Slammed on 7-series BMW concave wheels
#422
#424
#425
Wheels:
Front 19x9 +24
Rear 19x10 +24
Tire:
Front 225/35R19
Rear 245/35R19
They are re-drill by VR Wheels in the City of Industry
Front fenders I did not touch and the rear tire I had to roll.
Lower on BC Racing Coils
Front 19x9 +24
Rear 19x10 +24
Tire:
Front 225/35R19
Rear 245/35R19
They are re-drill by VR Wheels in the City of Industry
Front fenders I did not touch and the rear tire I had to roll.
Lower on BC Racing Coils
#428
#429
i'm loving the color you chose. i wonder how these wheels would look on my ES?
#430
Thanks for all your help guys, really helped me with my setup, so heres my contribution.
Setup BMW/Borbet Style 95s
19x9 19x10 +24 all four
Redrilled by VR Wheels
Shaved Rears (would recommend shaving fronts as well) Shaved as opposed to rolled b/c i was told the lexus fenders get dimples when rolling due to the square screw mounts along the fender line for the plastic guards.
Tires:
Front: Achilles 235/35/19 (not much room to go wider, a 245 may fit, but without camber you will most definitely get wheel poke) Gave me a sliiiiight slight stretch; would have liked a little more, but a 225 really exposes the lip; way too much for my liking, but was an aggressive stretch for sure imo, so im happy with a 235/35.
Rear: Sumitomo 255/35/19 (not much room to go wider, a 265 may fit, but without camber you may get tire poke) gave the PERFECT stretch imo, nothing crazy, looks like it could have come like that factory spec.
Unknown camber specs, car needs alignment, but will probably go with -1.5 degree camber all around (if fenders allow it)
Also lowered on Tein Comfort Sport Coilovers V2s. Measurements were taken by setting the lock ring to the lowest position, and then adjusting the second ring to desired height; measuring distance from inside of lock ring to inside of second adjuster ring. NOTE: Lowest setting, i got readings of about 1.2cm, meaning when the rings were together, the distance between the insides of rings was 1.2cm. So im basically all the way down in the front and about 3/4in from all the way down in the rear.
Front: 1.5cm
Rear 2.1cm ~ about a 1.5" or so drop from stock height
After taking this for a test run (it was loaded with 4 people) NO rubbing on the rears or the front UNTIL i went over a decent sized bump. The front tire caught the lip of the fender and yanked the tab down and was scraping like crazy till i bent it back out of the way (which is why i recommend shaving the fronts as well). It damaged the plastic fender well gaurds and chewed into the tire a bit. After that, speed bumps, dips, rough road, etc no rubbing, but probably will get fronts shaved just as a precaution so that doesnt happen again.
Also one more thing, with the redrill, my stock lug nuts did not fit, because the small lip around them made it unable to fit in the bolt holes. This is what my stock lugs looked like: http://setgroupusa.com/wp-content/up...-3-525x500.jpgHope this helps!
UPDATE 7/29/15: Had my car aligned yesterday and come to find the toe was messed up on four corners, so they fixed that all nice for me. But with the current camber specs as of right now, only the FRONT DRIVER fender rubs on dips (thats the fender that got yanked on the test run so i will have to have the issue fixed asap. I have the least amount of camber my fenders will allow at my current height.
Current Camber specs:
FRONT: -2.2 degree
REAR: -1.5 degree
Also for those of you asking if the wheels feel heavy after install.. I have a GS4 i dont feel any difference in power/performance, but you folk with the GS3's may feel a bit slower just because with the larger wheels, remember your "final" drive is now a little lower esp if you upgrade from the stock 16s and you guys got a little less torque than the 1UZ guys
Setup BMW/Borbet Style 95s
19x9 19x10 +24 all four
Redrilled by VR Wheels
Shaved Rears (would recommend shaving fronts as well) Shaved as opposed to rolled b/c i was told the lexus fenders get dimples when rolling due to the square screw mounts along the fender line for the plastic guards.
Tires:
Front: Achilles 235/35/19 (not much room to go wider, a 245 may fit, but without camber you will most definitely get wheel poke) Gave me a sliiiiight slight stretch; would have liked a little more, but a 225 really exposes the lip; way too much for my liking, but was an aggressive stretch for sure imo, so im happy with a 235/35.
Rear: Sumitomo 255/35/19 (not much room to go wider, a 265 may fit, but without camber you may get tire poke) gave the PERFECT stretch imo, nothing crazy, looks like it could have come like that factory spec.
Unknown camber specs, car needs alignment, but will probably go with -1.5 degree camber all around (if fenders allow it)
Also lowered on Tein Comfort Sport Coilovers V2s. Measurements were taken by setting the lock ring to the lowest position, and then adjusting the second ring to desired height; measuring distance from inside of lock ring to inside of second adjuster ring. NOTE: Lowest setting, i got readings of about 1.2cm, meaning when the rings were together, the distance between the insides of rings was 1.2cm. So im basically all the way down in the front and about 3/4in from all the way down in the rear.
Front: 1.5cm
Rear 2.1cm ~ about a 1.5" or so drop from stock height
After taking this for a test run (it was loaded with 4 people) NO rubbing on the rears or the front UNTIL i went over a decent sized bump. The front tire caught the lip of the fender and yanked the tab down and was scraping like crazy till i bent it back out of the way (which is why i recommend shaving the fronts as well). It damaged the plastic fender well gaurds and chewed into the tire a bit. After that, speed bumps, dips, rough road, etc no rubbing, but probably will get fronts shaved just as a precaution so that doesnt happen again.
Also one more thing, with the redrill, my stock lug nuts did not fit, because the small lip around them made it unable to fit in the bolt holes. This is what my stock lugs looked like: http://setgroupusa.com/wp-content/up...-3-525x500.jpgHope this helps!
UPDATE 7/29/15: Had my car aligned yesterday and come to find the toe was messed up on four corners, so they fixed that all nice for me. But with the current camber specs as of right now, only the FRONT DRIVER fender rubs on dips (thats the fender that got yanked on the test run so i will have to have the issue fixed asap. I have the least amount of camber my fenders will allow at my current height.
Current Camber specs:
FRONT: -2.2 degree
REAR: -1.5 degree
Also for those of you asking if the wheels feel heavy after install.. I have a GS4 i dont feel any difference in power/performance, but you folk with the GS3's may feel a bit slower just because with the larger wheels, remember your "final" drive is now a little lower esp if you upgrade from the stock 16s and you guys got a little less torque than the 1UZ guys
Last edited by DreamGS4; 07-29-15 at 04:36 PM.
#431
Lead Lap
iTrader: (3)
Congrats! Looks great! There's two things you can so to get more clearance. You can go lower and that'll give you more natural negative camber or you could swap out the Achilles for a brand that runs smaller. As much as I like Achilles (ran them for years in the past 225/35 on 19x9.5 and a 245/30 on 20x10) I was unpleasantly surprised when I went from the Delinte el cheapos I had on my current set up to Achilles. The Achilles ran just a bit wider, so much so that I rubbed trying to get in and out of parking spots...nothing cool at all about having to 3 point turn in and out of parking spots lol. But congrats on the new set up nonetheless!!!
#432
Congrats! Looks great! There's two things you can so to get more clearance. You can go lower and that'll give you more natural negative camber or you could swap out the Achilles for a brand that runs smaller. As much as I like Achilles (ran them for years in the past 225/35 on 19x9.5 and a 245/30 on 20x10) I was unpleasantly surprised when I went from the Delinte el cheapos I had on my current set up to Achilles. The Achilles ran just a bit wider, so much so that I rubbed trying to get in and out of parking spots...nothing cool at all about having to 3 point turn in and out of parking spots lol. But congrats on the new set up nonetheless!!!
#433
Hey guys update here. So to address the hub cap issue, we know theres not much out there. I like the borbet idea, but thats if you can find a set, also contemplated just spray painting them black. But anyway, finally decided to go for a more stock/factory look, since my car is mildly modified.
So i found a set of 2" "L" badges aka wheel hub or horn badges on ebay for fairly cheap $15 shipped and decided to mount them on the back side of the BMW metal cap. Was going to remove the BMW cap all together but, theres a circular indent behind it that the "L" badges wouldnt have covered so had to just flip the BMW caps and mount to the back side. Also thought about going Black Pearl badges, buuut i couldnt find a set, unless i bought 4 hub caps from the stealership for about $150 and then removed the badges from the caps and remounted them on the style 95 caps. You can always paint these emblems too, but figured id like to keep them stock. So Heres what i got.
So i found a set of 2" "L" badges aka wheel hub or horn badges on ebay for fairly cheap $15 shipped and decided to mount them on the back side of the BMW metal cap. Was going to remove the BMW cap all together but, theres a circular indent behind it that the "L" badges wouldnt have covered so had to just flip the BMW caps and mount to the back side. Also thought about going Black Pearl badges, buuut i couldnt find a set, unless i bought 4 hub caps from the stealership for about $150 and then removed the badges from the caps and remounted them on the style 95 caps. You can always paint these emblems too, but figured id like to keep them stock. So Heres what i got.
#434
Hey guys update here. So to address the hub cap issue, we know theres not much out there. I like the borbet idea, but thats if you can find a set, also contemplated just spray painting them black. But anyway, finally decided to go for a more stock/factory look, since my car is mildly modified.
So i found a set of 2" "L" badges aka wheel hub or horn badges on ebay for fairly cheap $15 shipped and decided to mount them on the back side of the BMW metal cap. Was going to remove the BMW cap all together but, theres a circular indent behind it that the "L" badges wouldnt have covered so had to just flip the BMW caps and mount to the back side. Also thought about going Black Pearl badges, buuut i couldnt find a set, unless i bought 4 hub caps from the stealership for about $150 and then removed the badges from the caps and remounted them on the style 95 caps. You can always paint these emblems too, but figured id like to keep them stock. So Heres what i got.
So i found a set of 2" "L" badges aka wheel hub or horn badges on ebay for fairly cheap $15 shipped and decided to mount them on the back side of the BMW metal cap. Was going to remove the BMW cap all together but, theres a circular indent behind it that the "L" badges wouldnt have covered so had to just flip the BMW caps and mount to the back side. Also thought about going Black Pearl badges, buuut i couldnt find a set, unless i bought 4 hub caps from the stealership for about $150 and then removed the badges from the caps and remounted them on the style 95 caps. You can always paint these emblems too, but figured id like to keep them stock. So Heres what i got.