bighogman

Here is a weird one. The left vent blows cold air and the right vents operates normally. Has codes 21 and 24. I performed automatic test and all three servo motors operate correctly. I then drilled a hole on both sides of the heater box and saw the air mix doors move when the temperate switch was moved. The volume of air seems ok. The only thing I can think of is half of the heater core is plugged or there is a restriction blocking air to the heater core.

I have some other pieces of information. The a/c filter door is missing since I had it, which is over 15000 miles. It has green antifreeze. The white lower ducts has traces of rusty water. The prior owner had an a/c compressor installed. The internals came apart. I installed another one and flushed the A/C system.

I appreciate any advice

xfea

How do you get error codes?

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

U know u can literally see the servos move from the outside, WHY would you drill a hole into the ac box? do you have any clue how expensive that thing is? cost was like 2400 bucks try replacing your drivers servo before you do anything else drastic...also i might change the thermostat/coolant and see what it does

if u would search you would already have the answer to your dead servo issue...and you could have the answers to this ? also


BTW servos DONT show on the diagnostic codes....codes 21-24 are solar/light issues probaby cause OP you did this in the garage or at night

jmg330

iTrader: (3)

this is probaly the culprit - please reply back if this fixed the issue

if you temp guage is not all the way to the half way mark that will

be the cause

bighogman

I checked the air mix servo visually - it moved. I thought the air mix door might have been broken - that is why I drilled the hole to visually check the door. I can easily reseal a small hole. The heater core is hot at both inlet and outlet. Coolant temp gauge is at the middle.

Is there any other doors before the heater core.

Perhaps I can back flush the core, change coolant and thermostat.

Thanks for any other input.

jmg330

iTrader: (3)

thats sounds like a good plan your eliminating "all coolant issues" that may be

the culprit - i still think it just the theremostat because if you have never

changed it in 150k miles well it maybe stuck which is good cause your not

overheating. why dont you change the thermostat 1st and see if that works

if not then do the other steps you plan to do anyways? keep us posted he on CL.

bighogman

I will this week. I am going snowshoeing today

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

Have the refrigerant level checked, when it gets low one side blows warmer than the other, my car did the same thing. Had the system recharged and it was back to cold all the way around.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

that's actually not true Damian....it might have worked for you (and i will explain my theory as to why in just a sec) BUT if your system is low when it circulates BOTH sides will blow warm. (i would think your probably had a clog or something stopping up part of the evaporator thus causing one side to be cool and one side to be luke warm and when they added freon it pushed the particles through thus clearing your "jam" this would be especially true if they recovered it and then recharged it)

What do i know though, i only manage a HVAC supply house

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

I didn't have any clogs, every time mine gets low I can tell because one side is considerably warmer than the other, as if the passenger had the heat halfway on and driver with max a/c. I put a gauge on it and it show's borderline levels (basically just over the line for "low", hence some cool air (but not as cold as it should be) coming out), throw a little refrigerant in it and it's back to new operation again within seconds with very cold air out of both sides. I know it sounds odd but that's what it's been every time in my case, it's also repeatable in my instance, every time it's happened it's been borderline low on refrigerant. Throw a gauge on it, you should be able to tell right away if it needs to be charged.

But.....After reading the OP's first post it seems as though he has a different problem though, mine will only blow cold on one side (with the A/C on max low, summertime for instance), he seems to be having the opposite problem, one side of his is blowing cold air when he want's it to be warm (so I'm assuming he has the heat on max). In other words, his problem is the opposite of mine, and with heat, which wouldn't matter if the refrigerant was low or not.

Either way, if anyone ever has the problem of only one side cool in the summer and your servos are working, get a gauge and check your refrigerant, it's probably borderline too low.

jmg330

iTrader: (3)

yes the gentleman is correct its the opposite case - i have the same issue

we want hot warm air from both side but for some reason it blows "cooler" on

one side hence i feel 100% its a stuck thermostat.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

if you have a constant small leak try this next time you add freon

http://www.cliplight.com/automotive/...tID=16&catID=4

i personally have used it and we sell it.....seals small leaks and should work out well for you

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

Thanks.....I'll check it out whenever I get back to driving that car. Probably driven it about 5 hours in the past year, literally, lol.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

im gonna bite my words damian....the bolded is true. i had this issue and after rechecking my servos, i put my gauges on and i was indeed low. im still curious by this as this is a closed system and if one side is cooling (since the car only has one condensor) then the other side should be cooling also, but it wasnt....i put the gauges on and it was low, recharged her and all is good again but i will keep a eye on it. if it went low from 5 years ago (when i last put some R414B in it) i seem to have a uber small leak (or i hope thats the case) and may end up using some cliplight to "seal" it if it persists

nandob

iTrader: (2)

Driver side blew cold cold passenger side not as cold ....add freon R134 fixed it....