SC300-T

Thanks for the reply sir....

SaiyanGS3

iTrader: (8)

Hey, I just saw your thread about these adapters. I'm going to order from his website due to him not accepting payment from ebay anymore. I just noticed that he will refund you 50% for the pictures. Did you take advantage of that yet? If so, how long did it take to get your refund.

Another quick question but my main question, I plan on putting some new Kappa Reference 6.5 2ohms shallow mount in the front and my old Alpine 6.5 4 ohms in the rear. Both are non components, just 2-way speakers, both will match factory ohms ratings, powered off my oem HU for now...my question is, are these speakers completely plug and play (remove the +/- pins from the factory speaker and slide on new speaker pins or does there have to be some splicing done? I don't know if there is some type of connector we might have to splice into to power the speakers up.

I don't want to pay someone for this if this is something I can do on my own lol!! By the look of your thread, it looks like you didn't usse any sealer around the adapter...so I guess it's not needed especially since the factory housing doesn't have any. let me know.

BTW ninja....I bought my chrome 17's from another member now. Thanks for PM'ing me about that. I totally forgot.

ninja6o4

iTrader: (6)

Regarding the wiring, the OEM speaker wire actually turns into a plug that plugs into the old speaker housing. I'll have to d/l the pics from the camera and post those up. What I did was cut the wires off just before the plug, and added some of my own wire to connect up to the spade terminals on my speakers. I don't know what OP did, can't tell from his pics.

It's a very simply job, compared to some of the stuff the guys here tackle. Then again, I've always been more apt in wiring than mechanics. It took me about an hour per side, and I took the time to deaden my door as well. Just read the DIY on door removal (found in lock actuator DIY) and have the radio wiring diagram for your car, and you're golden!

If I had to make these adapters, it would have been a full day project for me, and my Saturday is more important to me than $50 in machined plastic

np about the rims, just wanted to make sure you weren't left out in the cold

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

As for the 50% refund I got the email with the details and the $35 ain't worth my time. Too many rules to be applicable for the refund, multiple angles, before/after/during, front back upside down, dslr with pro lighting, blah blah whatever. The brackets were worth the money I paid to be done and over so I can do other **** and make more than $35. So I didn't bother, if I was to spend 2 more hours making a professional quality photo tour and diy, i would have made adapters in the first place instead of buying them. And with this seller's track record of being away so often, not responding to emails before or after the sale I was just glad I got the brackets, and wonder myself how long a refund would take if ever at all.


No orginial wiring was used for anything on the stereo, everything was ran new.

AMSMIKE

iTrader: (40)

I have the same ones from the same guy. Bought them ages ago and finally had them installed last week.

I used dynamat on the back side of the plastic so it didn't rattle against the car door and sealed better. Not sure if its necessary, but i did it anyway.

here are my pictures....Install by Tommy @ MusicBox

CodPiece

Just got these shipped to Australia...Going to take a butt load of pics during the install to get the 50% refund fo sho.

ProfesrLEX

iTrader: (2)

there is also a website http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK002. however, that is closed at the moment. cant add items to cart.


was looking to upgrade to larger speakers, in the front for sure at least. Does anyone know if I got this adapter and went with a speaker that did not have a seperate detached tweeter, would the sound quality suffer? Would the level and clarity of the high's be degraded due to not having the tweeter up in the top of the door sill by ear level? Was just thinking about the difficulty of fitting an aftermarket tweeter up there.

ninja6o4

iTrader: (6)

That is the same site. I just clicked it and I can add to cart no problem.

You are definitely going to lose SQ by keeping the tweeter down at your feet. What is difficult about fitting the tweeter in the OEM location? I haven't done it myself yet but my comps are on their way.

CodPiece

Just did a speaker install and the tweeters were by far the easiest to install.

Once you remove the mesh cover, you can see that the OEM tweeters are are attached to a little frame the holds it in position. Unscrew and remove the stock tweeters and replace with aftermarket speakers using the orginal frame. Luckily for me, my tweeters had magnets on the back so they just stick there. I could even run the wires through the stock position.

ProfesrLEX

iTrader: (2)

Im a doofus, forgot to select front or rear speaker for cart. It worked.


On another note, i went to two different stereo shops looking for advice on aftermarket door speakers and sub.amp upgrades. Both shops told me they could fit whatever size speaker in my the stock speaker housings i wanted. ?? I really dont see how this is possible. Are they smoking crack?

VIPatrick

Arent you guys afraid of soaking the membranes and Crossovers with water from the windows?

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

For my situation in particular no I'm not worried. For a couple reasons, as for the speakers the polks i used are marine certified for wet locations, so thats not an issue. The crossovers however could be mounted on the front of the bracket as well probably but I didn't check the clearance, but i only drive my car for fun it's not a daily so it doesn't see much bad weather nor does it ever sit outside overnight. There is minimal moisture that makes it into the doors if your seals are good, what does make it by will normally just flow down the glass and drip in the bottom anyway.

If ones car sits outside 24/7 and gets a lot of varying weather then u may want to consider alternate locations for the crossover

SaiyanGS3

iTrader: (8)

Received my brackets last week. Shipping was very fast. I'm not doing component, just using coaxial 2-way Infinity Reference speakers (6.5"). I will have to find a way to see if I can still use my factor tweeter along with the tweeter in the speaker. If not, I might be ok due to all of the reviews I've read calling these speakers a "little bright"... I'm going with 2-ohm speakers in the front and 4 ohm in the back to match factory specs. This might not be needed, but I will use silicone beading on the back of the brackets to help seal.

SaiyanGS3

iTrader: (8)

Wow...great question! I NEVER though of that possibility.

ninja6o4

iTrader: (6)

I'm sure they'd use some thin MDF rings or something to shrink the hole, or cut out your stock housing to make whatever size speaker fit into the stock housing. It wouldn't be pretty, that's for sure.

If you're concerned about that, you could always add a plastic or aluminum shroud along the top half of the adapter to shield the back of the speaker from any wayward raindrops. I've seen some threads about this on here as well. There's also a lot more good information over at the DIYMA forums.

For me, I'm doing the same as OP with the marine certified polks. Coincidentally, my front MM6501 comps arrived today Can't wait to put them in.