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Old 07-12-14, 02:49 PM   #46
RPMGraphic
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if it's the upper pan you have to pull the motor. if it's the lower you have to at least raise the motor. i raised mine right before the studs came out isolators. it was still a tight squeeze but even after making a tool i couldn't get it. i could get them all out but couldn't start them back in. fortunate for me i have an engine hoist.

**EDIT** my car is an IS300.

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Old 07-13-14, 06:57 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by RPMGraphic View Post
if it's the upper pan you have to pull the motor. if it's the lower you have to at least raise the motor. i raised mine right before the studs came out isolators. it was still a tight squeeze but even after making a tool i couldn't get it. i could get them all out but couldn't start them back in. fortunate for me i have an engine hoist.

**EDIT** my car is an IS300.
I'm a little confused. I'm not sure which one your referring to as the upper and lower, but when I replace my shift solenoid I had to remove the transmission pan (T-IV fluid) and the engine didn't have to be pulled or lifted. Please explain.

I'm asking about the engine oil pan (5W-30 fluid).
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Old 07-13-14, 07:57 AM   #48
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2jz motors have a 2 piece oil pan. the upper pan is aluminum & attaches to the block. lower pan(sump) is steel & attaches to the upper pan. if it leaking between the upper & the block then the motor has to be pulled out. if it's leaking between the upper & lower then you just have to raise the motor some to get to the back bolts on the lower pan.
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Old 07-13-14, 09:50 AM   #49
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2jz motors have a 2 piece oil pan. the upper pan is aluminum & attaches to the block. lower pan(sump) is steel & attaches to the upper pan. if it leaking between the upper & the block then the motor has to be pulled out. if it's leaking between the upper & lower then you just have to raise the motor some to get to the back bolts on the lower pan.
Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 10-07-15, 06:20 AM   #50
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What have you guys used to raise your motor?

I am assuming a jack would be enough but where are you putting the jack to lift it?

if anyone have a pic of this that would be helpful.

Thanks
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Old 10-07-15, 07:59 AM   #51
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Anyone having some input for a pan seal replacement for a gs 430? do i also need to lift the engine to access the lwr oil pan?
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Old 10-07-15, 11:56 AM   #52
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What have you guys used to raise your motor?

I am assuming a jack would be enough but where are you putting the jack to lift it?

if anyone have a pic of this that would be helpful.

i used an engine hoist on my IS. i don't think you you will get it with a jack. only place i can see to lift it with a jack would be the crank pulley. i would use a block of wood between the jack & pulley if you try this way.

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Anyone having some input for a pan seal replacement for a gs 430? do i also need to lift the engine to access the lwr oil pan?
pretty sure you will have to raise it.
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Old 10-15-15, 02:01 AM   #53
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I unbolted the motor mounts took a 3 tone jack jack then raised the engine up on the oil pan. Don't forget to use a piece of wood to put on the jack so the weight can be evenly applied.lift the engine and unscrew the 6 back bolts on the oil pan.Be careful to not jack the car up too much because the engine will be pushing against the firewall.You don't want to break anything back there.drop the engine unscrew the rest of the bolts on the oil pan
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Old 10-15-15, 08:16 AM   #54
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I unbolted the motor mounts took a 3 tone jack jack then raised the engine up on the oil pan. Don't forget to use a piece of wood to put on the jack so the weight can be evenly applied.lift the engine and unscrew the 6 back bolts on the oil pan.Be careful to not jack the car up too much because the engine will be pushing against the firewall.You don't want to break anything back there.drop the engine unscrew the rest of the bolts on the oil pan
And... installing is the reverse, I get that much. But when you go to lift the motor to install and tighten the back bolts, do you run the risk of "squishing" the gasket and thus just causing a potential leak all over again?
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