EN_VY

Hello guys, i have a problem with my air suspension. The relay where the compressor and my digital controller where plugged into, melted.. Since then my compressors wont kick in at all, even after I replace the relay. Surprisingly, My easy street unit still works and it still gives tank readings, when I plug in my compressor directly to 12v...

Anyways, here is my question.. How dangerous is it to have a 480c compressor connected from a distributiun block from the battery.. I bought a switch for it, which I mounted in my coin try.. To be honest, I like the look and I can now flip on the 480 when I want to .. Please take a look at pics and advice.. I am runnig 10g wire from the distribution block to a switch, and the compressor to the switch as well. How likely are the chances of the wire melting or getting too hot? I dont intend to keep the compressor runnig for more than 8 minutes, and maybe use it 4-5 times throughout the day, just to refill the tank a bit(3-4min)

Holy batman! Sorry for the pics, super low quality!

EN_VY

The culprit of all this! Now I know I have to have a fuse between compressor and relay

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Now you know why I am adamant about people using fuses with relays for lighting and everything else. They can pass up to 30A, depending on the relay type, which is a lot of current.

As for your switch, I would find some heat shrink tubing to fit over the terminals. Depending on what that switch is rated for, you may be okay, but you DEFINITELY need a fuse to the switch. What is the current draw from the compressor? It has to be pretty significant to have melted that relay, which makes me more curious about the switch's current rating. You have to make sure it is high enough to handle the compressor's requirements or you run the risk of frying everything in the circuit.

Big Mack

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

to melt the relay like that, you are definitely doing something mighty wrong. Let's use this thread to go over your wiring from the beginning.

EN_VY

Im going to get some heat shrink tubing asap.. Where should I place the fuse? closer to the compressor? to the switch? I am not sure of the power draw from the compressor.. Ill check tomm. I bought the switch from radio shack. Its labeled automotive switch. I have to check the ratings though



Well, are you talking about before? If so, pretty simple,, One wire from 12v, the other one to the compressor, and the other 2 were for my digital controller. The relay was labeled so no way of messing that up.. I have no idea why it happened..I was driving around when I start smelling smoke. I get down and think its my speaker/amp, but I then notice the compressor wont kick in.. I was driving maybe 6 months like that no problem. I Still don;t know why that happened. I was told by a friend that I needed a fuse between the relay and the compressor, so that may have been the cause.

chinogs

put a fuse from the battery to the switch. i say 25 or 30 since its a 10g wire.. make sure all ground wires are less then 2ft max. make sure its a solid 10g power wire from switch to compressor besides the splice to the compressor itself. and you should be fine. just to make sure pick up a voltage meter and check all your connections for the right amount of voltage. gl

rgarjr

iTrader: (1)

Aren't u using a pressure switch to control the compressors?

EN_VY

I am running a distribution block from the battery, and then the switch to the distribution block. Where should the fuse go? I am also running solig 10g wire, no plice anywhere but the compressor.


I was, but after the relay melted, it no longer kicks the compressor in. Im guessing that got destroyed, or part of my easy street ecu got damaged. I cant put my old pressure switch there either, because I would loose the ability to display my tanks psi.. Everything has to go throught the digital controller, even the pressure switch. They made it so that you can only use their pressure switch

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Whoa! I had to log in from my gf's phone to get back at you because this is bad. See that's why I wanted to know how you wired it to melt they relay like that. It is really dangerous as is right now.

The input wire should coming from a source that turns on when your key is turned to ACC. The compressor should have a power and ground wire seperate from what tells it to turn on and off. That signal would come from your pressure sensor that would be either on your tank or somewhere inline before your valves.

Please be careful and get this taken care of. Use your viair user manual if you can' get it yourself. Also ask online to your buddies who are always willing to help. Also, I am not sure a 10g wire is big enough for the amp draw of the 480's

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

where you have the wire connected to the switch, removed it, install fuse there then run a wire on the other side of the fuse to the switch and do the same on the compressor side. Quite simple. and BTW, thats no 10awg, thats 14awg wire maybe 12awg. but I still dont like your compressors hooked up that way (as I mentioned on facebook) and considering how much draw your compressor has, thats WAY too small of wire for that set up... mostly because the wire is so long. the longer the power wire, the less resistance. The longer the wire, the thicker it must be (not by much though of course) I personally dont like the idea of 30 amps being pulled through that long wire. Even the UAS kit comes with a 4awg distribution block for the compressor to be hooked up to.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

YES! and run the switch to the ACC line to turn it on and off (since he has no pressure switch) and still run relay for the power, acc and compressor (I think I said that right )

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

Do you have 1 or 2 compressors

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

He's running only one now.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

As has been mentioned, put the fuse before the switch. You can add a fuse in pretty easily with a looped fuse holder that is available at Radio Shack. You cut the wire, splice it in, and attach it post fuse to the switch.

As for the rating, unless you paid more than $3 for the switch, I highly doubt it is safe for running 30A through it. Those contacts are tiny, and you should absolutely ensure you are using one rated for more than the compressor(s) will draw.

And you got this magic fuse rating from where? The draw of the compressor is the determining factor, not the size of the wire. If the compressor(s) draw 20A, that's the max his fuse should be, etc., etc. I concur with you about the voltmeter, but let's set the standard with solid electrical principles for fusing.

From battery to a distro block, then to the switch, then to a distro block. This has wire fire written all over it. Fuses before the switch, as I said. What are you distributing after the switch?

You need to replace the pressure switch. Don't rig it to run and have it splode because you were trying to cut costs/corners.

I concur.

Backward on the first part. Longer = more resistance, hence the reason for larger gauge wire to overcome the current requirements. Good call on 30A being drawn through what appears to be 14ga wire. The pictures weren't very clear, so I was going to ask for more, but I would like confirmation on the size.

Yes, you got it right. Switch to relay's acc switch, then outputs from relay to compressor. Supply side (+12V) of relay MUST have a fuse - this is determined by the current draw from the compressor(s). If you are doing this, it changes the fuse requirement of the switch dramatically, too. It should be no more than 1A, since the relay will only need 300mA to turn on. This means your existing switch with the purdy little red dot will be fine, but only if you are using the relay as prescribed. If you are using it to turn on the compressor, follow the parts above.

Big Mack

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Si. if not followed, the 'purdy red dot' switch will end up like the old relay and possibly take the carpet and whatever is around the wire running to the back with it