GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Did a 5 speed to my GS and has a PROBLEM! Won't Crank! need some Ideas/Suggestions.

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Old 03-29-11, 10:12 AM
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Aadaamm
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Exclamation Did a 5 speed to my GS and has a PROBLEM! Won't Crank! need some Ideas/Suggestions.

Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or ideas why it's not cranking. i gave Rick Bowers from speedtech a call and he said it could be the neutral safety switch. but it would be nice to see if there is any other things i need to double check up on thanks!!


https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-progress.html
Old 03-29-11, 10:15 AM
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first thing I thought of was the Neutral Safety switch
Old 03-29-11, 10:36 AM
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cjames235
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is it turning over and not starting? or not doing anything at all when you turn the key?
Old 03-29-11, 10:51 AM
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not cranking usually means not turning over.
Old 03-29-11, 11:23 AM
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Ceezo
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I'm throwing this out there because it happened to my buddys sister, she had the exact same thing on another car and well she went to a shop and they couldn't figure it out...so i looked at her car and found out that behind the pedal there is a plug that pushes the switch to turn the car on..well it was missing so i put in a piece of rubber tried it and it started right up...might wanna check that out just in case
Old 03-29-11, 11:59 AM
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that would be the neutral safetly switch/clutch switch. Had the same problem with my little brother's 240sx
Old 03-29-11, 01:14 PM
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Tuanville
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My friend did a 5 speed swap on his supra and I heard you have to get your ECU replaced to a 5 speed ECU too. Did you replace your ECU? That might be the problem. It's just a thought, but don't take my words for it.
Old 03-29-11, 01:45 PM
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cjames235
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Originally Posted by speedaddic
not cranking usually means not turning over.

usually it does........ but depends on who you talk to and how they use the term...... someone can say "my car doesnt crank" and it could mean either (reason for me asking)



anyways, if this is the case i would also lean towards the neutral safety switch
Old 03-29-11, 01:51 PM
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plex
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Originally Posted by Tuanville
My friend did a 5 speed swap on his supra and I heard you have to get your ECU replaced to a 5 speed ECU too. Did you replace your ECU? That might be the problem. It's just a thought, but don't take my words for it.
You heard wrong, I've run an auto ecu on my 5mt car when I had a 1j. Also there's no manual ECU for a 2GS that I know of.
Old 03-29-11, 03:05 PM
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JeffTsai
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Auto ECU can run a manual trans. Manual ECU can't run an auto.
Old 03-29-11, 04:00 PM
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speeder
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Glad to hear you got it going!

BTW, I'm not Speedtech any more, (a little name conflict with another business) changed to Mojo Performance. http://www.mojoperf.com
Old 03-29-11, 08:16 PM
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SYNSEI
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Everything grounded correctly?
Old 03-29-11, 08:31 PM
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Aadaamm
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got it to start and run but now it's at rough idle around 400-500 and sometimes bogs out. and seems to have something in the engine oil looks like theres white foam around it when i open oil cap. help please! im thinking that it's the head gasket and it has really loud ticking coming from the head.
Old 03-29-11, 08:39 PM
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SYNSEI
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Did some searching and came up with this.

There are several possible causes, including combinations of the
possibilities:

- Motor oil level is too high

- A motor oil additive is causing the foaming

- There is coolant mixed with the motor oil - check the oil for a milky
appearance. Coolant can mix with the motor oil if the head gasket leaks, if
the head is warped or cracked, or if the block is cracked. Also check for
oil mixed with the coolant.

- The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is clogged

- One or more piston rings is leaking, allowing excessive blowby in the
crankcase.
Old 03-29-11, 08:50 PM
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Have you built an engine before or was this your first one? Did you check all the tolerances and clearances when putting everything back together? Did you use a micrometer to check bearing tolerances, use a bore gauge for the rod end, then mic the crankshaft? Keep the pistons in the same order? If you put in new piston rings, did you set the end gaps properly? Also, you have to check the tolerances inside the head and make sure the lifters have correct shim clearances. This is very important especially if you want to minimize valvetrain noise. What order did you torque the head down, and how much torque(ARP headstuds spec around 80ft/lbs with their ARP moly lube)? Also, did you make sure the head/block mating surfaces were perfectly flat before bolting everything together?

There's so much stuff that you can miss on accident when building a motor and the whole thing will go kaput.

If you've built motors in the past then I'm sure you've probably checked over all that stuff. If you haven't, get a friend that's built a lot of motors to go check it out for you. I would stop running the motor asap until you get it figured out so you don't cause and serious and permanent damage to the engine.


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