What type of Oil do you use?
06-08-11, 10:21 PM
#46
It's mostly based off of myths or he said she said kind of thing. Pennzoil is really no different than Castrol or Mobil. This "wax" that people refer to is paraffin and that ingredient shows up in practically all dino oil. Sludge is caused by inadequate OCI, or simply using the wrong oil for the car. Those who follow the necessary OCI won't have problems with sludge, even if you're using Quaker State or Pennzoil.
Mind you I had a 1988 Honda Civic that used Pennzoil throughout its whole life and the internal was still clean after 250k miles, which the car was sold then. Yes, some oil sludge more than others when going over the necessary interval, but that's not the real problem. The problem is many people neglect to change their oil on time. No one should rely on the oil to stay sludge-free. Rather, one should do proper maintenance and avoid troubles later down the road.
Mind you I had a 1988 Honda Civic that used Pennzoil throughout its whole life and the internal was still clean after 250k miles, which the car was sold then. Yes, some oil sludge more than others when going over the necessary interval, but that's not the real problem. The problem is many people neglect to change their oil on time. No one should rely on the oil to stay sludge-free. Rather, one should do proper maintenance and avoid troubles later down the road.
He's right, Robomax. Castrol GTX uses the same Group III process that everyone else uses. Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol, Shell, Quaker State, they all use Group III processes for their synthetic oils which are refined crude oils which are paraffinic. You have been given some bad information. Please don't spread it here. Can you imagine if Pennzoil was damaging engines? They would be popping off left and right. Pennzoil is the most sold oil in the world. You can say the information was given to you by the most trusted guy in the world, but that doesn't make it so.
The 2JZ-GE and 1/2/3UZ-FE both take about 5.5 quarts. Any synthetic will serve it well. The engine has been back spec'd to 5-20 oil as well. It can use just about anything. Conventional oils work well too, in fact the oils that Toyota uses are often conventional oils. The 2JZ-GE and 1UZ-FE engines are easy on oil. Be sure to use a good filter. See my thread on oil filter options here.
Last edited by tinman; 06-08-11 at 10:26 PM.
06-09-11, 07:37 AM
#48
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European Formula Castrol 0W-30 (aka German Castrol) with Toyota 90915-20004 filter. Before I used Amsoil 5W-30 which is excellent oil, but I believe GC is even better.
Last edited by ChrisK; 06-10-11 at 11:41 AM.
06-09-11, 08:18 AM
#49
+1
He's right, Robomax. Castrol GTX uses the same Group III process that everyone else uses. Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol, Shell, Quaker State, they all use Group III processes for their synthetic oils which are refined crude oils which are paraffinic. You have been given some bad information. Please don't spread it here. Can you imagine if Pennzoil was damaging engines? They would be popping off left and right. Pennzoil is the most sold oil in the world. You can say the information was given to you by the most trusted guy in the world, but that doesn't make it so.
The 2JZ-GE and 1/2/3UZ-FE both take about 5.5 quarts. Any synthetic will serve it well. The engine has been back spec'd to 5-20 oil as well. It can use just about anything. Conventional oils work well too, in fact the oils that Toyota uses are often conventional oils. The 2JZ-GE and 1UZ-FE engines are easy on oil. Be sure to use a good filter. See my thread on oil filter options here.
He's right, Robomax. Castrol GTX uses the same Group III process that everyone else uses. Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol, Shell, Quaker State, they all use Group III processes for their synthetic oils which are refined crude oils which are paraffinic. You have been given some bad information. Please don't spread it here. Can you imagine if Pennzoil was damaging engines? They would be popping off left and right. Pennzoil is the most sold oil in the world. You can say the information was given to you by the most trusted guy in the world, but that doesn't make it so.
The 2JZ-GE and 1/2/3UZ-FE both take about 5.5 quarts. Any synthetic will serve it well. The engine has been back spec'd to 5-20 oil as well. It can use just about anything. Conventional oils work well too, in fact the oils that Toyota uses are often conventional oils. The 2JZ-GE and 1UZ-FE engines are easy on oil. Be sure to use a good filter. See my thread on oil filter options here.
06-09-11, 02:30 PM
#50
Exactly! That's why I told him to educate himself because spreading info like that only makes him look bad in the end. Everything you stated was correct except Castrol GTX is dino, which isn't Group III. I have a GS3 and I will be doing my first oil change in it this weekend. Do you all change it from the top or bottom. I know the manual states to change from the bottom, but you can reach down and grab it from the top on the GS3
Last edited by tinman; 06-09-11 at 02:33 PM.
06-09-11, 05:20 PM
#51
Exactly! That's why I told him to educate himself because spreading info like that only makes him look bad in the end. Everything you stated was correct except Castrol GTX is dino, which isn't Group III. I have a GS3 and I will be doing my first oil change in it this weekend. Do you all change it from the top or bottom. I know the manual states to change from the bottom, but you can reach down and grab it from the top on the GS3
if you use an oil extractor, you can do everything from the top, so with all 4wheels on the ground you are saving time/effort. I use a heavy duty ziplock bag and some finesse with perhaps 1-2 strategic shop towels for drips to end up with zero oil drops hitting the floor.
But until you get the hang of it, you're probably going to make at least a little bit of a mess.
If you are getting under the car anyway, then you might as well get it from the bottom while you're down there.
06-09-11, 08:57 PM
#53
I have changed it from the bottom, however I have found it easier to change from the top. I use a form-a-funnel to divert the oil that comes out down to a waiting oil pan. You are correct, Castrol GTX is Group II/II+. I meant to say that other than German Castrol (GC, as mentioned by ChrisK), all their synthetic oils are group III. I should have been more clear. Thanks for crossing my t's and dotting my i's!
06-15-11, 10:29 AM
#57
depends on how you are changing the rest of your oil.
if you use an oil extractor, you can do everything from the top, so with all 4wheels on the ground you are saving time/effort. I use a heavy duty ziplock bag and some finesse with perhaps 1-2 strategic shop towels for drips to end up with zero oil drops hitting the floor.
But until you get the hang of it, you're probably going to make at least a little bit of a mess.
If you are getting under the car anyway, then you might as well get it from the bottom while you're down there.
if you use an oil extractor, you can do everything from the top, so with all 4wheels on the ground you are saving time/effort. I use a heavy duty ziplock bag and some finesse with perhaps 1-2 strategic shop towels for drips to end up with zero oil drops hitting the floor.
But until you get the hang of it, you're probably going to make at least a little bit of a mess.
If you are getting under the car anyway, then you might as well get it from the bottom while you're down there.
The diff...I will probably pay someone else to do this. I used M1 gear oil, so I don't have to worry about it for at least 50-60k...this was a very messy, smelly job. I was able to finally to unscrew the drain plug...man was that tight. Had to use all of my strength. I bought a generic diff pump from autozone and it didn't work great at all. It eventually got the oil in there but it took atleast 1hr to do this job. Next time I'll buy Amsoil and get the pump that's actually made for the bottle so it can screw on...no spill!!
