Acceleration hesitation problem......
#31
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I had this problem too... it turned out to be a fuel issue. yeah I know it sounds crazy-I tried running a lower grade of fuel My revs spiked bt shifts and was very sluggish. After 4+ tanks of V-Power its cured it self...
#32
Racer
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update, Cleaned the MAF and the throttle body thoroughly (man those things were dirty), also cleaned out the intake pipe and changed to a new filter (the srt filter was always cleaned and re-oiled but decided to try a new autozone filter). I also reset the ecu by taking the positive terminals off the battery WHILE i was cleaning so by the time I was done I'm sure it was already reset ( I had taken the positive off before to see if it would fix the problem without cleaning the MAF and TB and it did not.)
Final Result, after putting everything back together I drove the car hard and to my surprise everything has been fixed. Hopefully this isn't a temporary fix and I have cleared the problem.
I know people have a number of write-ups (thank you cl) but I just wanted to say all I used was brand name "CRC" MAF Sensor Cleaner and Throttle Body Cleaner, two separate cans.
Final Result, after putting everything back together I drove the car hard and to my surprise everything has been fixed. Hopefully this isn't a temporary fix and I have cleared the problem.
I know people have a number of write-ups (thank you cl) but I just wanted to say all I used was brand name "CRC" MAF Sensor Cleaner and Throttle Body Cleaner, two separate cans.
#33
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I have this problem too. weird that i got it 3 months after i bought the car used.
I have been good with the premium gas, ocassionally use low grade. will try with premium gas to see if it fixes the problem.
I have been good with the premium gas, ocassionally use low grade. will try with premium gas to see if it fixes the problem.
#34
Advanced
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MAF and throttle body cleaning is good, but also use Fuel system cleaner
My thoughts (and including the pertinent DIY links) on MAF and throttle body cleaning and also that of PEA-based fuel system cleaners:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379684
Causes: Deposit build-up in the intake system and that of the engine itself (valves, combustion chamber, and fuel injectors)
Summary: Do both, and you'll be amazed in the significant power recovery--almost like driving a different car.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379684
Causes: Deposit build-up in the intake system and that of the engine itself (valves, combustion chamber, and fuel injectors)
Summary: Do both, and you'll be amazed in the significant power recovery--almost like driving a different car.
#35
Lexus Test Driver
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this is just a guess, but if you're going uphill, the car may have already switched to a low gear going high rpms and just needs a little time to either move up another gear. if it is in a low gear with low rpms, then that's just typical. these things don't gun right when you step on the gas. if you have e-shift, shift down one and you'll see your rmp shoot up and that'll kill the hesitation somewhat
#36
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Yesterday on my way to work, I experienced the biggest hesitation from the time I put my foot on the gas until the time the car actually started accelerating. I was pulling away from a stop sign..... Car took off fine and then some kid ran across the street so I hit the brakes moderately hard, but didn't exactly slam on them. As I got back on the gas the car hesitated for maybe a full two seconds and then all of a sudden, the power kicks in and the car accelerated like I went WOT. It was weird. I thought I broke something.
#37
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LIKE PANGAGS430 SAID just reset the ecu....
the way it was explained to me is that our cars have a drive by wire that adjusts to the way you drive.. i have found that for best results (no hesitation) reset the ecu every 3-6 weeks, or whenever you notice it which for me is at about a month i actually physically notice a slight lag in acceleration.
also i have noticed that our cars (gs400) has a factory tq converter set pretty low but it is still there) so when in between gears and coasting then you hit the accelerator it somehow waits for the rpm's to hit a certain level before kicking in with a lower gear based on how hard you hit the accelerator i guess...
to reset ecu just unplug battery for 30 minutes but make sure you write down your radio stations and set the seat where you want it before you unhook negative terminal on battery... very easy;
the way it was explained to me is that our cars have a drive by wire that adjusts to the way you drive.. i have found that for best results (no hesitation) reset the ecu every 3-6 weeks, or whenever you notice it which for me is at about a month i actually physically notice a slight lag in acceleration.
also i have noticed that our cars (gs400) has a factory tq converter set pretty low but it is still there) so when in between gears and coasting then you hit the accelerator it somehow waits for the rpm's to hit a certain level before kicking in with a lower gear based on how hard you hit the accelerator i guess...
to reset ecu just unplug battery for 30 minutes but make sure you write down your radio stations and set the seat where you want it before you unhook negative terminal on battery... very easy;
#40
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isnt there an ECU fuse that we can unplug instead of undoing the battery cables?
i cleaned my throttle body yesterday and the MAF sensor (but i cleaned the MAF sensor with a throttle body spray). i went to autozone and they didnt have the MAF sensor spray cleaner and thats why i bought and used the throttle body cleaner. is that bad? well after i was done, i didnt reset the ECU. now my car is idling just above 1000 RPM.
so was it bad for me using the TB cleaner to the MAF sensor?
also, does anyone know where the ECU fuse is?
thanks in advance
i cleaned my throttle body yesterday and the MAF sensor (but i cleaned the MAF sensor with a throttle body spray). i went to autozone and they didnt have the MAF sensor spray cleaner and thats why i bought and used the throttle body cleaner. is that bad? well after i was done, i didnt reset the ECU. now my car is idling just above 1000 RPM.
so was it bad for me using the TB cleaner to the MAF sensor?
also, does anyone know where the ECU fuse is?
thanks in advance
#41
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yeah i think in one of the sticky threads at the top of this 2gs forum it says which 2 fuses to pull, but i did this the first time ever that i reset my ecu and it still cleared out my radio presets and seat memory setting.. i don't have nav so i can't tell you if that reset or not, but i would suggest just doing the battery... it actually took me more time to get down there and pull out the correct fuses... also i believe the manual says which 2 fuses it is for the ecu... not sure about the cleaner stuff...
#42
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thank you for your help
well today i went to a different auto store and got me the MAF sensor cleaner and i re-sprayed MAF. and today was the first time i started the GS too. so while i was doing all that, i unplugged the + cable on the battery. let everything dry for 45 mins (ate breakfast and walked the dog). then i took it on the freeway. WOW!!!! what a difference! it felt really good. there was no hesitation. i highly recommend to do this if you havent done it or dont know the history of your vehicle. if it wasnt for you guys and CL, i wouldnt know how to do this.
THANK YOU GUYS SOOO MUCH!!!! I LOVE YOU GUYS! (no homo way )
well today i went to a different auto store and got me the MAF sensor cleaner and i re-sprayed MAF. and today was the first time i started the GS too. so while i was doing all that, i unplugged the + cable on the battery. let everything dry for 45 mins (ate breakfast and walked the dog). then i took it on the freeway. WOW!!!! what a difference! it felt really good. there was no hesitation. i highly recommend to do this if you havent done it or dont know the history of your vehicle. if it wasnt for you guys and CL, i wouldnt know how to do this.
THANK YOU GUYS SOOO MUCH!!!! I LOVE YOU GUYS! (no homo way )
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