Help! Door won't open after replacing door lock actuator motor
03-13-17, 04:10 PM
#16
Really hoping that I don't have to shatter anything, but if it comes to it, I guess I will have to.
I just want to think this through first and get an understanding of the door mechanisms. So right now, I can still manually push the inside lock into it's lock position (that little button thing with the red sticker on it), but I cannot push it into the unlock position (with red side showing). This must mean that the cable is stuck and cannot move, correct? There were two cables back there, so I am assuming it's the top black one? I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong since it was working okay after I replaced the motor. I don't think the ***** on the ends of the two cables popped out, cause then that would mean that the handle and lock buttons would move freely right?
I just want to think this through first and get an understanding of the door mechanisms. So right now, I can still manually push the inside lock into it's lock position (that little button thing with the red sticker on it), but I cannot push it into the unlock position (with red side showing). This must mean that the cable is stuck and cannot move, correct? There were two cables back there, so I am assuming it's the top black one? I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong since it was working okay after I replaced the motor. I don't think the ***** on the ends of the two cables popped out, cause then that would mean that the handle and lock buttons would move freely right?
03-14-17, 06:57 AM
#17
Yep, I remember that piece. I was very careful not to break it off or anything. I made sure that it was clipped back into the backside of the door panel. That clip basically holds the black "sleeve" that the cable itself is inside of, correct? How does that jam?
03-27-17, 02:10 AM
#18
I fix actuators for people all the time. This is normal after sometime. Even if it's clipped in, the broken plastic allows the entire cable to move, rather than having some bind to allow pulling of the latch.
However, you must have you child proof lock on, the rear outer door handles pushes a metal plate when outer door handle is pulled. unless you can magically remove the door panel somehow, you're resorted to busting that cover over the handle off.
However, you must have you child proof lock on, the rear outer door handles pushes a metal plate when outer door handle is pulled. unless you can magically remove the door panel somehow, you're resorted to busting that cover over the handle off.
03-27-17, 10:33 AM
#19
I fix actuators for people all the time. This is normal after sometime. Even if it's clipped in, the broken plastic allows the entire cable to move, rather than having some bind to allow pulling of the latch.
However, you must have you child proof lock on, the rear outer door handles pushes a metal plate when outer door handle is pulled. unless you can magically remove the door panel somehow, you're resorted to busting that cover over the handle off.
However, you must have you child proof lock on, the rear outer door handles pushes a metal plate when outer door handle is pulled. unless you can magically remove the door panel somehow, you're resorted to busting that cover over the handle off.
Do I need to break the outer door handle or the inside door panel? I was thinking about cutting into the woodgrain on the inside and seeing if I can pull on the cables. That way, if I am able to open the door again, I can just replace the woodgrain piece instead of the whole panel.
My car is soooo close to being back to 100% mint/working condition. I just needed to fix these actuators, replace a cracked AC vent, and swap out my driver side leather (sliced up my fingers trying to do this so I had to stop).
04-18-17, 05:39 PM
#20
GS400 Door locks actuators replacement
I like to share my experience with replacing door locks on my 2000 GS400.
I decided to replace all my door locks actuators by purchasing after market set of 4 for all my doors.
After install rear doors, actuators worked just couple of cycles and stuck (chines junk).
Than I returned my old rear actuators and continue to replacing front actuators.
Those aftermarket actuators had hard time to fit. I had to shave some p[plastic material from white lever, because was hitting bracket.
Than I had to put 1/16" spacer under actuator to accommodate free movement of levers.
After that, my front actuators seems to work OK, but not for very long time.
Next day i discovered my car acts weird during locking and unlocking.
Every time when I unlocked my door, door locks cycled twice.
Sometime if I opened door before second cycle, my alarm has been activated.
By investigating problem I found that both front actuators did not have (apparently) internal switch call "Lock detect".
By measuring Front Left (driver side) lock actuator connector Pin#3 and Pin#4, there was no short when door has been locked.
I got very upset and removed both front actuators and returned to seller on E-bay.
My next step was to purchase just motors to replace them in my original actuators.
After my motors and pulley remover arrived i performed motors replacement.
Opening of actuators was not that hard, just very important step on beginning when you have to start make a crack by inserting box cutter knife. Than I used flat screw driver and was cracking glued area from inside out. (better if actuator is cold or frozen).
After my successful motor replacement and installation door locks in my car, another problem occurred. (why not).
My door locks functioned exactly opposite as they should work.
When I pressed Unlock, my car locked and vice versa.
By comparing Toyota (old) motor with new replacement, i discovered, that new motor rotation is CCW, but original Toyota motor rotation is CW.
This was easy fix. Just swapped motor wires inside each door door lock's connector.
Now all is working as suppose to.
I decided to replace all my door locks actuators by purchasing after market set of 4 for all my doors.
After install rear doors, actuators worked just couple of cycles and stuck (chines junk).
Than I returned my old rear actuators and continue to replacing front actuators.
Those aftermarket actuators had hard time to fit. I had to shave some p[plastic material from white lever, because was hitting bracket.
Than I had to put 1/16" spacer under actuator to accommodate free movement of levers.
After that, my front actuators seems to work OK, but not for very long time.
Next day i discovered my car acts weird during locking and unlocking.
Every time when I unlocked my door, door locks cycled twice.
Sometime if I opened door before second cycle, my alarm has been activated.
By investigating problem I found that both front actuators did not have (apparently) internal switch call "Lock detect".
By measuring Front Left (driver side) lock actuator connector Pin#3 and Pin#4, there was no short when door has been locked.
I got very upset and removed both front actuators and returned to seller on E-bay.
My next step was to purchase just motors to replace them in my original actuators.
After my motors and pulley remover arrived i performed motors replacement.
Opening of actuators was not that hard, just very important step on beginning when you have to start make a crack by inserting box cutter knife. Than I used flat screw driver and was cracking glued area from inside out. (better if actuator is cold or frozen).
After my successful motor replacement and installation door locks in my car, another problem occurred. (why not).
My door locks functioned exactly opposite as they should work.
When I pressed Unlock, my car locked and vice versa.
By comparing Toyota (old) motor with new replacement, i discovered, that new motor rotation is CCW, but original Toyota motor rotation is CW.
This was easy fix. Just swapped motor wires inside each door door lock's connector.
Now all is working as suppose to.
04-25-17, 01:38 AM
#21
I highly doubt it's the child proof lock being on, but is it possible for it to just engage itself? Because right after I replaced the motor in the actuator, it was working fine and door was opening just fine. After 2 weeks, it just stopped working completely. I don't even hear the actuator clicking or making any sort of sound inside the door shell. I can hear all the other doors though.
Do I need to break the outer door handle or the inside door panel? I was thinking about cutting into the woodgrain on the inside and seeing if I can pull on the cables. That way, if I am able to open the door again, I can just replace the woodgrain piece instead of the whole panel.
My car is soooo close to being back to 100% mint/working condition. I just needed to fix these actuators, replace a cracked AC vent, and swap out my driver side leather (sliced up my fingers trying to do this so I had to stop).
Do I need to break the outer door handle or the inside door panel? I was thinking about cutting into the woodgrain on the inside and seeing if I can pull on the cables. That way, if I am able to open the door again, I can just replace the woodgrain piece instead of the whole panel.
My car is soooo close to being back to 100% mint/working condition. I just needed to fix these actuators, replace a cracked AC vent, and swap out my driver side leather (sliced up my fingers trying to do this so I had to stop).
You need to somehow grab that cable so I'd imagine just cut that whole section away and buy another door panel to replace. Along with the lock mechanism from the donor car.
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krawfo
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