mazda 6 in his driveway about 3 weeks ago.
Only good part about it is the fact it was outside & not in the garage.
Complete car melted down at the front clip. Not enough evidence to examine after the fact.
Any changes to the car.......stereo...other loads?
Might have been a simple loose connection but get it to someone who knows what they're looking at.
Neighbour lost a new (<6 months old) Mazda 6 in his driveway about 3 weeks ago.
Only good part about it is the fact it was outside & not in the garage.
Complete car melted down at the front clip. Not enough evidence to examine after the fact.
10-22-12, 04:48 PM
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I have a 98 gs300. I changed the alternator out about 2 months ago. Im thinking the connector was just old and not sealed properly. Thats the only changes in my car in the past few months. Can I just buy a new connector?
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10-22-12, 05:51 PM
#8
Lead Lap
The alternator will produce only enough current to supply the demand by the connected loads.
100A unit with a 10A load will only supply 10A until the load increases.
A loose/poor connection can cause what you described.
Loose conductor gets warm from an arcing effect. The arcing causes heat build up causing expansion of the base metals. The expansion will in turn cause more arcing............etc..
Replace the cable but make sure no damage was done at the connection points either end. I use a dab of Vaseline on all connections to battery posts. Keeps corrosion down & ensures a thorough connection.
Once the engine is running check the battery posts with a DC voltmeter or a DC setting on a multimeter. You should see +/- 14.2 - 14.4 V DC at the battery post.
Don't mess with it if you are not comfortable. Too much to risk.
100A unit with a 10A load will only supply 10A until the load increases.
A loose/poor connection can cause what you described.
Loose conductor gets warm from an arcing effect. The arcing causes heat build up causing expansion of the base metals. The expansion will in turn cause more arcing............etc..
Replace the cable but make sure no damage was done at the connection points either end. I use a dab of Vaseline on all connections to battery posts. Keeps corrosion down & ensures a thorough connection.
Once the engine is running check the battery posts with a DC voltmeter or a DC setting on a multimeter. You should see +/- 14.2 - 14.4 V DC at the battery post.
Don't mess with it if you are not comfortable. Too much to risk.
10-22-12, 06:05 PM
#9
The alternator will produce only enough current to supply the demand by the connected loads.
100A unit with a 10A load will only supply 10A until the load increases.
A loose/poor connection can cause what you described.
Loose conductor gets warm from an arcing effect. The arcing causes heat build up causing expansion of the base metals. The expansion will in turn cause more arcing............etc..
Replace the cable but make sure no damage was done at the connection points either end. I use a dab of Vaseline on all connections to battery posts. Keeps corrosion down & ensures a thorough connection.
Once the engine is running check the battery posts with a DC voltmeter or a DC setting on a multimeter. You should see +/- 14.2 - 14.4 V DC at the battery post.
Don't mess with it if you are not comfortable. Too much to risk.
100A unit with a 10A load will only supply 10A until the load increases.
A loose/poor connection can cause what you described.
Loose conductor gets warm from an arcing effect. The arcing causes heat build up causing expansion of the base metals. The expansion will in turn cause more arcing............etc..
Replace the cable but make sure no damage was done at the connection points either end. I use a dab of Vaseline on all connections to battery posts. Keeps corrosion down & ensures a thorough connection.
Once the engine is running check the battery posts with a DC voltmeter or a DC setting on a multimeter. You should see +/- 14.2 - 14.4 V DC at the battery post.
Don't mess with it if you are not comfortable. Too much to risk.
Arc = Weld
10-22-12, 06:24 PM
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I have a used alternator incase yours is damage email me for price and details. My email is illicitfords@att.net
Thanks
Thanks
10-22-12, 06:53 PM
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I really appreciate all the feedback guys. I plan on taking the car to get the alternator checked in the morning. If the alternator is fine I will just get another cable. Anybody know where I could potentially get a cable from, other than getting one made.
10-22-12, 08:49 PM
#12
Pole Position
The alternator will produce only enough current to supply the demand by the connected loads.
100A unit with a 10A load will only supply 10A until the load increases.
A loose/poor connection can cause what you described.
Loose conductor gets warm from an arcing effect. The arcing causes heat build up causing expansion of the base metals. The expansion will in turn cause more arcing............etc..
Replace the cable but make sure no damage was done at the connection points either end. I use a dab of Vaseline on all connections to battery posts. Keeps corrosion down & ensures a thorough connection.
Once the engine is running check the battery posts with a DC voltmeter or a DC setting on a multimeter. You should see +/- 14.2 - 14.4 V DC at the battery post.
Don't mess with it if you are not comfortable. Too much to risk.
100A unit with a 10A load will only supply 10A until the load increases.
A loose/poor connection can cause what you described.
Loose conductor gets warm from an arcing effect. The arcing causes heat build up causing expansion of the base metals. The expansion will in turn cause more arcing............etc..
Replace the cable but make sure no damage was done at the connection points either end. I use a dab of Vaseline on all connections to battery posts. Keeps corrosion down & ensures a thorough connection.
Once the engine is running check the battery posts with a DC voltmeter or a DC setting on a multimeter. You should see +/- 14.2 - 14.4 V DC at the battery post.
Don't mess with it if you are not comfortable. Too much to risk.
Amen to that!!! To the "T"
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