01' GS430 to Aristo power folding mirror swap
01-27-10, 04:42 PM
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
01' GS430 to Aristo power folding mirror swap
Hey fellow 2GS CL'ers, it's been a while since I have a had a good thread with some pictures as my turbo LS400 is on hold until I get my step up transformer figured out to run my 480v tig welder. Anyways, I had been snow blowing the driveway and wanted to fold in the mirror so I didn't break it, and I managed to. The front shell happened to crack in half, almost folding in on itself. Needless to say I would need a new one.
After a few hours of scouring the web, I managed to find JZS161 power folding mirrors with switch, wiring, and speaker grills. Figuring all I needed was the shell really, I assumed they were the same, I would just use the GS430 glass on the Aristo mirror. Like everything else in life, nothing is ever THAT easy, so I will shed some light on what I learned so that I can help up the future people who want to tackle it. And if you guys knew me, it was only a matter of time until it comes apart to see how it works...
Here's the party end, the JZS161 (Aristo) mirrors, switch, and speaker grills I got for <$175. Considering a replacement from an East or West coast state for $90 or one from Wisconsin for $300, I feel pretty good about these. The paint was pretty bad, it appears as if they sprayed it with a rattler can and than cleared it, I plan on refinishing these before they go back on my ride as there are 2 months before it will leave from driveway for spring.
Now for the business end. The differences between USDM GS430 and JDM Aristo mirrors. If you need information on how to take the door panel and mirror off look here.... https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...gh-mirror.html
This was cool, there is like a little credit/parking/HOV card in the coin tray thing as well as the folding switch. I was given some words of advice from KiPod basically stating that because I don't have the Aristo door ECU, I need to power the side that folds in with 12v, as well as the side that folds out, however they need to be at different times. I don't think the switch has 12v to the open position, so when I push the button down it i only feeding 12v to one of the sides, I need to alter it... An idea that I would steal form the Germans.. (Shhhh!! don't tell anyone) would be to wire the mirrors up to fold in when I turn the key to the OFF position, and give it 12v to fold out when I turn the key to ACC/RUN. Ideas...?
Yellow: 4 phillips screws that seperate the 2 piece housing, JDM has a one piece housing so no screws.
Red: UDSM has 4 mounting locations for the lens to mount, JDM has only 2.
Blue: The pivot ball that allows the glass to tilt is larger on the USDM than the JDM, and they don't interchange.
Green: If you notice the wiring has it's differences, but either USDM is self tinting or heating, and JDM isn't, ignore the scribble..
Pink: Because the USDM has some additional feature, the wiring is a little different through out the mirror, including the connector to the door ECU.
No color: I forgot to show the differences of the lenses, they are very similar except the RH USDM says "objects in mirror may seem closer than they appear, as you clearly aren't smart enough to check for yourself..." Also it has a plastic cosmetic ring around the glass, where as the JDM seemed to be one piece or have a thin ring. The USDM glass does however fit the JDM mirror, I didn't try the JDM glass on the USDM mirror, but I am sure it works.
Yellow: The gears that drive the mirror to tilt are located in the 6 and 3 o'clock positions on the USDM, vs. 12 and 3 o'clock on the JDM.
Red: The USDM has plastic tabs to separate the mirror guts from the thin shell, where the JDM appears to use screws.
Blue: Again, the pivot socket is larger on the USDM than the JDM and won't interchange.
Green: USDM uses what appears to be plastic rivets to hold the gearing, rather than the screws in the JDM.
Pink: Notice the differences in wiring, USDM has an uncovered hinge and wiring is more noticeable, JDM little less clutter has a protected hinge, and insulation.
No color: One thing I hadn't planned for despite the above the mirror mounts, where it bolts up to the body... USDM appears to be aluminum with a plastic cover, the JDM appears to be alloy or solid aluminum, but the Aristo is definitely metal, and the 430 is differently plastic.
Another thing: The RH JDM mirror doesn't account for the blind side, so there isn't "Object in mirror maybe seem closer than they appear.", again no biggie, I planned on using the USDM glass anyways.
Blue: Notice the 2 piece housing, USDM has a split down the middle, the JDM has a solid plastic housing, the line is only a casting line, it doesn't separate.
Green: I found this weird... They both are the same exact casting numbers, I just found it a little weird, normally when things are super close, they have slightly different casting numbers, these are identical even though the entire mirror is pretty different.
More to come, any comments and suggestions are always appreciated, feel free to speak your minds and I am open to good ideas and theories.
After a few hours of scouring the web, I managed to find JZS161 power folding mirrors with switch, wiring, and speaker grills. Figuring all I needed was the shell really, I assumed they were the same, I would just use the GS430 glass on the Aristo mirror. Like everything else in life, nothing is ever THAT easy, so I will shed some light on what I learned so that I can help up the future people who want to tackle it. And if you guys knew me, it was only a matter of time until it comes apart to see how it works...
Here's the party end, the JZS161 (Aristo) mirrors, switch, and speaker grills I got for <$175. Considering a replacement from an East or West coast state for $90 or one from Wisconsin for $300, I feel pretty good about these. The paint was pretty bad, it appears as if they sprayed it with a rattler can and than cleared it, I plan on refinishing these before they go back on my ride as there are 2 months before it will leave from driveway for spring.
Now for the business end. The differences between USDM GS430 and JDM Aristo mirrors. If you need information on how to take the door panel and mirror off look here.... https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...gh-mirror.html
This was cool, there is like a little credit/parking/HOV card in the coin tray thing as well as the folding switch. I was given some words of advice from KiPod basically stating that because I don't have the Aristo door ECU, I need to power the side that folds in with 12v, as well as the side that folds out, however they need to be at different times. I don't think the switch has 12v to the open position, so when I push the button down it i only feeding 12v to one of the sides, I need to alter it... An idea that I would steal form the Germans.. (Shhhh!! don't tell anyone) would be to wire the mirrors up to fold in when I turn the key to the OFF position, and give it 12v to fold out when I turn the key to ACC/RUN. Ideas...?
Yellow: 4 phillips screws that seperate the 2 piece housing, JDM has a one piece housing so no screws.
Red: UDSM has 4 mounting locations for the lens to mount, JDM has only 2.
Blue: The pivot ball that allows the glass to tilt is larger on the USDM than the JDM, and they don't interchange.
Green: If you notice the wiring has it's differences, but either USDM is self tinting or heating, and JDM isn't, ignore the scribble..
Pink: Because the USDM has some additional feature, the wiring is a little different through out the mirror, including the connector to the door ECU.
No color: I forgot to show the differences of the lenses, they are very similar except the RH USDM says "objects in mirror may seem closer than they appear, as you clearly aren't smart enough to check for yourself..." Also it has a plastic cosmetic ring around the glass, where as the JDM seemed to be one piece or have a thin ring. The USDM glass does however fit the JDM mirror, I didn't try the JDM glass on the USDM mirror, but I am sure it works.
Yellow: The gears that drive the mirror to tilt are located in the 6 and 3 o'clock positions on the USDM, vs. 12 and 3 o'clock on the JDM.
Red: The USDM has plastic tabs to separate the mirror guts from the thin shell, where the JDM appears to use screws.
Blue: Again, the pivot socket is larger on the USDM than the JDM and won't interchange.
Green: USDM uses what appears to be plastic rivets to hold the gearing, rather than the screws in the JDM.
Pink: Notice the differences in wiring, USDM has an uncovered hinge and wiring is more noticeable, JDM little less clutter has a protected hinge, and insulation.
No color: One thing I hadn't planned for despite the above the mirror mounts, where it bolts up to the body... USDM appears to be aluminum with a plastic cover, the JDM appears to be alloy or solid aluminum, but the Aristo is definitely metal, and the 430 is differently plastic.
Another thing: The RH JDM mirror doesn't account for the blind side, so there isn't "Object in mirror maybe seem closer than they appear.", again no biggie, I planned on using the USDM glass anyways.
Blue: Notice the 2 piece housing, USDM has a split down the middle, the JDM has a solid plastic housing, the line is only a casting line, it doesn't separate.
Green: I found this weird... They both are the same exact casting numbers, I just found it a little weird, normally when things are super close, they have slightly different casting numbers, these are identical even though the entire mirror is pretty different.
More to come, any comments and suggestions are always appreciated, feel free to speak your minds and I am open to good ideas and theories.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 01-29-10 at 04:36 PM.
01-27-10, 04:43 PM
#2
Moderator
Thread Starter
Hey guys, it's been a little bit so I figured i'd do some work before spring rolls around and I have no mirrors. Andways I've been sanding the old clear and most of the silver, trying to spare the black primer. Anyways, I have found a few other things I'd like to note. One thing is that since my car is USDM so it is LHD, my mirrors and switches are JDM and they are RHD. I'm not totally sure but the sizes of the 2 are different and have different mounting points. From the looks of it the JDM mirror control won't mount or even fit in the USDM dash because of the ebrake. I'm not 100%, but something just looks slightly different. The good news is that they have the same connector and wiring.
USDM wiring. Left: taped up to harness, apparently it isn't used. Right: mirror control.
JDM wiring. Left: goes to folding switch. Middle: goes to a plastic plug, no outputs. Right: mirror control*
Middle plug, goes to nothing.
And after a rough up with 140 grit, I got the clear and most of the silver off, I decided I wasn't going crazy, just a nice rough up, bondo, re-sand, and spray.*
I figured since I was getting down to the bare bones of the thing, I decided to sand the casting numbers off as well.*
3/08/10
After stripping paint, sanding, bondo, and more sanding this is what I have... Unfortunately, I laid the first coat on the mirrors before I took a picture, however you can still see through the first layer of paint, however you can see see the mirror supports that aren't painted.
After 3 coats of 1C0 or Millennium silver, and 24 hours of drying time, this is what I have, read to wet sand and then clear it.
3/17/10
I am on spring break and I have been busting a little a$$ lately trying to get all of the vehicles we own in running conditions, all of a sudden it's 60* out. Anyways, as always, nothing goes according to plan. The JDM mirrors have 3 wires to power the motor to tilt the glass, and the USDM has 7. The good news is that there is a common red, white, and black, bad news is I have 4 wires that go no where. Back to the good news, silver has all been sprayed and wet sanded, and is going to be hit with clear tomorrow. Everything is going almost according to plan other than the whole wiring thing, I still haven't figured out how I will power the folding mechanism, and also toying around with an to put an LED in the mirror, behind the lens and connect it to the blinker to give the illusion of turn signal mirrors, if I don't like them I'll just disconnect them. One thing I will say is the JDM mirror is better is almost every single way. There is a rubber grommet that stopped water from getting into the door, the foam surrounding it, and everything is thicker and tougher with 1 exception, the lens which has auto-tint and defrost.
USDM wiring. Left: taped up to harness, apparently it isn't used. Right: mirror control.
JDM wiring. Left: goes to folding switch. Middle: goes to a plastic plug, no outputs. Right: mirror control*
Middle plug, goes to nothing.
And after a rough up with 140 grit, I got the clear and most of the silver off, I decided I wasn't going crazy, just a nice rough up, bondo, re-sand, and spray.*
I figured since I was getting down to the bare bones of the thing, I decided to sand the casting numbers off as well.*
3/08/10
After stripping paint, sanding, bondo, and more sanding this is what I have... Unfortunately, I laid the first coat on the mirrors before I took a picture, however you can still see through the first layer of paint, however you can see see the mirror supports that aren't painted.
After 3 coats of 1C0 or Millennium silver, and 24 hours of drying time, this is what I have, read to wet sand and then clear it.
3/17/10
I am on spring break and I have been busting a little a$$ lately trying to get all of the vehicles we own in running conditions, all of a sudden it's 60* out. Anyways, as always, nothing goes according to plan. The JDM mirrors have 3 wires to power the motor to tilt the glass, and the USDM has 7. The good news is that there is a common red, white, and black, bad news is I have 4 wires that go no where. Back to the good news, silver has all been sprayed and wet sanded, and is going to be hit with clear tomorrow. Everything is going almost according to plan other than the whole wiring thing, I still haven't figured out how I will power the folding mechanism, and also toying around with an to put an LED in the mirror, behind the lens and connect it to the blinker to give the illusion of turn signal mirrors, if I don't like them I'll just disconnect them. One thing I will say is the JDM mirror is better is almost every single way. There is a rubber grommet that stopped water from getting into the door, the foam surrounding it, and everything is thicker and tougher with 1 exception, the lens which has auto-tint and defrost.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 03-17-10 at 07:01 PM.
01-27-10, 06:17 PM
#6
Driver
I would check to see if those folding mirrors actually work before tryin the install. LS430's have the power folding mirror and we replace quite a few due to the folding mechanism failing. IMO the mod is cool, but the issues you could have from the install out way the benefits. How much would it suck if the mirrors failed to open, there is no manual override.
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01-27-10, 11:32 PM
#8
I was given some words of advice from KiPod basically stating that because I don't have the Aristo door ECU, I need to power the side that folds in with 12v, as well as the side that folds out, however they need to be at different times. I don't think the switch has 12v to the open position, so when I push the button down it i only feeding 12v to one of the sides, I need to alter it... An idea that I would steal form the Germans.. (Shhhh!! don't tell anyone) would be to wire the mirrors up to fold in when I turn the key to the OFF position, and give it 12v to fold out when I turn the key to ACC/RUN. Ideas...?
01-28-10, 09:30 AM
#9
Moderator
Thread Starter
If there are two inputs for feeding 12v (one for folding, another for unfolding) then the motor is requiring power to determine which direction to move. Typically, motors requiring a different power source for each direction will have a limit switch that goes to ground when the motor is in the fully opened or fully closed position. You can use that limit switch along with a few relays to rig a single-pole button to work both directions.
would like to see this work out
