01 L-Tuned GS300 - Steering wheel shaking on Highway at 60mph
#31
Account under Legal Action - Banned
iTrader: (2)
Guys. Not to crap on the OP but...
I have:
- Megan LP coilovers
- Replaced all front bushings with daizen, every control arm.
- Replaced all sway bar bushings both front and rear
- Replaced front inner tie rod
- Replaced front outer tie rods
- Replaced front lower ball joints
- Replaced front and rear sway bar end links
- Replaced front upper control arms
- Replaced front wheel bearings
- Replaced front/rear rotors, pads, clips, shims, caliper bolts
- Replaced front steering rack bushings
- Tightened the steering rack jam nut
- Replaced rear tod rods with adj top speed rods
- Replaced rear traction rods with adj top speed rods
- Brand new forgestar f05's (also have 17" GS/is wheels on new tires)
- Brand new lug nuts
- Brand new 275/245 tires balanced 2x by my shop
- 1 year unlim alignment, so my car is in spec.
I'm going to try rear upper adj control arms, bleed my brakes, and possibly upgrade my calipers, and do my engine/motor mounts.
If that fails, I'm goint to sell the car.
I get vibration/steering shimmy/shake only on certain roads and certain speeds.
Had my car checked and seems as if its a ghost vibrating my car.
I have:
- Megan LP coilovers
- Replaced all front bushings with daizen, every control arm.
- Replaced all sway bar bushings both front and rear
- Replaced front inner tie rod
- Replaced front outer tie rods
- Replaced front lower ball joints
- Replaced front and rear sway bar end links
- Replaced front upper control arms
- Replaced front wheel bearings
- Replaced front/rear rotors, pads, clips, shims, caliper bolts
- Replaced front steering rack bushings
- Tightened the steering rack jam nut
- Replaced rear tod rods with adj top speed rods
- Replaced rear traction rods with adj top speed rods
- Brand new forgestar f05's (also have 17" GS/is wheels on new tires)
- Brand new lug nuts
- Brand new 275/245 tires balanced 2x by my shop
- 1 year unlim alignment, so my car is in spec.
I'm going to try rear upper adj control arms, bleed my brakes, and possibly upgrade my calipers, and do my engine/motor mounts.
If that fails, I'm goint to sell the car.
I get vibration/steering shimmy/shake only on certain roads and certain speeds.
Had my car checked and seems as if its a ghost vibrating my car.
#33
Driver
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My gs300 has 150k on it and I rotated my front wheels and mounted the wheels back on to the car with a torque wrench and it fixed it, I have had this problem with other cars and it depends if the wheels have been installed with an air tool or by hand sometimes the wheels are not centered
#34
Update: I jacked it up today and found a ton of play in the upper control arm joint on the passenger side! As soon as my internet get backs up ill try to post a video (posting from phone right now). Theres no question a problem at this joint. Just not sure if this is the entire reason for the shake but I'm guessing its contributing the most. Hoping my internet comes back up tonight! I also have a video that shows how much it was shaking.
#35
update
Ok let's see if these links work.
The first one is my steering wheel shaking at 60mph:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEzkrMJwk9U
The 2nd one is the play in the control arm. PS - turn your volume on to hear the clicking it makes!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxQE-nA0zRw
Can someone confirm, do I need to replace the entire control arm assembly and is it definitely the upper control arm (V shaped part above the joint) that I would replace as opposed to the part just below the joint?
Also, does anyone know where I can find a decent control arm for less than $200? I see some cheapo's on ebay and on the internet and C.A.P. sells them for $170.
Lastly, if anyone has a DIY link for replacing this they would share, that would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
The first one is my steering wheel shaking at 60mph:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEzkrMJwk9U
The 2nd one is the play in the control arm. PS - turn your volume on to hear the clicking it makes!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxQE-nA0zRw
Can someone confirm, do I need to replace the entire control arm assembly and is it definitely the upper control arm (V shaped part above the joint) that I would replace as opposed to the part just below the joint?
Also, does anyone know where I can find a decent control arm for less than $200? I see some cheapo's on ebay and on the internet and C.A.P. sells them for $170.
Lastly, if anyone has a DIY link for replacing this they would share, that would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
Last edited by skiz88; 09-11-11 at 08:35 PM.
#36
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (22)
Guys. Not to crap on the OP but...
I have:
- Megan LP coilovers
- Replaced all front bushings with daizen, every control arm.
- Replaced all sway bar bushings both front and rear
- Replaced front inner tie rod
- Replaced front outer tie rods
- Replaced front lower ball joints
- Replaced front and rear sway bar end links
- Replaced front upper control arms
- Replaced front wheel bearings
- Replaced front/rear rotors, pads, clips, shims, caliper bolts
- Replaced front steering rack bushings
- Tightened the steering rack jam nut
- Replaced rear tod rods with adj top speed rods
- Replaced rear traction rods with adj top speed rods
- Brand new forgestar f05's (also have 17" GS/is wheels on new tires)
- Brand new lug nuts
- Brand new 275/245 tires balanced 2x by my shop
- 1 year unlim alignment, so my car is in spec.
I'm going to try rear upper adj control arms, bleed my brakes, and possibly upgrade my calipers, and do my engine/motor mounts.
If that fails, I'm goint to sell the car.
I get vibration/steering shimmy/shake only on certain roads and certain speeds.
Had my car checked and seems as if its a ghost vibrating my car.
I have:
- Megan LP coilovers
- Replaced all front bushings with daizen, every control arm.
- Replaced all sway bar bushings both front and rear
- Replaced front inner tie rod
- Replaced front outer tie rods
- Replaced front lower ball joints
- Replaced front and rear sway bar end links
- Replaced front upper control arms
- Replaced front wheel bearings
- Replaced front/rear rotors, pads, clips, shims, caliper bolts
- Replaced front steering rack bushings
- Tightened the steering rack jam nut
- Replaced rear tod rods with adj top speed rods
- Replaced rear traction rods with adj top speed rods
- Brand new forgestar f05's (also have 17" GS/is wheels on new tires)
- Brand new lug nuts
- Brand new 275/245 tires balanced 2x by my shop
- 1 year unlim alignment, so my car is in spec.
I'm going to try rear upper adj control arms, bleed my brakes, and possibly upgrade my calipers, and do my engine/motor mounts.
If that fails, I'm goint to sell the car.
I get vibration/steering shimmy/shake only on certain roads and certain speeds.
Had my car checked and seems as if its a ghost vibrating my car.
An out of calibration wheel balancer machine, wrong settings on the machine, or just simply technician error. I took it to 3 different places and the last place I went had the state-of-the-art Hunter wheel balancer and it solved my issue.
#41
Lexus Champion
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: BayArea2RockyMountains
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This thread is so repetitive.
Change your engine mounts. 3-4 people mentioned this by now. Or take it to a mechanic and get it over with. It's a safety issue that you are ignoring and still driving at high speeds. Updating us every 2-3 days with the same "still shaking at 60 but not 70" won't help us help you. There's something wrong with the car and it needs attention. Do the engine mounts, its most likely causing this major on/off shake. Not trying to crap on the thread or be rude, but just want to be sure it does t end in a horror story. Good luck to you, please fix it ASAP and not drive it daily at those speeds till then
Change your engine mounts. 3-4 people mentioned this by now. Or take it to a mechanic and get it over with. It's a safety issue that you are ignoring and still driving at high speeds. Updating us every 2-3 days with the same "still shaking at 60 but not 70" won't help us help you. There's something wrong with the car and it needs attention. Do the engine mounts, its most likely causing this major on/off shake. Not trying to crap on the thread or be rude, but just want to be sure it does t end in a horror story. Good luck to you, please fix it ASAP and not drive it daily at those speeds till then
#42
Account under Legal Action - Banned
iTrader: (2)
^ Not sure if you were replying to me or the OP. I've been chasing this issue since I got my car; when I rode home on the 20's that were on the car when I bought it there was no issue at all with the shaking, but I am now certain that things were 'hardened' within some components to make the ride more comfortable.
I felt the need to replace the parts I listed because I planned to keep the vehicle so in a way it was just trial and error to see what the issue was.
Either way, engine mounts are on their way.
I felt the need to replace the parts I listed because I planned to keep the vehicle so in a way it was just trial and error to see what the issue was.
Either way, engine mounts are on their way.
#45
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Minnesota
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Hey, so in regards to that steering wheel shake, I have a 2001 GS300 with 128k on it, got it about 2 months ago.
I had this problem pretty severely. So, since I bought it from the Lexus dealer, I had them look into the issue, and after apparently a lot of looking around and trying things, they found that it was a combination of poor tire balancing and more significantly, imbalanced wheels.
What they ended up doing was putting 10 gram weights along certain parts of the rims (on the inside of course) and retesting after each. It was tedious for them and took a while, but now its perfect. I imagine this could problem could come from a number of other things, but that is how my wheel shake was fixed.
I had this problem pretty severely. So, since I bought it from the Lexus dealer, I had them look into the issue, and after apparently a lot of looking around and trying things, they found that it was a combination of poor tire balancing and more significantly, imbalanced wheels.
What they ended up doing was putting 10 gram weights along certain parts of the rims (on the inside of course) and retesting after each. It was tedious for them and took a while, but now its perfect. I imagine this could problem could come from a number of other things, but that is how my wheel shake was fixed.