Jason T

2JZ-GTE JZS161 1997 Aristo @ 127,700kms Oil pump and rod bearing replacement in vehicle

Preventative maintenance to remove sludge from engine and solve engine oil pressure rattle on cold start up due to lack of servicing using dyno oil causing engine sludge

Removing sludge from top cylinder head area to wash down sump must be removed to prevent sludge blocking oil pick up

I have tried various flush methods with limited results off comes the sump pan to remove sludge and install new oil pump while sump is removed replacing rod bearings and upgrading to ARP rod bolts

Shopping list

New Toyota oil pump part number T15100-46052 cost NZD$ 258.75
New Toyota crank shaft seal part number T90311-46001 cost NZD$ 59.14
New Toyota O ring seal to block part number T96721-24031 cost NZD$ 12.38
New Toyota O ring seal to block part number T96721-24022 cost NZD$ 11.12
New Toyota O ring seal sump to block T96721-24031 cost NZD$ 12.38

Aftermarket standard rod bearings part number CB1434 STD ROD BRG SET TOYOTA 1JZ 2JZ SSD 52mm cost NZD$ 43.63

APR Rod bolts part number ARP 203-6005 cost NZD$ 145.00

Total hard parts cost $542.40

16 hours labour cost free...Work shop quote @ $75 per hour = $1200

Info used to dismantle from complete work shop manual found here

m_em_0066, m_lu_000-4, m_lu_0006, m_lu_0012

http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/...nts/index.html

2JZ VVTi how to set cambelt via JZA80 VVTi 2JZGE timing belt replacement procedure

http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA8...20(2JZ-GE).pdf


ARP rod bolts use 7/16 12 point socket factory use 12mm 12 point
ARP torque setting is 50 ft./lbs = 67.7908975 nm using ARP lube torque and release 3 times

ft./lbs to nm http://www.convertunits.com/from/ft+lb/to/N+m


http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html

Make Rod Bolt Part No. Stretch (inches) ARP Lube (ft./lbs.)
TOYOTA 203-6005..............0074..................50 ft./lbs / 68nm


Photo # 1 On ramps secured ready to dismantle



2 Drain antifreeze remove radiator to access crank pulley bolt use starter to undo crank pulley bolt @ 320nm then discount battery



3 Remove crank pulley and cambelt covers set timing to dots 60 deg BTDC



4 Remove cambelt and tensioner remove crank timing gear



5 Remove coils and cam covers leave spark plugs in place for de sludge



Sludge due to dyno oil lack of servicing with blocked pcv valve to be washed down once oil pump and sump pan are removed



6 Secure engine bay brace drain oil



7 Remove x brace remove bolts to engine mounts disconnect steering rack union unbolt lower caster arms from body unbolt engine beam to clear sump



8 Space needed to clear sump



9 Space needed to clear sump right side mount to body



10 Space needed to clear sump left side mount to body



11 Space needed to clear sump



12 Remove lower steel sump section with pick up remove alloy section bolts



13 Remove oil pump and sump pan ready to remove sludge



Sludge removed via degreaser and tooth brush washed down using hot water via pressure sprayer then coated with diesel fuel and oil



14 New oil pump fitted air con power steer cam belt refitted



Hello crank shaft ready to replace rod bearings



Timing belt reset to rotate crank to install new rod bearings and ARP rod bolts



Sump alloy section refitted ready for baffle plate and pick up



Sump steel section refitted



Crank pulley bolt ready to torque @ 320nm

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

nice write up sir.....

3UZFTE

Agreed. Awesome. Pictures > reading.

Matt2828

NICE!

That was an intense project.

I'm also in NZ, in Auckland specifically, what about you?

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

How the car drive now? final thoughts..

Jason T

As long as this helps someone im happy

Manurewa Auckland

Well worth the effort involved to solve death rattle on start up

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

Wow, very detailed. Great reading and good links! Thanks for spending the time..

wbmx1981

Very nice write up.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

cool! ............

1jzboy121

how do i get access to the turbosupras.com website so i can get the service manual

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Were you getting rod bearing knock? If you were, it is best to remove the crankshaft to have it machined underside. If it got bad enough to create noise like that, then the crankshaft needs to be cut. Also, the ARP rod bolts you put on the rods should have the rods re-honed and resized due to the higher clamp load of the ARP bolts. It will cause the rod journal to turn into a oval shape when torqued down. What you did here may temporarily solve your noise problems, but the problems may come back again in the near future.

I'm at a engine machine shop, and doing stuff that way would never pass the QC. Then again, most people demand 100k miles from their engines as well.

CAKETOWN

iTrader: (7)

Good tips Jeff Tsai.. i was gonna say i'd do the water pump at that time as well while you're in there.

ThomasGS4

iTrader: (19)

You bumped a 4 year old thread to ask this irrelevant question? Nice.

Jason T

Current kms are 196,000kms have a minor oil leak at VVT pulley

Planing for 200,000km service shortly including new water pump front seals etc

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Vehicle crashed at 250,000 kms uneconomical to repair and replaced with GS430 UZS190 4.3 V8 !!