starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

So I haven't driven my GS much since I bought it. Put some miles on it to work and a few highway trips but it mostly sits in my garage. Anyway, recently I had been noticing build up of dirt and what not on the sides of the engine and then a dime sized drop here and there of oil on my garage floor.

I took the car to my family mech and immediately he told me that it wasn't my rear main -- instead my valve cover gaskets were dried up/brittle from not using the car for prolonged periods of time.

I've already got my coil packs out - most lines out of the way, etc. Got the gaskets ($40 both) and spark plug tube seal gaskets ($40) and now I'm in a bind.


I need to find out what the bolt torque sequence is as well as ft-lb/nm is for the valve cover bolts.

I have not idea of what the torque sequence is for the GS400 valve covers (1uz-fe) and I've got a 98% assumption that they're supposed to be 52 ft/lbs or 6nm.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

10-12.......

FrankT

53 inch pounds...
Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes.

Good luck.

oslouie

I don't think there is a sequence in tightening the valve cover gasket but if it makes you feel better, then start tightening the middle ones then go to the edge and cross over like an "X". Sorry if that sounds complicating but that's how I do mine. I guess the main thing is to make sure it's seated properly.

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys. Ran into some issues with my spark plug tube seals.


Q: Do my spark plug tube seals look correct?


Ans: NO, this is the INCORRECT way to place your spark plug tube seals. Learn from my lesson.

mrjaydm

iTrader: (1)

Those spark plug seals are a ***** to change, they have those tabs holding them in which is riveted into the valve cover itself. I tried to change mine and ended up making it worse than before. I say if they don't leak now, don't touch them.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

There is a chance a leak might occur around the plug seal since you've taken the cover off. I would just replace them or at least put on some Toyota FIPG around it for now.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

To change those you would need to open up the tabs one by one and get a very thin flathead screw driver and pry it up all around. Just takes patience. Since you already got them open, might as well replace them.

clos430

iTrader: (21)

I hope you didn't forget to take the half moons off the cylinder heads and resealed with f.i.p.g! Those tend to leak

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Guys those are brand new spark plug tube seals that are in the cover. I just don't know whether or not I've replaced them correctly. It seems to me that it is correct because if I install it the opposite way it pokes out too much on the cam side.

I got them for $3 each. I've already messed up 3.

I'm hoping I have them in correctly.

Also I'm going to do the half moon as well. I have the fipg. Once I have everything off and I'm reinstalling I'll post a write up.

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

Hopefully this link can help you out. I know your pain i messed up 12 spark plug tube seals rofl. For the valve cover i would recommend just hand tightening them with an extra quarter turn at the end.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/valvecover.html

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Update:

I installed the spark plug tube seals the wrong way. FML.

Will be redoing these.

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Finished this up this weekend.

Word of advice. Don't do this. lol

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

dam man sucks to hear.

what other word of advice can you share when doing this diy?

Edit:

Question, those spark plug seals... they are driving from top down right?? not from inside out?

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

I will try to get to some pics this weekend but everything is done; I didn't have the time or hands to stop and take pictures or else I would have.

Primary steps; remove the engine cover, remove the applicable hoses and screws that are holding down the engine harnesses around or about the valve covers. Remove your coil packs and note their positions, remove the harness clips from the injectors and use zip ties to hold everything in place. Remember there are lots of brittle things. Easy to break them.

First step is to get ALL of the gaskets and screws BRAND NEW so that you'll never have to do this again.

Second, never forget the FIPG and make note of where there is fipg around your head and valve cover when you remove it. There should be ZERO fipg around the spark plug tube seals on the valve cover.

Third, clean, clean, clean everything off of your head once the valve cover is removed.

Then attack the valve cover, there are tiny tabs that hold the spark plug tube seals in place on the valve cover, you'll need to note that you need a precision or small flat head screw driver and maybe an awl or something to get the tabs up a bit. Then use your screwdriver (small precision) and a pair of needle nose pliers and work the gasket out without chipping the ALUMINUM valve cover. DO NOT BREAK APART THE RIVETS. The spark plug gasket seal is what keeps the seal with your spark plug tubes -- NOT the actual aluminum valve cover. Once your pry up each tab (3 on each x 4 = 12) a bit, then just use a flat head or some other sort and a small pein hammer then use the end of said hammer and tab around the circle where the two pieces of the aluminum on the valve cover meet.

MAKE NOTE OF HOW THE SPARK PLUG TUBE SEALS are placed into the valve cover, they go with the 'lip" or bevel facing you. Once you have the tube seals in your hand you'll see what I am talking about OR you can just take a look at how the other tube seals are.

NO matter what anyone says to you, dont leave these as is because once you have new rubbery seals around the valve cover these will start to deteriorate and leak and you'll end up doing it twice.

You can try to drive the spark plug tube seals from top down but I guarantee you that they will break.

I went through around 12 spark plug tube seals because these things are SUPER delicate.

Next, reseal the journal caps toward the rear of the engine, if yours isn't leaking then I suggest you leave it. The FIPG is good and you shouldn't have to do this unless you have a catastrophic problem with your head leaking oil out of the valve cover. I left this as my mechanic told me I didn't need to do it at this time.

This took me a few days, but I dont drive the car much so I can't comment on the time frame. I got everything out slowly; but took me around 4-5 hours to get everything back completely and I also painted my valve covers back in silver.

I'm in no way a certified ASE mechanic and I don't play one, but if you want yours done I can do them for you if you're local or you ship me your valve covers.