themccoy14

The next step in my build will be the removal of the factory sub in the rear deck and the addition of subs and amp in the trunk. I was just wondering if there is a remote wire to the factory Nakamichi amp that can be tapped into so that more wiring doesn't need to be ran. I would also like to know what everyone's thoughts are on running a ported setup firing up through the factory sub location. Has anyone done that and what were the results? I've searched but what I found didn't give me any definitive answers. I build systems on the side for show and competition when I lived in St. Louis but I feel like this system set up needs to be very vehicle specific to sound as nice as I would like so all of your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Ben

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

This probably isn't quite what you had in mind but here's what I did in mine. The sub is surrounded by a ring sealed to the rear deck firing through the stock opening and a hole was cut in the deck for the port. Sounds very clean, decent "up front bass" with the right crossover point, and almost eliminates trunk rattles. (Some deadening was done obviously)



I've seen a few bandpass setups firing through the stock hole, that'd be an option if you're subs are compatible and you can design one that'll sound good in the space available.

Good luck, it may take some experimentation to get exactly the sound you're looking for but it sounds like you've got the experience to get it done!

themccoy14

Thank you. I really like how clean your install turned out. I really wanted to do 2 12's in a ported box with a central port firing through the hole in the rear deck but I fear that not having a good enough seal between the port and the opening would decrease the efficiency of the setup and shaping a connection to flow between a square port and the round opening may cause some distortion as well... Also thinking about welding some light bracing through the rear metal shelf and trimming the majority of it out and just running a crazy sealed setup; enabling more of the sound to escape the trunk and actually get into the cabin. I've seen people make a new shelf out of MDF which I thought about but I want to maintain as factory of a look as possible in the cabin. Has anyone rolled lines into the rear shelf material to decrease flexibility?

cschroder

what you are looking for is a 4th order bandpass box. i built for 2 dd2512's and it sounded pretty good. there is a guy on here that built one for 2 re sx 10's and it looks quite impressive. Here is the link.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-and-pics.html


The box i built looked the same expect it was for 12's and was almost to big to fit. The max dimensions that you have to work with are 14.5 tall, 31" wide, and 27" deep.9and that is the absolute limit..i have to trim the trailing bottom edge to a 45 degree angle to get it to drop into the trunk) That give you a gross internal volume of 5.659 cuft. Keep that in mind when looking for subs. If i had it all to do over again i would probably go with some higher end 10's (like dd3510's or re xxx 10's, or skar audio vvx10's, or sundown sa-10's) instead of 12's. If you are totally sold on doing a 4th order bandpass you need subs that have a really low Fs, somewhere in the low 20's and that are most efficient in a sealed enclosure.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-and-pics.html

i have tried a few different boxes in my gs, what i have found works the best and doesn't rattle that much is to build a slot ported box that fits in the back part of the trunk and fires into the "shelf" part of the truck. With the cabin gain on that kind of setup it is very efficient. I found that most of the rattling comes from the 2 layers of sound insulation between the backseat and the trunk. If you want it to be super efficient then cut out the leather/vinyl behind the rear armrest so that you have more vent area. with the setup i have now i hit about 140bd's and i have it tuned low, that's what i like. If you need help with a box design then let me know what subs you are going to use and i will put something together for you.

As far as the remote wire, just get an amp with speaker lever inputs and automatic sensing turn on or a line out converter with auto sensing turn on/remove turn on converter, although if you are going to do subs you might as well do a new head unit, door speakers, and amp them all as well. if you watch craigslist you can get some pretty decent deals on stuff.

door speakers you should get from audioque...for 99 bucks a pair you cannot beat these:

http://www.audioque.com/AQ-TS65_p_144.html

good luck and remember to do the big3, and run 0 gauge wire to your amp, makes a huge difference.

pepboys has a good quality 0 gauge kit on sale for 99 bucks, it is lightning brand and is the best deal i have ever found.

themccoy14

Would trimming the material behind the armrest and routing a port flush mounted behind the seat allow the cabin to load up properly? If so I think that this is the route that I will end up going. This will enable me to hide pretty much everything behind a panel attached to the back of the box and essentially make the trunk just look smaller than factory.

cschroder

you cant exactly do that because of the support that runs across the back seat. if you put the port that close to the opening you will get crazy noise from the bracing.

themccoy14

Makes sense. I would reinforce everything if I did decide to do the port exiting through the arm rest but I think that making a box with a cylindrical port exiting through the factory sub location will be the easiest to do and will allow the cabin to load up properly. My wife and I just moved into an apartment so I will have to borrow my buddy's garage for all the glorious carpentry. Might take a little longer having to go across town to work on the box but at least it will be all locked up. Either going with one 12 or 2 10's in a custom enclosure. I don't know if I'll have enough room to make a box big enough to run two ported 10's in the area above the rear end and manage to have it still look hidden... BUT let the search for the right subs begin! Thanks for all the input so far guys.