tom steele

why did you cut your wrench's there's a trick you can use another open end to extend for more torque ill take a pick later...

krispl

Are you talking about putting a pipe over one of its 'teeth'? If so I needed a rock solid grip, that's why i went this route.

krispl

Hi Lyonkster!

YES.! I finally did it. I used your method and it worked like a charm! Thanks again!
I was doing Daizen front suspension bushings primarily and had everything taken apart there (lower control arms, knuckle and etc.) so it made it even easier. I dropped the crossmember like you did and was able to access nuts with cut wrenches and pipe for jackstand over it. Worked perfect! I had steering rack disconnected from crossmember too to avoid putting too much pressure on lines and etc and I just hang it on wires to the engine.
For others if you plan on dropping cross member do not forget to disconnect ps wire loop attached to it on the passenger side so that crossmember can go down even lower and not to damage lines. You can easily access this screw from the engine bay with few extensions.

I changed tranny mount also, changed oil and tomorrow just have to take it for alignment.

Thanks again everyone!!!

P.S. I couldnt find torque for the crossmember to body (for nuts) anywhere so I just kept playing with my torque ranch to see how tight it is before loosening it and it was anywhere form 130 to 140 foot/pound, which is what I used as a reference.

lyonkster

Alright! Good news! Score another win for man in the battle of man vs. motor mounts!

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

Bumping this thread.Are the motor mounts both the same on either side? I order a pair from sewell and want to know so i don't have the motor jacked up and find out i have one of the wrong mounts.

Here's a pic:

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Both left and right mounts are the same.


As for people having problems with the middle nut, you could have avoided it. When I did mine years ago, I unbolted the 4 nuts that holds the bracket to the engine. Its torqued to 27ftlbs so it doesn't it's not going to be tight as say a crank pulley bolt. Yes access to the bolt can be a problem, but if you got the right tools, then it should be a breeze. Impact swivel and extension helps tremendously. I got mine did in little over an hour.

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the input! So you're saying to undo the 4 bolts holding the whole bracket to the engine on both sides then undo the bottom bolt and pull the whole assembly out? What type of tools would be beneficial to have on hand during this install, since i'm going to be installing headers along with the motor mounts. I just have swivel sockets 13-21mm and standard wrenches 13-21mm. Any special tools you used?

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

tim u not get the tranny mount also....im fixing to buy my motor mounts. i already got the OEM tranny mount from sewell

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

It's right there in the big back next to the valve cover gaskets. BTW are the headers just rotting a hole in your eyes by sitting there uninstalled? Mine are.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

hahaha didnt even notice it. it blends in with the granite fairly well...

nope, put them in a box with all my other current projects. out of site out of mind as they say. damn i forgot bout the header gaskets (they not valve cover gaskets are you said) got the part # for them by any chance and how much were they?

TLcoats

iTrader: (11)

If you look closely at the first bag next to the engine mounts it says "cylinder, gasket". ie. Valve cover gasket, i did the drivers side yesterday so it wouldn't leak onto my shiny new headers.

Part number for Exhaust manifold gaskets:

17173-50021
17173-50021

$15.93 each.

When are you planing on installing the headers and motor mounts?

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

ahhhh i gotcha so your doing the valve cover gaskets also...ty for the exhaust manifold gasket part #'s

i dunno when i will do them, probably never along with all my other million projects

jonathancl

Welp, I was not successful removing my motor mounts. The transmission mount was ridiculously easy.

I dropped the crossmember while replacing my front springs, but I could not budge the drivers side top nut. I couldn't even get a wrench on the passenger side.

I do not want to let the dealer do this. Every time they have seen my car (all of twice since 2004), something comes back missing or broken.

krispl

[QUOTE=jonathancl;6277438]Welp, I was not successful removing my motor mounts. The transmission mount was ridiculously easy.

I dropped the crossmember while replacing my front springs, but I could not budge the drivers side top nut. I couldn't even get a wrench on the passenger side.

I do not want to let the dealer do this. Every time they have seen my car (all of twice since 2004), something comes back missing or broken.[/QUO


I did them when I was doing my Daizen busihings and when I had my crossmember loosened. I basically dropped it with engine obviously secured by a jack and piece of wood block. Once I lowered crossmember I had room to put 'custom' 17 wrench in there and then pipe over it for more leverage. That's it. It was a ***** though.......

lyonkster

I had the same idea at first, but I could not break loose those four bolts. They might as well have been welded to the motor. I used my impact wrench, I used a regular socket with a pipe for added leverage, and it twisted my u-joint swivel and still would not budge the bolt. So I gave up on that approach. But I agree, if you can loosen those bolts, it might be an easier option.