Avic D3 Install in 01 GS430 non Nak ~40 pics
06-05-07, 05:23 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Avic D3 Install in 01 GS430 non Nak ~40 pics
Ok CL, here's my first write up for anything ever. Thanks to everyone who has posted any info on the site to help others. Special thanks to Lexbox for the wiring diagram. I also want to make this as newbie friendly as possible so anyone can try to do it yourself and because it was still hard to find the answers to the simple stuff like how to take stuff apart.
*I actually got pretty brief towards the end, this whole thing took waaay longer that expected and I got really tired. I probably have some mistakes or missed steps, just correct me.
Avic D3 install on 01 Lexus GS430 Pioneer System
Install with aftermarket Amp and sub. Retention of stock amp with sub not possible. (as of 5/29/07) The reason most people say is that there is a Data Bus wire that turns on the amp. (crutchfield) Also I believe the signal to the stock amp is not split left / right, but frt / rear and then amp splits it again. I really don't know anything about audio so I dunno.
1. Disassemble the center console, armrest console, Radio, climate control and Vents.
Use flat head screwdriver to carefully pry out the center piece. There are clips about where I circled, so concentrate there.
Unplug your heated seats etc if you have them. Pull the center piece up and out towards the back of the car. ASHTRAY - you can just pull that straight out. You need to unplug the cigarette light also.
Take off your shift **** by unscrewing it off. You can also move the shift **** out of park by pressing the latch in the hole upper left of the "P". Pry off the hole cover with a screw driver. This will make things a bit easier later.
Remove center vents with a screwdriver. Pry out from both sides and pull straight out. Unplug the clock and Emergency light.
Remove all the screws and bolts. The black plastic thingy on the bottom was hard and I mangled it trying to get it out. Its in junkyard heaven now, I don't think you need to keep it.
Remove Panels under steering wheel and Passenger side glove box and panels under that. Just unscrew and unbolt anything you find holding it down.
Pull the cover off the Ignition key hole. It is held just by clips. Pull up and out.
*I actually got pretty brief towards the end, this whole thing took waaay longer that expected and I got really tired. I probably have some mistakes or missed steps, just correct me.
Avic D3 install on 01 Lexus GS430 Pioneer System
Install with aftermarket Amp and sub. Retention of stock amp with sub not possible. (as of 5/29/07) The reason most people say is that there is a Data Bus wire that turns on the amp. (crutchfield) Also I believe the signal to the stock amp is not split left / right, but frt / rear and then amp splits it again. I really don't know anything about audio so I dunno.
1. Disassemble the center console, armrest console, Radio, climate control and Vents.
Use flat head screwdriver to carefully pry out the center piece. There are clips about where I circled, so concentrate there.
Unplug your heated seats etc if you have them. Pull the center piece up and out towards the back of the car. ASHTRAY - you can just pull that straight out. You need to unplug the cigarette light also.
Take off your shift **** by unscrewing it off. You can also move the shift **** out of park by pressing the latch in the hole upper left of the "P". Pry off the hole cover with a screw driver. This will make things a bit easier later.
Remove center vents with a screwdriver. Pry out from both sides and pull straight out. Unplug the clock and Emergency light.
Remove all the screws and bolts. The black plastic thingy on the bottom was hard and I mangled it trying to get it out. Its in junkyard heaven now, I don't think you need to keep it.
Remove Panels under steering wheel and Passenger side glove box and panels under that. Just unscrew and unbolt anything you find holding it down.
Pull the cover off the Ignition key hole. It is held just by clips. Pull up and out.
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Agent$mith (06-06-20)
06-05-07, 05:24 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2. Wiring the harness.
I used a Metra 70-8113 2000-up Toyota / Lexus Amp Sys. This plug will fit the stock harness plug that goes into the stock radio. This is really only used for Battery, Acc, and ground. There are RCA plugs coming out of the Metra Harness, but I didn't use them and just ended up cutting them off.
NOTE: Others have used an 87 Toyota Harness that fits at the stock amp location, shown later.
Using your wire stripper and crimper, connect the Yellow (Battery (constant power)), Red (accessory), and Black (Ground), from the Avic wire harness to the aftermarket (Metra) harness. They are the same colors on both so it’s not hard. Also note the green parking brake is grounded to the black as well as the Yellow MUTE. (Only after doing the Bypass for inputting destinations while moving).
Bypass Link http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4670
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is Purple / White on blue plug under Parking brake release.
Illumination *I think* is White on the Stock Harness or Sea Green. I really can’t remember right now. In the pic, it’s the orange from the Avic, but can’t see if its going to White or Green, and I can’t remember.
Test Light - Now is a good time to learn how to use a Test Light. You can pick on up at a hardware store or Autoparts probably. One end is a Clip that clips onto a ground, any bare metal, no paint. And the other end is a sharp prod with a screwdriver handle. Clip it to metal, and stick the sharp end into where the wire goes into the Harness. When the thing you are testing is off (ie headlights), there is no light on the tester. When you click the lights on, the tester should light up if you have the right wire. If stays on or stays off regardless of turning the light on or off, you have the wrong one. Just find any wire that will go on and off with the lights and it’ll work. Cigarette light works too. You can also use this to find a reverse light wire for your camera.
3. Wiring Speakers
For the hard part. You need to wire the speakers individually to the Avic’s wire harness. You can get to the speaker wires from the stock amp. They are the white plugs.
Tap into the wires here and connect to the wires from the D3’s harness. I used some speaker wire to tap into the cars speaker wires.
D3’s colors should be
RFrt+ Gray
RFrt- Gray / blk
LFrt+ Wht
LFrt- Wht / blk
RRear+ Violet
RRear- Violet / blk
LRear+ Grn
LRear- Grn / Blk
Get a lexus wiring diagram. I *think the wires are
RFrt+ Light Grn
RFrt- Light Blue
LFrt+ Pink
LFrt- Violet
RRear+ Red
RRear- Wht
LRear+ Blk
LRear- Yellow
Others have used a 87+ Toyota Harness here I believe. That might be an easier way to go, but I had already bought this other harness so this is what I had to do. If you get a harness that fits the plugs here, you will need to extend all the wires to the middle, which is about the same amount of work as this method.
You should now be able to test the system and make sure your speakers are all working. There is no sub, no stock amp.
I used a Metra 70-8113 2000-up Toyota / Lexus Amp Sys. This plug will fit the stock harness plug that goes into the stock radio. This is really only used for Battery, Acc, and ground. There are RCA plugs coming out of the Metra Harness, but I didn't use them and just ended up cutting them off.
NOTE: Others have used an 87 Toyota Harness that fits at the stock amp location, shown later.
Using your wire stripper and crimper, connect the Yellow (Battery (constant power)), Red (accessory), and Black (Ground), from the Avic wire harness to the aftermarket (Metra) harness. They are the same colors on both so it’s not hard. Also note the green parking brake is grounded to the black as well as the Yellow MUTE. (Only after doing the Bypass for inputting destinations while moving).
Bypass Link http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4670
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is Purple / White on blue plug under Parking brake release.
Illumination *I think* is White on the Stock Harness or Sea Green. I really can’t remember right now. In the pic, it’s the orange from the Avic, but can’t see if its going to White or Green, and I can’t remember.
Test Light - Now is a good time to learn how to use a Test Light. You can pick on up at a hardware store or Autoparts probably. One end is a Clip that clips onto a ground, any bare metal, no paint. And the other end is a sharp prod with a screwdriver handle. Clip it to metal, and stick the sharp end into where the wire goes into the Harness. When the thing you are testing is off (ie headlights), there is no light on the tester. When you click the lights on, the tester should light up if you have the right wire. If stays on or stays off regardless of turning the light on or off, you have the wrong one. Just find any wire that will go on and off with the lights and it’ll work. Cigarette light works too. You can also use this to find a reverse light wire for your camera.
3. Wiring Speakers
For the hard part. You need to wire the speakers individually to the Avic’s wire harness. You can get to the speaker wires from the stock amp. They are the white plugs.
Tap into the wires here and connect to the wires from the D3’s harness. I used some speaker wire to tap into the cars speaker wires.
D3’s colors should be
RFrt+ Gray
RFrt- Gray / blk
LFrt+ Wht
LFrt- Wht / blk
RRear+ Violet
RRear- Violet / blk
LRear+ Grn
LRear- Grn / Blk
Get a lexus wiring diagram. I *think the wires are
RFrt+ Light Grn
RFrt- Light Blue
LFrt+ Pink
LFrt- Violet
RRear+ Red
RRear- Wht
LRear+ Blk
LRear- Yellow
Others have used a 87+ Toyota Harness here I believe. That might be an easier way to go, but I had already bought this other harness so this is what I had to do. If you get a harness that fits the plugs here, you will need to extend all the wires to the middle, which is about the same amount of work as this method.
You should now be able to test the system and make sure your speakers are all working. There is no sub, no stock amp.
06-05-07, 05:26 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
4. Aftermarket sub and Amp
You will need an Amp, Sub, and Wiring kit for the Sub. I didn’t have time to go to an audio shop, so I just went to pep boys and picked this up.
You will also need about 15-20 ft of RCA cables
The main Red wire is for power and that will need some work, as you have to put the fuse in between. Fuse looks like below, and you have to take it apart.
Cut about 10-12 inches off the red wire, and strip. Slide Red Rubber cover on to wire first, then and attach an included eye hook connector. Then slide red rubber back onto the metal part. Strip the other side.
Connect the other side to one end of the Fuse terminal with an allen wrench. Make sure the Clear plastic is fitted first so it will look like this.
You will need an Amp, Sub, and Wiring kit for the Sub. I didn’t have time to go to an audio shop, so I just went to pep boys and picked this up.
You will also need about 15-20 ft of RCA cables
The main Red wire is for power and that will need some work, as you have to put the fuse in between. Fuse looks like below, and you have to take it apart.
Cut about 10-12 inches off the red wire, and strip. Slide Red Rubber cover on to wire first, then and attach an included eye hook connector. Then slide red rubber back onto the metal part. Strip the other side.
Connect the other side to one end of the Fuse terminal with an allen wrench. Make sure the Clear plastic is fitted first so it will look like this.
06-05-07, 05:26 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Do the same with one side of the remaining Red wire. The fuse is just supposed to be in line, in the middle of the red wire. Do not put fuse or screw this part together until system is all hooked up.
You will need to get the red wire all the way through the firewall and to the trunk. I ran this on the right side of the car and I went through the firewall here. I just used a screwdriver and punched a hole through the rubber fitting.
Pry up the plastic skirts cover the carpet and run the wire there.
Remove Bolt behind Rear Seat Head rest to open the back up a little.
Pull open the Back seat just enough to get the wire through.
You will need to get the red wire all the way through the firewall and to the trunk. I ran this on the right side of the car and I went through the firewall here. I just used a screwdriver and punched a hole through the rubber fitting.
Pry up the plastic skirts cover the carpet and run the wire there.
Remove Bolt behind Rear Seat Head rest to open the back up a little.
Pull open the Back seat just enough to get the wire through.
06-05-07, 05:27 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
5. On the Driver side, I ran the RCA cable, and the BLUE remote system wire. I went along the side similar to the power cable. Don’t forget the GPS Antenna, and if you have a rear camera, run those as well.
You will need to strip and complete all the ends of the wires with the kit’s hooks and attachments so you can hook up the amp.
RCAs will plug in on the otherside. The black speaker wire shown goes directly to your sub speaker. For the ground, you will need to screw it down to a metallic part of your car or trunk. I just screwed it down somewhere on the ceiling of the trunk.
My friend really did not like my crap system from my garage, so he gave me a new one.
Finish connecting the Red power cable to the Red terminal of your battery. Insert fuse, and screw the fuse housing together, and it should be powered.
Almost Done! Since your car looks like it spent the night with Boris at a chop shop, might as well run the wires and reverse wire for the rear view camera.
You will need to strip and complete all the ends of the wires with the kit’s hooks and attachments so you can hook up the amp.
RCAs will plug in on the otherside. The black speaker wire shown goes directly to your sub speaker. For the ground, you will need to screw it down to a metallic part of your car or trunk. I just screwed it down somewhere on the ceiling of the trunk.
My friend really did not like my crap system from my garage, so he gave me a new one.
Finish connecting the Red power cable to the Red terminal of your battery. Insert fuse, and screw the fuse housing together, and it should be powered.
Almost Done! Since your car looks like it spent the night with Boris at a chop shop, might as well run the wires and reverse wire for the rear view camera.
06-05-07, 05:28 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
6. Rear Camera.
Reverse Wire on the backup light is Red / Blue. Get to it by removing the carpet and covers around the reverse light, and pull the harness out.
Remove all carpet cover from trunk. Unscrew bolts holding trunk key hole and key hole cover.
Find a place for your camera if it’s not the keyhole kind and screwdown, or double sided tape. Whatever you feel comfortable with. I did not use the bracket like the picture because it was sticking out too much for the cover. I just took the bracket off and screwed it on directly to the trunk
Before putting the keyhole cover bezel back on, I cut out a hole to fit the camera under it. It still sticks out a little, but its not too bad.
Reverse Wire on the backup light is Red / Blue. Get to it by removing the carpet and covers around the reverse light, and pull the harness out.
Remove all carpet cover from trunk. Unscrew bolts holding trunk key hole and key hole cover.
Find a place for your camera if it’s not the keyhole kind and screwdown, or double sided tape. Whatever you feel comfortable with. I did not use the bracket like the picture because it was sticking out too much for the cover. I just took the bracket off and screwed it on directly to the trunk
Before putting the keyhole cover bezel back on, I cut out a hole to fit the camera under it. It still sticks out a little, but its not too bad.
06-05-07, 05:28 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
7. Ipod connector
I put the ipod in my armrest, so to take the armrest out, you need to remove the 2 bolts hidden under the cover of the main box.
Remove the bolts holding the actual armrest.
You will notice a little square on the main box that you can cut out. So I just ran the cable thru that.
Put everything all back after testing. I used the Lexus double din kit from Carson
I put the ipod in my armrest, so to take the armrest out, you need to remove the 2 bolts hidden under the cover of the main box.
Remove the bolts holding the actual armrest.
You will notice a little square on the main box that you can cut out. So I just ran the cable thru that.
Put everything all back after testing. I used the Lexus double din kit from Carson
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06-05-07, 06:01 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
You can move the ac controls. But you have to fabricate everything. The widths of the kit, ac control, dash arent the same top and bottom. You'd have to do a custom job.
thanks. this info helps alot
